Micarta making: got a few questions

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Feb 8, 2013
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Hey guys, i've got some questions about making micarta

i so far have made 2 batches, both black denim

the first batch i made ended up being un-even due to having no experience making it, my second batch went a lot better (un-tell my neighbor invited himself into the shop and proceed to have a rather one sided conversation with me as i was clamping things together)

i fixed the unevenness by cutting some 1/2" metal stock to put on each end, between the pieces of channel i've been using for the press, that way i can clamp the 17 layers of denim that are 1 1/2" wide by 12" long down to 1/2" without having to measure the distance between the channel


Here is my first question:

i have been pressing the micarta about 1/4"
17 layers of denim (without epoxy) is a little over 3/4"

Am i pressing it to much or to little??


My second question is, what do you guys put on your finished micarta?
i don't know if a buddy of mine who also just started making knives, is blowing smoke up my ass but he said he have some stuff he's been putting on the micarta he's been making

i googled it too double check but i can't find any info about it.


Thanks in advance!
 
You know you can buy commercially made, real Micarta, don't you?
Once the laminate is finished, it is sanded and polished. It requires nothing else.
 
I've tried to make Micarta several time with NO luck. It always looked dingy and I could never get a straight slab. Bill is right, its cheaper to buy professionally made Micarta and it looks much better than any homemade stuff I have seen. There is a guy on the forums who makes Micarta in various colors and materials (such as burlap) which looks awesome. I think the secret is in the resin but the proper resin to use is about $50.00 a gallon plus expensive shipping; I guess because its considered a hazardous material. If you were going to make tons of Micarta to resell it might be worth it but for me I find it cheaper to just order a few scales at a time from a knife supply store. I have even got some in the clearance section and save them or later projects.
 
What Bill said. Black canvas micarta is widely available and inexpensive. I can just about guarantee you've already spent more on epoxy than a sheet of real micarta would cost, never mind the time and cloth. I've looked into it some and just can't justify the extra work and expense. When I can't get the color I want in micarta, I just get G10 instead (which I like better anyway for various reasons).

Having said all that, there are people around here who've made some pretty cool homemade "micarta" with good results, and I'm sure they'll chime in.
 
Hey guys, i've got some questions about making micarta

i so far have made 2 batches, both black denim

the first batch i made ended up being un-even due to having no experience making it, my second batch went a lot better (un-tell my neighbor invited himself into the shop and proceed to have a rather one sided conversation with me as i was clamping things together)

i fixed the unevenness by cutting some 1/2" metal stock to put on each end, between the pieces of channel i've been using for the press, that way i can clamp the 17 layers of denim that are 1 1/2" wide by 12" long down to 1/2" without having to measure the distance between the channel


Here is my first question:

i have been pressing the micarta about 1/4"
17 layers of denim (without epoxy) is a little over 3/4"

Am i pressing it to much or to little??


My second question is, what do you guys put on your finished micarta?
i don't know if a buddy of mine who also just started making knives, is blowing smoke up my ass but he said he have some stuff he's been putting on the micarta he's been making

i googled it too double check but i can't find any info about it.


Thanks in advance!

#1: Denim, and canvas are easy. Measure a layer with calipers and divide into your desired thickness. So for 3/8 thick .375" / .015" = 25 layer. That will get you close. Denim and canvas typical thicknesses are from .012" to .020" Other materials are problematic (eg felt, coffee bags)

#2 Nothing.
 
You know you can buy commercially made, real Micarta, don't you?
Once the laminate is finished, it is sanded and polished. It requires nothing else.

What Bill said. Black canvas micarta is widely available and inexpensive. I can just about guarantee you've already spent more on epoxy than a sheet of real micarta would cost, never mind the time and cloth. I've looked into it some and just can't justify the extra work and expense. When I can't get the color I want in micarta, I just get G10 instead (which I like better anyway for various reasons).

Having said all that, there are people around here who've made some pretty cool homemade "micarta" with good results, and I'm sure they'll chime in.

Thanks guys. I have found black a waste of time for me. I can't compete with the common. buy from the pros ;) You don't want this mess in your shop. Only a glutton for punishment would ever consider making this stuff:D

I've tried to make Micarta several time with NO luck. It always looked dingy and I could never get a straight slab. Bill is right, its cheaper to buy professionally made Micarta and it looks much better than any homemade stuff I have seen. There is a guy on the forums who makes Micarta in various colors and materials (such as burlap) which looks awesome. I think the secret is in the resin but the proper resin to use is about $50.00 a gallon plus expensive shipping; I guess because its considered a hazardous material. If you were going to make tons of Micarta to resell it might be worth it but for me I find it cheaper to just order a few scales at a time from a knife supply store. I have even got some in the clearance section and save them or later projects.

