Mild steel San mai ripped my core steel

Joined
Jan 22, 2022
Messages
6
Hey so I’m new here and it’s not letting me post a picture of my blade but I just quenched my San mai chefs knife and after tempering I noticed there was a massive crack down the spine. It’s not along the forge welds but in the core. It’s got a mild steel cladding from home depot and a 1095 core. I saw on another thread that a smith had the same issue but because it was stainless steel cladding that ripped his core. Any idea why mine had that result? I left a slightly thicker spine and annealed twice before quenching in preheated oil and tempered at 400 degrees for two hours. And also is it salvageable through a forge weld or mig welding? Thanks y’all
 
Welcome.
I have had mono steel blades crack down the spin before so it might just be bad luck.
Mild steel shrinks/expands differently then 1095 so that could also be apart of it.
if it were me I’d just scrap it, but if you really want to try to salvage it mig welding it closed is probably your best bet.
 
Welcome.
I have had mono steel blades crack down the spin before so it might just be bad luck.
Mild steel shrinks/expands differently then 1095 so that could also be apart of it.
if it were me I’d just scrap it, but if you really want to try to salvage it mig welding it closed is probably your best bet.
Thanks for the reply! This is my last bar of 1095 and I gotta give this knife to its new owner so I gotta try and salvage it lol if you could see how nice the blade is. Definitely thinking of the mig weld but do you think a forge weld would even be possible?
 
You can re-weld it by forging. MIG may salvage it from the trash bin, but isn't a perfect fix. Making a new blade is the right fix.

Next time, use lower austenitization temperatures. If you were using a forge, get someone with an oven to do the HT for you.
Clay coating the upper half of the blade will also help a lot.
 
I left a slightly thicker spine and annealed twice before quenching
I'm not understanding this step. Are you referring to grain refinement/thermal cycling instead? If so, why only twice? Most makers will do 3 grain refining cycles.
 
Thanks for the reply! This is my last bar of 1095 and I gotta give this knife to its new owner so I gotta try and salvage it lol if you could see how nice the blade is. Definitely thinking of the mig weld but do you think a forge weld would even be possible?
As a maker who makes his living from selling knives, never pass off a knife that should be in the scrap bin to a customer/friend/family it’s one thing to jig weld the spine and keep it yourself as a shop knife or a beater knife fire the truck or camping but as Stacy has commented the right fix is a new blade. As knife makers reputation is everything and fixes that you see on forged in fire to get through a competition are rarely acceptable outside of that specific scenario. Here is a relevant story, I do a lot of wholesale work and one of my wholesale clients had purchased about 30 knives from me and they had a client that purchased the entire lot from them but to make the sale the dealer had to sell the end client a prototype integral chef knife I had made for them and the client wanted 6 more exactly like the prototype. So the dealer reached out to me to get 6 more made, I had just started making integrals and wasn’t super confident in making a batch that all had to match a one off knife that I had no template for but I said I could make them, 1 month later with the deadline approaching I had 25-30 failed attempts and was on my last bar of steel in the size I needed to make the knives, got the 6 knives through heat treating and on to final grinds and this batch was looking perfect. Well doing the final grind on the first knife and I start seeing metal flaking away near the edge, keep in mind these were mono steel so no forge welds, my best guess is there were micro voids in the steel a flaw from the manufacturing of the steel that made it to me, probably a 1 in a million chance. So I set the first knife down and starting grinding the rest and each knife has the same voids, they were all from the same bar so it confirmed my suspicion that it was a flaw in the material versus a process issue, I probably could have kept grinding thinner and removed the voids but I knew they were there and what was to say that there wasn’t more in the very center that I wouldn’t be able to see. I had to call the dealer to say not only was I going to miss the deadline but that after that many failed attempts we would need to change the order to a different style of knife I knew I could confidently make. The client ended up liking the new style of knives but he had intended on purchasing 150 knives as a large wholesale order and I knew the moment I made that call to the dealer saying we can’t put our names on this and unfortunately we will have to change the design that we would lose that large order. But I made it very clear that quality and reputation was worth more to me than the money and that dealer has continued to purchase knives from me and we have built an even better product line and even better relationships since that incident. If I had passed off those knife and any of them failed due to a defect I doubt I would still be making knives for that dealer. Long story short it’s better to disappoint on a deadline than the product itself, use this as a lesson and make a better knife.
 
