Middle TN axe (still learning)

C

CMK11

Joined
Nov 29, 2011
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I've been reading and learning from these forums for about a week and I now feel confused enough to ask a few questions regarding an axe. I'm on the cumberland plateau in TN and am looking for a camp axe as well as a felling axe and maul for the house.

First, I'd like to point out that I'm a buy once - cry once kinda guy. When I find something I like, that works, that's proven, I buy it. Sometimes more than 1. I don't mind caring for things so upkeep etc. are not a concern however, I treat tools like tools meaning, they get worked hard. Main thing is, it needs to work, every time, all the time.

That being said, I think I've come to understand that the fiskars maul is perfectly adequate and I won't be gaining much in that area by going with a GB or Wetterlings? Is this correct?

For a camp/backpacking axe, I'm eying the Wetterlings large hunting axe or the GB small forrest axe. For the area in TN I'm at, which would you suggest and why? (trying to learn about axe qualities vs different types of wood)

For a felling axe, I'm looking at the GB Scandinavian Forrest axe or the American Felling Axe as well as the Wetterlings Swedish and American Felling axe.

I know absolutely zilch about axes and have very little felling experience but quite a bit of bush experience. If my terms, mindset etc. are wrong, please correct it. Thanks again. This forum is a huge help. Put me on the ESEE-5 and I couldn't be happier.
 
CMK -

Thanks for the post, looks like you have some good questions.

If you are looking for a maul, they can be had almost anywhere, and are usually of good quality. I have an old Monster Maul, and then also one I got from Tractor Supply. I use these to split wood of course, so looking for cosmetics to me isnt a big deal here, I look for functionality, which pretty much most mauls give. You just need to decide what size maul u need based off of what size wood you cut. Most of the wood I cut is 20 inches plus diameter at the base, so I need a good sized maul. Thats why I go bigger and basic. Might not work for you.

For camp/backpack, I have little experience in, so I equate that out to a limbing axe, or bucking axe. This is usually in the area around 20 inches, 2 lb head or so. A boys axe can fit this bill, and be less of a price tag than a GB, though the scandanavian GB I have I will say is top notch. Though the boys axe I use for limbing cost me $10 and once sharpened correctly is a bad, bad boy.

For felling, usually a 4 lb Dayton or Michigan pattern is good, depending on the size of tree you are talking. If you are bushcraft, then this is too big obviously. So that will depend on size.

I would concentrate on what I am looking at as far as tree size, then we can go from there.
 
Size will vary but 20" is probably towards the larger end of what I will be dealing with. Thanks for the information.
 
I'll add another question. I hear people preferring the wood handled axes from GB etc. over the polymer handled offerings from fiskars and the like, but not a whole lot of people expound on why. So, very clearly so I can learn... Why?
 
I got to play around acouple weeks ago with a small GB maul that a family friend picked up for his weekend fish camp. They are actually a pretty useful tool instead of the usual "dull heavy metal wedge on a stick" image that comes to mind when somebody says "maul". I think I liked it more than an SFA, it's bit is alot thinner than any maul I've used before and thickens up nicely around the eye. Even chopped through some smaller blowdown nicely. I think it would make an interesting alternative to an SFA or Husky axe.

"Camp Axe" is one of those broad terms that cover everything from 18" 1 1/2lb large hatchets to 26" 2.5lb 3/4 axes. Are you looking for a crafty afternoon axe, something to chop up firewood for an overnighter or even something that can clear decent sized blowdown around your camp & trails?

As for handle mat'ls......wood just feels better.
 
Tireur said:
I got to play around acouple weeks ago with a small GB maul that a family friend picked up for his weekend fish camp. They are actually a pretty useful tool instead of the usual "dull heavy metal wedge on a stick" image that comes to mind when somebody says "maul". I think I liked it more than an SFA, it's bit is alot thinner than any maul I've used before and thickens up nicely around the eye. Even chopped through some smaller blowdown nicely. I think it would make an interesting alternative to an SFA or Husky axe.

"Camp Axe" is one of those broad terms that cover everything from 18" 1 1/2lb large hatchets to 26" 2.5lb 3/4 axes. Are you looking for a crafty afternoon axe, something to chop up firewood for an overnighter or even something that can clear decent sized blowdown around your camp & trails?

As for handle mat'ls......wood just feels better.
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Clarification of camp axe: 5 day backpacking utility oriented. Nature is the specialist's enemy. Needs to be light (relative to its usefulness), durable and capable of chopping, splitting, etc. Might be asking for too much. Like I said, I don't know anything about the axe. Looking at 20" or so for that classification. Thanks for the response.
 
HandAxeProMan said:
I love the Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe for use as a camp axe. It is a superb axe.
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I'm a nerd for technical details so bear with me: Why? What features of that axe do you prefer over other's you've used? What are you using it for? Thanks!
 
CMK11 said:
I'll add another question. I hear people preferring the wood handled axes from GB etc. over the polymer handled offerings from fiskars and the like, but not a whole lot of people expound on why. So, very clearly so I can learn... Why?
Click to expand...

My wood handled splitters seem to transmit less vibration to the hands and wrists. A properly oiled wood handle also feels great in your hand. I like my Fiskars also; the handles require no maintenance and I've beat the tar out of them without a single failure.
 
I like the GB splitting maul but then I do a lot of splitting by hand and have several mauls already. It seems to penetrate the wood better with its good edge. I use a rubber collar in addition to the metal collar that's on the maul from GB. I also have fiberglass mauls (cheap, pretty indistructable).

Wood handles can be replaced and have more character (sorry if that sounds lame). As I worked on restoring axes I've used my fiberglass mauls less and less. Wood handles tend to get beat up pretty bad if your aim is bad.
 
cooperhill said:
I like the GB splitting maul but then I do a lot of splitting by hand and have several mauls already. It seems to penetrate the wood better with its good edge. I use a rubber collar in addition to the metal collar that's on the maul from GB. I also have fiberglass mauls (cheap, pretty indistructable).

Wood handles can be replaced and have more character (sorry if that sounds lame). As I worked on restoring axes I've used my fiberglass mauls less and less. Wood handles tend to get beat up pretty bad if your aim is bad.
Click to expand...

Not lame at all. Wood has qualities beyond just its usefulness as a tool. Much in the way certain types of art does for some people. I get "it" completely. One just has to weigh that feature against his other needs. Thanks for the post.
 
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