How To Micro convex on Scandi grind

[kvaughn]

I have a custom bushcrafter in O1 with a scandi grind and have found the edge pretty fragile and prone to rolling when it is really sharp and used hard.
I've read on BF concerning putting a micro convex on these for a stouter but sharp edge. Can some one enlighten me a little as to this process.
I'm a free hand sharpener and have convexed a couple of FG blades with the sandpaper/mousepad method. Most successfully a Carbon-V Trailmaster and my Opinels.
I just need a little info and methodology on the "micro" part of convexing.
Thanx a bunch in advance.--KV

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

If the edge is already sharp off the stones, the edge itself can take on just a little bit of convex by stropping on something like hard-backed denim with an aluminum oxide compound (white rouge, Simichrome Polish, Flitz, etc). I emphasize a hard-backed strop, because anything softer would tend to convex too much. Don't need to overdo it. Just the little bit of compression in the single layer of denim is enough to add a shallow convex to the edge.

I mention the above because, for a while, I had been maintaining a few of my knives on such a strop (denim over wood, with white rouge), and a mirrored, shaving-sharp shallow convex was always the result. It works well. Keep the stropping angle conservatively low, slightly below what you'd use on the stones, so the resulting convex won't be too obtuse at the edge.

You might also think about just adding a simple microbevel. It's debatable whether convex will lend much advantage in itself, other than widening the apex angle a little bit, same as what a microbevel would do.

 

[kvaughn]

If the edge is already sharp off the stones, the edge itself can take on just a little bit of convex by stropping on something like hard-backed denim with an aluminum oxide
compound (white rouge, Simichrome Polish, Flitz, etc). I emphasize a hard-backed strop, because anything softer would tend to convex too much. Don't need to overdo it. Just the little bit of compression in the single layer of denim is enough to add a shallow convex to the edge.

I mention the above because, for a while, I had been maintaining a few of my knives on such a strop (denim over wood, with white rouge), and a mirrored, shaving-sharp shallow convex was always the result. It works well. Keep the stropping angle conservatively low, slightly below what you'd use on the stones, so the resulting convex won't be too obtuse at the edge.

You might also think about just adding a simple microbevel. It's debatable whether convex will lend much advantage in itself, other than widening the apex angle a little bit, same as what a microbevel would do.

Would the micro bevel be done with a coarse stone grading up to fine or strop to a secondary bevel ?
Thanx for your time and info.--KV

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Would the micro bevel be done with a coarse stone grading up to fine or strop to a secondary bevel ?
Thanx for your time and info.--KV

The microbevel could be done with just one stone of your grit preference, for the finish on it. If it's applied to an already sharp edge, it would only take a few passes to get it done. With a bevel so tiny ('micro'), it pays to do it in as few passes as possible, to minimize edge-rounding that might happen if too many strokes are done freehand, thereby introducing some inevitable angle-holding error in the process.

 

[kvaughn]

Comprende. Off to the basement. Thanx again!--KV