micarta spliting problems

R

rookie

Joined
Jan 16, 2000
Messages
60
I have put two handles on the same knife both times I used micarta , both times after the epoxy was dry I started peening the pins(5-32 nickel silver)and they split both times in the same place. Am I doing something wrong,I didn't think micarta would split that easy? thanks in advance!!!!

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Shane ------------------- If you don't have time to do it right the first time, When do you think you'll have time to fix it!!!
 
Some folks may disagree with me but I never peen a pin in handle material, regardless of the material. It may not split now but eventually, if there is the least bit of a stress crack, it will get worse with age. Quite possibly, have you considered using hidden bolts?

C Wilkins
 
Nope, I've never peened handle pins. I'm pretty sure doing so would split any handle material and Micarta is probably the toughest there is. Just set them in with epoxy. They won't come out.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
Bevel the holes with a countersink or slghtly larger drill bit. Cut your pin off about 1/32 to 1/16 in.above the scale. GENTLY peen the pin to fill the hole. Use some sort of anvil behind the pin when peening. Or rough the pin with sandpaper and epoxy it in. You shouldn't have any problems.
 
Hmmmmmmm, I peen all my pins except in stag. Naturally, I countersink the holes on both sides slightly, then before the epoxy sets up, I softly peen the pins, going from side to side. You just have to let the weight of the hammer hit the pin. Don't hit them hard or you will split the handles. I just hold the hammer between my thumb and forefinger and let it bounce on it's own. Play with it and be patient and you'll stop breaking handles. Take care! Michael

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
 
Sometimes I forget that not everyone does it my way. Since I finish shaping my handles, including the pins, after they are expoxied on and pinned, I'd lose any benefit of peening. Having said all that, I have never had a handle failure, even when a knife was slammed to the concrete floor by my buffer or dropped down a cliff and run over with a car by customers.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
...I do it the same way that Jerry does it. I don't shape the scales or anything until everything is epoxied. As mentioned previously, I don't peen the pins either and I have never had a handle failure.

When you do peen the pins in the handle, do they all remain the same size and shape?

C Wilkins

[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 03-25-2000).]
 
Sounds to me like your pin was too close to the edge of the tang. I've seen that before. A good ruld is to locate the hole at least 3x the diameter of the pin from the edge of the tang. Lots of guys make the same mistake with thong holes. For thong holes, I generally use 2x the diameter.

Also, were you using paper based miocarta? It's not nearly as durable as linen or canvas based.


RJ Martin
 
If you feel that you must pin, then be sure and polish the ball on the hammer. That will make the metal flow easier.

You ought to try the epoxy that is used to put golf club heads on shafts. Now what else takes that kind of punishment? Check out http://www.golfsmith.com It's called shafting epoxy.

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A.T.
http://www.customknives.com
AKTI #476


 
I'm sorry guys!!! I didn't mean to imply that peening was better. It takes more skill epoxying the pins in than smackin em with a hammer. I tried the epoxy method a couple times and just couldn't get it right. Take care! Michael

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
 
l6, i peen them too, to fill in the gaps. i don't suggest that it's a better method though. i just perfer it, just make sure you do not peen to much, which would result in a crack in the handle material.
(p.s. l-6 the grinder is coming along very nicely, i'm at the point where the frame is done, and i'm mounting and aligning the flange bearings with the shaft.
i ordered the burr king tracking and tension unit also, and i'll mount that when i receive it.
i've got a tip for when you continue making yours, use lock washers! they keep everything tight (and aligned correctly) when you use them.)
 
thanks guys!! Inormally just epoxy the pins in ,but lately I just feel the need to further strengthen the attachment. I have'nt had a handle come off yet but I'm more worried now than ever, it didn't take much to get the broke handles off when replacing them

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Shane ------------------- If you don't have time to do it right the first time, When do you think you'll have time to fix it!!!
 
If the proper sized drill bit is used, there will be no gaps (now remember, I don't peen). I use either metric or number size bits that are just a "itzy bitzy" bit larger than the pin size I am using.

I used to use all oversized number drill bits until someone on this forum, Tom Mayo I believe, mentioned that he used metric, which in most cases have a tighter tolerance. This forum is great for learning and sharing stuff.....

C Wilkins
 
Hi everyboby!

I peen ALL of the pins in my micarta and G10
handles. I countersink the pinholes using the pointy tip of a wood boring drill bit. The bit gives you a deep countersink. Peen the pins until they fill in the holes. I epoxy the pins in as well. The deep countersink gives you enough room to shape the handle and still have the pin holding the handle on.

I have removed the handles from knives where I have peened the pins. You have to saw or grind the handles off. It is difficult to remove them.

I do not recommend doing this for every handle material, though. Some materials aren't able to withstand the pounding.

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Barry
Jones Knives

Do you hear that?
That is the sound of inevitability.
 
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