Micarta Handles

[InquisitorLord]

I recently received my BK10 LE and was under the impression that the micarta grips were made of linen. That is what is stated on my invoice. I have seen many other references to them being canvas. Which is correct? IIRC someone said that the canvas has a slight edge in durability over linen which has a slight edge over paper of the types of micarta. What would be the best way to "fit" the handles to my knife a little better, paper or files? They stand a little proud in a few spots and if I end up keeping it I see these as becoming hot spots during use. What grit level will be adequate for quick removal and then which for touch ups and smoothing? I don't want to make a profession of reshaping grips but I don't want it to look crappy either. Thanks in advance!

 

[Moosez45]

Pretty sure its canvas. I never really asked though, to be honest.

I sand mine, for a perfect fit. I buy rolls of emory cloth in 20' rolls, 200gt, and I clamp the blade in a vice, and keep the contours when I sand, by "wrapping" the cloth around and using a sawing motion.

Moose

 

[Guyon]

Looks and feels like canvas to me too.
I have Busses in canvas, linen, and paper micartas. Canvas is the more durable workhorse.
I'd start with sandpaper and then, if that don't float your boat, go to files.
I smoothed the "proud" spots on my BK-10 micarta with just simple hand sanding.

 

[Bladite]

linen fibers aka flax... is VERY strong, yet very fine, and smooth.

canvas can be several different fibers. traditionally hemp, which can be very strong too, but not as fine as linen, but these days canvas can also be cotton (not as strong), or even linen ;> go figure.

the main difference i see in handles is that linen micarta tends to be polished to be so smooth, as to be nearly like stone, and thus slippery. can be fixed with some scotch bright buffing.

canvas tends to have thicker strands of material, whatever it is, and isn't smoothed as much. it can take a high polish, but then you loose some grip again.

as long as the resins are good, and stable, and everything cured well, both of them should be nearly impervious to "stuff" for a long long time.

imho :>

 

[InquisitorLord]

Thanks guys! Now what do you think about value? Will it affect the value too much if I just shape them to "fit" better? I am still not sure about keeping this one and don't want to change anything that will affect the resale just yet. Obviously if a poor job was done that will affect it negatively but if the job was done properly without scuffing the steel or altering the slabs too much...

 

[Bladite]

what is value?

 

[Moosez45]

Thanks guys! Now what do you think about value? Will it affect the value too much if I just shape them to "fit" better? I am still not sure about keeping this one and don't want to change anything that will affect the resale just yet. Obviously if a poor job was done that will affect it negatively but if the job was done properly without scuffing the steel or altering the slabs too much...

Anything you do it, that changes the "factory" way it came, affects price. If you are thinking resale, leave it along, slap some RIG grease on the blade and forget about it for a few years.

Moose

 

[BRL]

I hit my LEBK10 micarta scales with files first, then sandpaper. Used a round file and it did quick work of cutting down the ridges.

 

[Guyon]

Value.

 

[InquisitorLord]

If I keep it I am going to use it. If I'm not going to use it I'm not going to keep it. I will sit on it for now, until I am sure.
I was thinking earlier and if I am gonna tweak the handles I might hit them with my WSKTS...