Meyerco Darrel Ralph Maxx-Q Tactical Assisted Opener

S

Sure Shot Rick

Joined
Feb 25, 2006
Messages
44
Does anyone own one of the Meyerco Darrel Ralph Maxx-Q Tactical Assisted 3-1/4" knives. How do they compare to the more expensive ones that use S30V. I’m interested in fit and finish / construction differences, such as liners and handle texturing. I know and understand about the blade steel differences but what about the grind of the blades. Do they compare favorable or not? I have ordered one. I figure for the price I’m either getting a good deal or I’ll be really disappointed. I’ll have to wait and see. In the meantime any observations anyone has would be a help to me.:o
 
Rick, There are two version of the knife out right now.
First, let us explain the “DDR-HT” tm
We have finally committed to a name for a mid tech knife company.
We will be producing semi production custom knives of higher quality than the run of the mill production knife.

We have the DDR-HT midtech knife that is MAXX Q M1-B marked DDR-HT
The first generation was the M1-A.
This knife is $229.00 - $279.00 depending on the options. This knife is USA made in my shop.
It has a hard coated aluminum frame. The handles are 3D machined.
There are two blade styles.... The radian and the Torpedo Drop point Bowie.
The liner is titanium .095 thick like a frame lock.
They are assisted or Manual opening. Every part on these knives, accept the screws and clip are made in our shop.

Meyerco has brought out a new production version of The MAXX Q M1A knife.
Is has a 3D machined G10 handle. The handle is just like the prior version of the Mid Tech that we made. The blade steel is AUS 8 or Equal. The machining and Fit-finish is very good on this knife. They only come in the radian blade style, and a best wedge style. The assist is fast and very solid. This is one of the first Meyerco knives with this level of quality. When we started working with together, the idea was to bring the quality and name to a higher level. They have held up there production promises as for the quality side. The liner is thick .075 thick stainless. The knife locks up like it should!
Other new products you may want to look at are the Dirk Pinkerton knife line. Very cool small hideout designs. These are available now.
If you cannot find these knives, please go to the web site…. Meyerco.com and look them up.
If you cannot find them, still call Meyerco and ask for Angie.
She will get you what you need.
There are a few designs from Greg Lightfoot and Kirby Lambert coming that will impress.
There is a Kirby Lambert folder is a totally sweet offering.
They will be out soon.
Randall King has a new assited opener out and several autos with Meyerco.
Brent Beshara has a few REAL DEAL tactical tools that are for police and military.
Anyway I hope I didn’t forget anyone..... Look.
 
Thanks so much for the update Darrel - I'll be sure to get on a mid-tech drop/torpedo.

Thanks again,:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Gibby
 
Wow that was just what I was interested finding out. You really hit the nail on the head. I have another question I think you could help me withif you would be so kind. I have an addiction when it comes to purchasing new knives. Lately I have had to scale back on what I can spend on Tactical folders and have been purchasing knives from Benchmade, Spyderco, Buck, and now Myerco. I have been buying their recent models made in China. They all seem to be excellent in their fit and finish and use very good materials. They all have very heavy solid Stainless Steel liners. I have gone for the less expensive models over the past year due to the economy and having my income drastically reduced and a new bug up my but over Great Eastern slip joints. I have a thing for times past like Fedoras, pocket watches, fountain pens, flint locks, traditional / primitive archery, and Cowboy action shooting and now a new fixation on more traditional knives like I would expect to find among my Uncle’s, Grandfather’s or an old west cowboy’s things.

Back to the less expensive Tactical folders. I really like each and every one I have purchased. They all have one thing I really want to alter. I want to drill holes through the liners to lighten them. They would all be the cat’s - _ _ _ if I could do this. I have built many 1911 pistols for IPSC and several flint lock rifles and pistols but I can not get a store bought drill bit through one of these liners. They all just burn no matter the speed, pressure, or use of machining oil. What bits do I need and where can I get them? I have a Brownells catalog but need guidance in selection the necessary bits.

I’m really thankful for the information you have already given to my initial post.
 
Whoa..nothing like a reply from the man himself...

Meyerco is one of the worst websites out there.
 
followed this fellow since 1980. ralph is a great inventor & a straight shooter.as far as i know he has never been a sell out to any company or investor.
 
I ordered a Maxx-Q from Knife Center the other day, should be getting it in soon. I have been looking at this knife for some time, just a really cool design, can't wait to get it in hand.
 
i also just ordered two of them, a black one and a satin one, cant wait to check them out, ill post a review once i get them
 
ok, so i received the meyerco maxx-q knives i ordered. i have to say im very pleased with them. i didnt know what to expect from meyerco, but they did a good job on these ddr knives. i payed about $35 or so for each one, and inmop the F&F is pretty good. both of mine lock up perfectly, no play at all. the blades are nice and thick and so is the liner. the design is real nice, feels great in the hand. the assist action works fine. i highly recommend this knife, its a great deal for the price. it looks like meyerco is really trying to elevate their game, i really like the direction they are going and i cant wait to see what other ddr collaborations and other knives they put out.

the only complaint i have is the the finger guard/flipper, its a bit rough on the index finger when holding the knife, the midtech version seems to have completely smooth ones which i would have preferred.

i do not have a cam so i have no pics but i found these online which are decent

0910maxxqblack01.jpg



0910maxxq011.jpg
 
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Sure Shot Rick said:
Wow that was just what I was interested finding out. You really hit the nail on the head. I have another question I think you could help me withif you would be so kind. I have an addiction when it comes to purchasing new knives. Lately I have had to scale back on what I can spend on Tactical folders and have been purchasing knives from Benchmade, Spyderco, Buck, and now Myerco. I have been buying their recent models made in China. They all seem to be excellent in their fit and finish and use very good materials. They all have very heavy solid Stainless Steel liners. I have gone for the less expensive models over the past year due to the economy and having my income drastically reduced and a new bug up my but over Great Eastern slip joints. I have a thing for times past like Fedoras, pocket watches, fountain pens, flint locks, traditional / primitive archery, and Cowboy action shooting and now a new fixation on more traditional knives like I would expect to find among my Uncle’s, Grandfather’s or an old west cowboy’s things.

Back to the less expensive Tactical folders. I really like each and every one I have purchased. They all have one thing I really want to alter. I want to drill holes through the liners to lighten them. They would all be the cat’s - _ _ _ if I could do this. I have built many 1911 pistols for IPSC and several flint lock rifles and pistols but I can not get a store bought drill bit through one of these liners. They all just burn no matter the speed, pressure, or use of machining oil. What bits do I need and where can I get them? I have a Brownells catalog but need guidance in selection the necessary bits.

I’m really thankful for the information you have already given to my initial post.
Click to expand...



I am NOT Darrel Ralph:) But I think I can answer your question...somewhat. Through hardened stainless it will take a carbide bit. Carbide bits are EXPENSIVE. They are also brittle and you have to be careful not to break them when using.
 
wow they have been putting out counterfeits of these for about 2 years in china be careful the first ones had steal handles a frame lock and were labled smith and wesson (i have to admit to buying one thinking it was a real s&w knife) but the latter ones started showing up with the ddr markings. then the handles started changing to look more like this.

Anyway be careful when buying this one the fakes were out before they started selling it in the usa.

oh as to the blade shape i have found it is the best knife in the world for tropical fruit. for example the front edge is perfect for cutting the meat out of a coconut that has been cracked in half or making a shallow cut in some thicker skinned fruit so you can take the skin off in one or 2 big peices and the recurve part is perfect for pealing sugar cane, cutting the vines holding a bunch of bananas.
 
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