Micro bevel - sharpen to burr?

[MrHollowWeen]

If I'm going to add a micro bevel to my blade edge am I wanting to sharpen to a burr just like a single bevel?

Thanks

 

[Diemaker]

It is safest but not absolutely necessary. A lot depends on how big you want your micro bevel to be.

 

[HeavyHanded]

In my philosophy no, or at least try not to. One of the better reasons to use a microbevel is to thin the edge without raising a burr.

Try to start with the cleanest edge you can and microbevel very light touch, change sides every two or three passes.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

If you start with an edge that's already fully apexed and keen, adding a microbevel should take next to nothing in terms of the passes needed or pressure used.

I'm generally inclined NOT to try for a burr, when adding a micro. If the microbevel is very small, it'll be very difficult to detect a burr without grinding more steel away from the edge than is necessary, in pursuit of making a burr large enough to detect. And working to a burr on the microbevel means you'll also need to be very, very careful in removing the burr, to avoid rounding off the apex.

Instead of working to a burr on the micro, I just test-cut in fine paper after making a few very, very light passes on the stone used to add the micro. Check for edge stability and repeatability in cuts into the paper. Might also test-cut into some hard wood, then into the paper, to see how stable & strong the edge is. If you see that the edge is stable in cutting, and durable, after adding the micro, you've really done all you need to do.

 

[Twindog]

I microbevel mostly as a sharpening strategy. After the initial edge gets a bit dull, it's fast and easy to resharpen the apex with a microbevel. I alway look for a burr.

To create a microbevel on an already sharp edge, I don't see how you avoid a burr. It will pop up instantly. The issue isn't whether you will create a burr, but how to properly remove it.

 

[MrHollowWeen]

Everything everyone said makes total sense....one more additional. Assuming, like most mentioned, that I'm starting with an already keen 30 degree inclusive edge (and micro'ing to 40 inclusive), should I start with a fine stone, like a 400 (or even a 600). I think I already know my answer but I just want to confirm....

 

[HeavyHanded]

Everything everyone said makes total sense....one more additional. Assuming, like most mentioned, that I'm starting with an already keen 30 degree inclusive edge (and micro'ing to 40 inclusive), should I start with a fine stone, like a 400 (or even a 600). I think I already know my answer but I just want to confirm....

Use the finest stone you have.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Everything everyone said makes total sense....one more additional. Assuming, like most mentioned, that I'm starting with an already keen 30 degree inclusive edge (and micro'ing to 40 inclusive), should I start with a fine stone, like a 400 (or even a 600). I think I already know my answer but I just want to confirm....

As an example, I use Spyderco's medium-grit Sharpmaker rods in the 40° inclusive slots of the SM's base, when I do a micro. They're roughly equivalent to ~ 1200 on the FEPA-P standard (finish compares to 1200-grit wet/dry SiC sandpaper, in other words). The medium Spyderco leaves just enough of the micro-toothy 'bite' I like, which is why they're my preference for this. I keep the touch as light as possible, and generally don't do any more than maybe 2-5 passes per side, all while repeatedly testing the edge by cutting paper (and maybe wood also), as I previously described.

So, use the finest stone of your preference. That's the one that'll leave the apex finished with exactly the edge character you want (toothy or polished, or somewhere in between).