Micarta Scales On Stick Tang??

[E.K.Tryon]

Instead of using a solid, one color block of Micarta as part of the handle for a stick tang knife, any reason why I couldn't try building the block with Micarta scales seperated by some colored fiber spacers? Epoxy and pin it into a block and leave the spacer out so it forms a hole running down the middle for the tang??

 

[Bill DeShivs]

It would be better to rout a channel in the blocks, without the spacer material.

 

[E.K.Tryon]

Better... as in the physical strength of the handle?? Artistically I would like the color separation and uniqueness of the spacers running the length of the handle, top and bottom.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

It will be difficult to match the hardness of the Micarta, but it is possible to do what you want.

 

[Ilovetoolsteel]

you would want to do what is called a "mortised" tang handle. when gluing micarta to anything especially micarta you need to get rid of the shiney surface. I use my drill press like a router and put a center cutting end mill in it and use it to shave off a few thousandths from the surface (yes I know it's dangerous). You can route out the mortise using a dremel tool with a rotary cutter. Remember even with a 1/4" thick tang you only need to make a 1/8" deep channel in each half of the scales. When glueing up the handle you should also use a mechanical fastener of some sort. (Pins will work)

 

[E.K.Tryon]

....... When glueing up the handle you should also use a mechanical fastener of some sort. (Pins will work)

Rookie, new guy question because I’ve never done a slab handle with pins. Are pins inserted at the time of initial assembly/glue up or can they be inserted after the fact and held inplace with superglue.

I’m thinking all at once so the epoxy will hold them too.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Pins should be peened for maximum strength. Gluing pins is a modern fad, done by people who are too lazy to learn to peen. You are already inserting a pin, so why not take a little extra time and do it right? You won't even need glue!

 

[james terrio]

Artistically I would like the color separation and uniqueness of the spacers running the length of the handle, top and bottom.

That would look cool. Shop around, you can find micarta and G10 in various colors and thicknesses. Fiber spacer material can shrink.

Glue the thinner piece to one or both scales then cut a mortise into each as described above. If you only add the contrasting piece to one scale, take that into account when you measure/cut the mortise, so the "stripe" comes out centered.

I only trust epoxy to seal out moisture, any strength it adds is a bonus. All knife handles need some type of mechanical fastener; peened pins or Corby bolts won't let you down.

 

[E.K.Tryon]

Pins should be peened for maximum strength. Gluing pins is a modern fad, done by people who are too lazy to learn to peen. You are already inserting a pin, so why not take a little extra time and do it right? You won't even need glue!

I learned a long time ago to do things the correct way, not the easy way. That is why I have been married for 37 years to the same woman.

In my minds eye then I see I would have to come close to finish sanding the handle, drill and install the pins, peen them, and then finish sand the pins flush. If the handle parts, scales and liners are epoxy on and pins installed at the same time then the handle couldn't be clamped because the pins would be too long.

Is that even close?

 

[Ilovetoolsteel]

Pins should be peened for maximum strength. Gluing pins is a modern fad, done by people who are too lazy to learn to peen. You are already inserting a pin, so why not take a little extra time and do it right? You won't even need glue!

How would you go about peening mosaic pins? Micarta pins? I must have been too lazy to learn