Might Mod My Millie More

[David Mary]

It's just a thought, but I am most likely going to do the regrind today, and the response from Suingab will likely determine if I add custom scales to it.

I know, I know, "the Millie is perfect as is", but I can't help myself when I get an idea how to make a knife better for me.

Now (as you can see, I have already started to mod it):


"Artist's rendering" of post regrind and Suingab scales (if I do them):


As you can see, the new scales will give better "slide forward protection" while still leaving me with a choil-like choke up position, and the regrind will give me more usable edge. Also note the scale "rendering" does not take into account that I will probably ask for micarta, or (if possible) blue (not blurple!) peel ply G10.


Anyone else drastically mod their Millie? If so, I'd love to see what you came up with!

P.S. The choil hits the stop pin behind where my proposed regrind terminates, which will leave the locking mechanism free from edge on stop pin contact, post regrind.

 

[David Mary]

Well I reground the Millie before doing the Manix 2 XL. I did the Waterway a few weeks ago. Still no response from Suingab to my email - I sure hope he can do blue peel ply G10!





J jpm2 you have an M4 Millie you've been modding, how's it coming along?

 

[jpm2]

J jpm2 you have an M4 Millie you've been modding, how's it coming along?

Not sure if I'm done yet, been using it like this for a while now and it handles really well.

 

[David Mary]

No doubt. Quite an efficient package you've got going there. What else were you thinking of doing to it?

 

[jpm2]

I'll probably remove the last bit of handle belly that remains, and continue to lower the spine. I also like the blade grind on yours, so that's being considered.

 

[David Mary]

If I understand you right, you mean you'd have a smooth continuous inward handle curve from just behind the lock bar to the butt of the handle? That would be some pretty clean aesthetics, and probably still quite secure in the hand.

With the way I have ground mine, I can still choke up as long as I use a "push/pull" where I push into the ramp with my thumb and put rearward pressure with my index finger into the G10. And there's still some jimping there to keep me from sliding forward. Even though it will expose more of the tang in the closed position, I think I will grind some more of the G10 in the choil area to expose more of the choil jimping, and I might also slightly reshape the tang and cut some jimping of my own into it.

As for the more exposed tang, well, I can already use it like a front flipper, so it'll be even easier afterwards, I guess.

 

[jpm2]

If I understand you right, you mean you'd have a smooth continuous inward handle curve from just behind the lock bar to the butt of the handle? That would be some pretty clean aesthetics, and probably still quite secure in the hand.

With the way I have ground mine, I can still choke up as long as I use a "push/pull" where I push into the ramp with my thumb and put rearward pressure with my index finger into the G10. And there's still some jimping there to keep me from sliding forward. Even though it will expose more of the tang in the closed position, I think I will grind some more of the G10 in the choil area to expose more of the choil jimping, and I might also slightly reshape the tang and cut some jimping of my own into it.

As for the more exposed tang, well, I can already use it like a front flipper, so it'll be even easier afterwards, I guess.

Yes, a smooth continuous inward curve, perfectly described. I'm always shifting my grip while working. It seems grips with bellies and swells have the hammer grip in mind, which I rarely use, so they always get in my way.

I forgot the G10 below the pivot, probably flatten or take it flush with the metal.
Also reduce the nub, or "kick" as it's called with some knives.

I'm pretty slow with stuff like this. I make small changes, then carry/use it a while to evaluate.