Microtech and Loctite

Cosmic Superchunk

Cosmic Superchunk

Joined
Jan 28, 2001
Messages
3,709
I have a Microtech LCC which I got in a trade that has a very small bit of side play, so I tried to correct it by tightening the pivot screw, however, the thing won't budge. I can't even loosen it. I've heard that using the tip of a soldering iron and heating the pin will melt the adhesive, but I don't have one. Anyone have any suggestions short of sending it to Microtech?
 
Did you try a hair dryer? I put some blue loctite on some Spyderco clip screws last week. A little more than expected came out of the tube and went on the pivot. I wiped it off and forgot about it until about 5 hours later when I needed to open the mail. The knife wasn't stuck but it was real hard to open. I tried oil and carb cleaner with some minor loosening. Then I came here and did a search. Someone suggested a heat gun or hair dryer. I tried that and the knife still does not snap open and shut like before but it is a lot better.
 
Frank, I may give that a try. I did a search and someone suggested nail polish remover, but my model has dark grey anodised bolsters, so I don't know if that will ruin the finish on the bolsters.
 
Just heat it up, this is the "official" suggestion of our local Loctite importer. I have tried it and it works.
 
Just how hot is it supposed to get? I tried my wife's hair dryer on it for at least a minute and a half and it still won't work.
 
I might be wrong, but because of MT's pivot design, you can't adjust the pivot with the screw...

--dan
 
What you need to do is to boil that sucker, yes BOIL IT! Let it stay in for 3 to 4 minutes at a rolling boil, then remove from heat and add two cups of.................no wait thats something else!

Seriously though, boil it for several minutes and you will be surprised at how easy it comes apart. I've done this a number of times with great success. I would remove the handle slabs although I don't think it will hurt if you leave them on.
 
el cid, turn the hair dryer on high heat, and put it right next to the pivot screw. The end of the hair dryer should almost touch the screw. Try it for at least 3 minutes if 1.5 minutes is not working. I know for a fact that the hair dryer trick will work on the red loctite which creates a stronger bond than the blue. Big D1
 
Well, I tried the hairdryer trick. This time for about 4 minutes with no luck. I suppose I'll have to buy a soldering iron next. I hate to have to send the LCC back to Microtech,if all I have to do is try to tighten the pivot screw.
 
As far as the Acetone harming the bolsters, or anything else, don't worry about it. I actually use acetone to clean my LCC when I want to remove any oil or fingerprints from the blade, or bolsters. You may notice a slight color change, but that's just from being clean! On the Ti bolsters, a little natural oil from handling actually darkens the color slightly. It also has the same effect on anodized Ti, like on the Cuda Maxx. Acetone has the same effect as Windex, in removing all oils, and restoring the natural shine.

Will acetone loosen the pivot pin? I don't really know, but wish you the best of luck in getting that LCC back to 100%. Great knife for the money, IMHO.

DD
 
Well, the word I got from another forum is that because of the LCC's design, tightening the pivot pin will not reduce any blade play. I guess this is an adjustment only Microtech can do. It kind of sucks since it seems to be such a simple thing to fix.
 
FWIW, I have both spline and torx wrenches and even after heating up one of the clip screws on my LCC with a soldering iron I still stripped the inside of the screw. Two came out fine, but the third refused to budge.

Luckily I was able to move the clip over enough to bend it back into shape without full removal.

Maybe somebody needs to lighten up on the loctite. ;)
 
It works. I've done it several times. You need to leave the blade closed after you bring it out of the water and then take a flat tip screwdriver with a PADDED tip, cover it with masking tape or something. and as you loosen the screw apply pressure, slight pressure by placing the screwdriver tip between the bolsters. This added pressure will keep the pivot pin from turning which is what it is doing. I have done this several times on MT's as someone is very liberal with the loctite. It does work and by taking your time and padding te driver you will not mar the finish.

To fix the wobble take the bearing off the pivot pin and sand the flat surface on a piece of 400 grit paper fastened down to a flat surface. Does not take much. Reassemble and see if that does not take the wobble out. If not do it again. You can get it out this way. I have also done this and it does work. Too much though and the blade will be too hard to open.

Be aware that this will void your warranty, also be aware that I am not a professional knifemaker. I do this with my own knives because it will work. I hope you get it worked out whichever way you go!
 
Artsig1, I could make Microtech tea! :D

What kind of bearing are you referring to? Is it between the blade itself once you remove the blade from the handle?
 
I was afraid of that when Blue's posted that he used a soldering iron, and he could not get one of the clip screws out. What are the Microtech folks using now on the screws down there in Florida? Surely not anything stronger than red loctite.

el cid, it looks like boiling is the way to go. People boil S&W revolver cylinders to loosen up the ejector rods that just want let go with good results.

Could you and artsig1 put me on the tea list?:D :)
 
The bearing is on the pivot pin and it is what the blade tang hole actually fits down over. This bearing is a hair thicker than the blade and this is what the sideplates fasten down onto. This leaves a very small gap for the blade to move through as it rotates on the bearing. If the bearing is too thick then there is too much space and you have some blade wobble. It used to be that there was no such thing as blade wobble on a MT but lately I see it more and more.

BTW, this is the same syatem the Sebenza uses and one reason why it is so tight yet so smooth to open. At least CRK still gets it right!;) :D
 
To read all about thread locking adhesives, click HERE

By the way, my procedure is NOT to try and apply the stuff right out of the tube. Instead, put a drop onto a piece of waxed paper or foil and then use a toothpick to transfer just a dab to the screw.

I don't know about other models, but Microtech's application of thread locking adhesive on their Tachyon Balisongs has been very inconsistent. I've had four now and I've had screws that I simply couldn't get out without a soldering iron and when they did come out, you could see the residue from the adhesive all up and down the screw. Others come right out with no effort and no sign of any adhesive. It sounds to me like MT has some process issues to work on.
 
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