micarta clear coat

rogerxd45

rogerxd45

Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
271
so im almost done with the final sanding of the micarta i made and mounted to my knife blank and i would like it to have a nice glossy finish
i plan on sanding the micarta to 1200 grit but after that what should i use as a clear coat which im sure will require sanding with a finer grit and re-coating but i figured with the vast knowledge here i should ask instead of just randomly guessing

or after i sand it with a really fine grit do i just take to to a buffing wheel and forgo the clear coat?

and by the way you guys and gals have been a great help with making the micarta and the entire process so i just wanted to say thanks

and of course i will load pics when its finished
 
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Is it Paper, Linen or Canvas Micarta? It'll make a difference on what type of finish you can achieve .
 
Typically micarta does not have a finish applied, if you want a glossy finish paper is probably your best bet, sand to 1000 and buff. Linen will also take a good finish. Canvas is a bit rough and so does not polish that well, but with sanding and application of some oil based finish such as tru oilm tung oil, teak oil.. etc.. it can be pretty nice. I dont see a reason you cannot apply a gloss finish except knife handle have quite a bit of wear and those finishes will wear through.
 
Sand it as slick as you think you need, then add a coat of Teak oil. Teak oil helps to seal the fibers. Put it on liberally, let it soak in for about 20 minutes, and wipe of the excess. Let that set for about 24 hours, then take a piece of cloth from some old jeans or something and burnish until you get the luster you are seeking.

As the handle is used, it will get "slicker".

Wouldn't recommend a high gloss polyurethane, lacquer, or many of the instant gratification clears that are available.

Just my $.02.

Robert
 
ive noticed if i rub it on my jeans a little after just the 500 grit it does have a bit of a shine to it. thanks guys
 
also i dont have a full size buffing wheel, will the felt wheel on a dremel work? if so should i use the large or small and fast or slow?
 
Don't get the micarta too hot with the buffer, it can discolor it. I don't know how they do it, but Bark River has lots of "polished" micarta, or gloss finishes. I have several and they are durable.
Here's the stock pic of a machete handle in canvas micarta..
Natural_Canvasbarktario.jpg


And another from a different angle,
necklaceanddog039.jpg
 
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Ive put permalyn gun stock on sanded micarta and polished it up real well and super durable.
 
I've noticed that after wet sanding to 1000 or 2000 grit, Flitz plastic polish can improve the looks of micarta, especially where the linen or canvas is NOT.

- Paul Meske
 
Linen AND canvas always polish very nicely for me. I typically take AT LEAST to 220 and then buff with med to fine compound. Throw a little oil on and BAM!

Keep it cool though. It may discolor.
 
Canvas micarta (or G10 for that matter) will readily finish to a fine, smooth glossy look and feel without buffing. When that's what a client wants, I just work my up through the grits to 1000, just as I would do on steel. That is almost certainly overkill for the micarta/G10, but it helps any metal hardware look clean and crisp.

I suppose that buffing any surface would get it shinier, but I haven't been asked, nor have I volunteered to do it.

Various oils look pretty on synthetic materials, but I remain thoroughly unconvinced that they last or do any good in the long run.

I do not understand why a person would buff a sub-1000-grit finish on anything except a working edge, where the buffing process is only meant to clean off any burrs; shiny scratches are like lipstick on a pig. But that's just me.
 
Micarta at 600 grit buffs nicely. It's not as hard as steel, so it polishes eaier.
 
This red linen micarta was sanded to 400 grit then buffed.
 

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I don't have a buffer and using the Flitz polish gives me the shine without the buffer.

- Paul Meske
 
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