Metalwork project

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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I love when I get to do real goldsmithing. Don't get me wrong. I love setting diamonds, but it isn't creative.

Today and older couple came in to get new rings. Last year they had their 50th anniversary. They decided that it was time for new rings on their 51st. They asked what I could do with the oold rings, and I suggested making interlocking hearts. They loved the idea and just asked if I could save the original engraving in the rings.
This is what I made by cutting his ring in half, and hers in three pieces.
 

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It is always best to anneal it once before shaping, but on simple bends like these, I often just work the metal as-is. To anneal gold, just heat to dull red, let cool to black, and quench in water. It will be soft for a good bit of working. If it gets stiff in shaping, just re-anneal as needed. ( copper and silver work about the same)
 
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I use round nose pliers for most f these bends. On heavier bands I use a tool called ring bending pliers. They have a convex and a concave jaw mating in a "V" shape jaw. This bends the metal in a smooth curve. The layout and amount of bend is judged by eye.

Simple way to make a heart from a band;
Cut band in half ( save any engraving on one side).
Bend each half in a "J". the hook is about 1/3 of the piece. Slightly straighten the shaft of the "J" so it still has a little curve.
Place the two "J's" together and see if you like the look. Adjust curve and hook as needed.
When the look is right, file each half on a file so the ends are both filed at the same time. This will make the halves have prefect mating surfaces.
Weld ( actually it is really hard soldering/brazing) the top "V" together, adjust the tip to fit snug, and weld the tip.
Pickle and polish.
Weld on a ring and a bail.

Making wire hearts is done the same way. To make a lopsided heart ( they look prettier), make one half a tad smaller than the other and when they are mated one side will be smaller.
 
Do you need an apprentice for a few days? Lol. I really enjoy that kind of stuff, but I don't know how to start exactly.
 
Not doing apprentices now, but may be looking for one in the next year or two.

Brian,
Look into the evening and weekend classes from the City dept. of Recreation or similar. Many rec centers and other places have fun classes on Introduction to Jewelry making or similar. Some colleges or night schools have them too. These teach the basics like soldering and shaping, and touch on casting and other skills.

There are many jewelers trade schools around, and they often have one and two week introductory classes on basic jewelers skills.

You can also teach yourself fairly easily if you are that sort of person. I am completely self taught in almost every skill I do. I read books, study a bit, and practice the skills. There is a good book that I use when I used to apprentice jewelers under me. It is called "Jewelry Making for Schools, Tradesmen, Craftsmen". http://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-making-schools-tradesmen-craftsmen/dp/B0007DW9MW

That book, a small Smith/Little torch, about $100-200 in silver wire sheet and half round stock, and a few months of practice will have you making all sorts of jewelry. Just like knifemaking, you don't become Bruce Bump overnight, but you will know how he does it.
 
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