"Microbevel" on folders?

Joined
Jun 5, 2012
Messages
5
Hi!
I have broken my Benchmade Pika's cuttig edge (I was sharpening my knife on no-name kitchen sharpmaker) and my friend have made a new angle on my knife - 20 degrees.

He said that would be good to sharpening it (20 degrees) on 25 degrees with my Lansky Turbox. I think that is some kind of "microbevel", right? 20 degrees cutting edge with 25 micro edge?

Knife is very sharp after that but I'm wondering if sharpening it always on 25 degrees?

Does anyone of You guys are sharpening folders in similar way?

I haven't found informations about microbevels on folders on polish forums.

PS: Sorry for my english :p
 
A microbevil is usually a smaller angle- like a 20 degree grind that narrows to a 15 degree edge. 25 degrees is a not a great angle for cutting usually, that's more for chopping. ( I keep my axe at about 30degrees) it also depends on the steel you are using. An higher quality *usually* works fine with a more narrow angle. I keep all my knives between 15 and 20 degrees per side.
 
This might fit better in the Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment sub-forum. I'm moving it there.
 
Ok, thanks! Microbevel is reccomended for aggresive cutting and chopping. I get it.

I'll start sharpening on 20 degrees again. I have sharpened my knife on 25 only a few times (and only abt 5-10 times for side) so I hope that'll be easy to sharpen it on 20 degrees now. What do you think?
 
I normally use 20 degrees on my Benchmade 585 mini barrage and get a great edge. There were several nicks in the edge from hard use and I was bored and reprofiled to 25 degrees, using the Lansky system. The finished edge is just as sharp and polished as normal.
 
A microbevil is usually a smaller angle- like a 20 degree grind that narrows to a 15 degree edge.

This is incorrect. A micro-bevel must be a larger angle than the primary bevel, otherwise it's just going to hit the shoulders of the primary. Given normal sharpening equipment and blades, there is no practical way to reduce the angle of a bevel without creating a completely new bevel.

Edit: On further reflection, I realized that you could grind one side of the blade completely flat, into a chisel ground blade. That would reduce the edge angle, but it's probably not something many people want to do.
 
A microbevil is usually a smaller angle- like a 20 degree grind that narrows to a 15 degree edge.

A micro bevel is the exact opposite of this. As described above, that would be geometrically impossible.

The 'micro' qualifier does mean the bevel's width is narrower from shoulder to edge, but not the edge angle. In other words, something like a 15 degree primary grind, with a 20 degree micro bevel at the edge. Taking a 20 degree primary grind down to 15 would simply be a re-profile of the entire primary grind, all the way to the edge.

Here's an illustration (pic from web). The secondary bevel's angle is always wider than the primary bevel's angle, and a micro bevel applied to the secondary would be wider (in angle) than both.
bevels.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top