Resin type is huge. and as you say it is not cheap. Last 6 gallon order was over $450. . .not hazardous, just heavy.
 
Ive only made a little bit. I used west systems epoxy. I used canvas and was doing it mainly as an experiment. Layered the canvas and epoxy on top of saran wrap which was ontop of a piece of flat wood. I placed the piece of wood in a vacuum bag that you can hook up a vacuum pump to in the corner. Drew a vacuum which infused the epoxy thruout the canvas. Came out very flat and looked good. Was rather easy. The epoxy doesnt stick to the vacuum bag or the saran wrap.

I think I may have used a 40 lb weight also on top with another board to compress a little while it was still under vacuum. To make any large amounts I would obviously need one of those larger vacuum layered bag type things that cover several square feet but I dont really use micarta so on the rare occasion I need it I can make some over night.
 
True! I still have a glow in the dark spot in my yard!

There is no saving money in making micarta, it is all just a labor of love. I use my hand made material sparingly as it is so much work.
 
Though I make slipjoints - so usually thinner handle material I've made about 10 sheets
3 1/2" x 12" and could'nt be happier. Am getting .010 or less variation on opposite corner
thickness measurments. I am using Burlap because its not commercially available, 10 sheets
of burlap is very close to 1/4" on most of the stuff I'm using. I would'nt make it if I could
buy it.
Ken.
 
I've tried to make Micarta several time with NO luck. It always looked dingy and I could never get a straight slab

precisely why i put 1/2" metal stops between my metal pressing slabs

I can just about guarantee you've already spent more on epoxy than a sheet of real micarta would cost, never mind the time and cloth

i spent $0.00
i used a pair of jeans i had that where to small, i already had the epoxy
if i'm going to keep making micarta, i will be increasing my batch sizes

also, i can get epoxy for cheap (my brothers girlfriend works at a boat shop)

kc custom
Though I make slipjoints - so usually thinner handle material I've made about 10 sheets
3 1/2" x 12" and could'nt be happier. Am getting .010 or less variation on opposite corner
thickness measurments. I am using Burlap because its not commercially available, 10 sheets
of burlap is very close to 1/4" on most of the stuff I'm using. I would'nt make it if I could
buy it.
Ken.

ken, thanks for the input
i've done some looking and i really, really like the way burlap micarta looks!

i will be making some the next time i get out the epoxy stuff, i already have green, OD and brown burlap from the gihllie suit i made
thinking the green burlap i have will look sweet.

i will post pics of my denim micarta process when i can..

thanks for the advice guys!
 
you want between 40-80lbs. of pressure and some uv resistant quick dry spray on laquer will help hold the color while not ruining the micarta's grip ive found making it to be an excellent hobby and more cost effective than paying shipping on slabs im also happy to provide some photos of pieces i have made using just basic bondo resin costs about 40$ a gallon at napa auto parts and some made using evercoat resin which is considerably more expensive at around 100$ a gallon (i havent noticed any strength difference between them) also i might add that felt makes some very nice micarta but paper is the most difficult to work with and after speaking with the master micarta maker robert belcher id recommend checking out his facebook group VP5 plantstone and see his work he also doesnt mind giving tips to newbies like us
 
I made fabric mycarta once, but would only do it again for sentimental reasons (I will be doing a chef's knife for my niece, who is in culinary school. Her birth mother passed away 7 years ago and i will make the mycarta from an old apron of hers) I make paper mycarta from time to time, mostly special liners or if i need a layered up color combo i cant find ready made. I use a square plastic container that is just slightly larger then my finished product. I have a top and bottom plate covered in wax paper. One plate goes in the bottom, then the resin. I layer up the card stock pieces in the container using putty knives to spread the resin and push the layers down. When it's all the way to the top (with just enough room for the top plate) I clamp it firmly, until no more bubbles appear. Once cured, i can crack the block out like you would the old an ice cube tray. I am left with a uniform block (save for trimming the edges down on the table saw). Hope this helps. Oh, and I would NEVER make black canvas mycarta. The real stuff is readily available and cheap.
 
Polyester fiberglass resin resin works well and is much, much cheaper than epoxy. It also seems to be a bit stiffer than epoxy.

For making flat micarta it is a waste of time. But if you are going to put a pattern in it, or wrap a tang, it is a powerful tool.
 
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