Hey so I’m new here and it’s not letting me post a picture of my blade but I just quenched my San mai chefs knife and after tempering I noticed there was a massive crack down the spine. It’s not along the forge welds but in the core. It’s got a mild steel cladding from home depot and a 1095 core. I saw on another thread that a smith had the same issue but because it was stainless steel cladding that ripped his core. Any idea why mine had that result? I left a slightly thicker spine and annealed twice before quenching in preheated oil and tempered at 400 degrees for two hours. And also is it salvageable through a forge weld or mig welding? Thanks y’all

I'm guessing due to lack of info in the process. That crack may be delamination from stress, how long it took from quenching to tempering? If it was too long Im sure that's the problem. 1095 is very "nervous" after quench, it needs to be heated to temper asap or at least holding it at 100C/212F until you can properly temper it

Pablo
 
I'm guessing due to lack of info in the process. That crack may be delamination from stress, how long it took from quenching to tempering? If it was too long Im sure that's the problem. 1095 is very "nervous" after quench, it needs to be heated to temper asap or at least holding it at 100C/212F until you can properly temper it

Pablo
Yes sir! I waited till it hit almost room temp and just splashed some water on to get it holdable which idk if that may have been the cause but I put it in a 400 degree oven for two hours right after that and that’s when I saw the crack. Don’t know if it was after the quench or the tempering when it cracked. Jason knight said I can try forge welding again so we’ll see
 
As a maker who makes his living from selling knives, never pass off a knife that should be in the scrap bin to a customer/friend/family it’s one thing to jig weld the spine and keep it yourself as a shop knife or a beater knife fire the truck or camping but as Stacy has commented the right fix is a new blade. As knife makers reputation is everything and fixes that you see on forged in fire to get through a competition are rarely acceptable outside of that specific scenario. Here is a relevant story, I do a lot of wholesale work and one of my wholesale clients had purchased about 30 knives from me and they had a client that purchased the entire lot from them but to make the sale the dealer had to sell the end client a prototype integral chef knife I had made for them and the client wanted 6 more exactly like the prototype. So the dealer reached out to me to get 6 more made, I had just started making integrals and wasn’t super confident in making a batch that all had to match a one off knife that I had no template for but I said I could make them, 1 month later with the deadline approaching I had 25-30 failed attempts and was on my last bar of steel in the size I needed to make the knives, got the 6 knives through heat treating and on to final grinds and this batch was looking perfect. Well doing the final grind on the first knife and I start seeing metal flaking away near the edge, keep in mind these were mono steel so no forge welds, my best guess is there were micro voids in the steel a flaw from the manufacturing of the steel that made it to me, probably a 1 in a million chance. So I set the first knife down and starting grinding the rest and each knife has the same voids, they were all from the same bar so it confirmed my suspicion that it was a flaw in the material versus a process issue, I probably could have kept grinding thinner and removed the voids but I knew they were there and what was to say that there wasn’t more in the very center that I wouldn’t be able to see. I had to call the dealer to say not only was I going to miss the deadline but that after that many failed attempts we would need to change the order to a different style of knife I knew I could confidently make. The client ended up liking the new style of knives but he had intended on purchasing 150 knives as a large wholesale order and I knew the moment I made that call to the dealer saying we can’t put our names on this and unfortunately we will have to change the design that we would lose that large order. But I made it very clear that quality and reputation was worth more to me than the money and that dealer has continued to purchase knives from me and we have built an even better product line and even better relationships since that incident. If I had passed off those knife and any of them failed due to a defect I doubt I would still be making knives for that dealer. Long story short it’s better to disappoint on a deadline than the product itself, use this as a lesson and make a better knife.
Yes sir! I waited till it hit almost room temp and just splashed some water on to get it holdable which idk if that may have been the cause but I put it in a 400 degree oven for two hours right after that and that’s when I saw the crack. Don’t know if it was after the quench or the tempering when it cracked. Jason knight said I can try forge welding again so we’ll see
As a maker who makes his living from selling knives, never pass off a knife that should be in the scrap bin to a customer/friend/family it’s one thing to jig weld the spine and keep it yourself as a shop knife or a beater knife fire the truck or camping but as Stacy has commented the right fix is a new blade. As knife makers reputation is everything and fixes that you see on forged in fire to get through a competition are rarely acceptable outside of that specific scenario. Here is a relevant story, I do a lot of wholesale work and one of my wholesale clients had purchased about 30 knives from me and they had a client that purchased the entire lot from them but to make the sale the dealer had to sell the end client a prototype integral chef knife I had made for them and the client wanted 6 more exactly like the prototype. So the dealer reached out to me to get 6 more made, I had just started making integrals and wasn’t super confident in making a batch that all had to match a one off knife that I had no template for but I said I could make them, 1 month later with the deadline approaching I had 25-30 failed attempts and was on my last bar of steel in the size I needed to make the knives, got the 6 knives through heat treating and on to final grinds and this batch was looking perfect. Well doing the final grind on the first knife and I start seeing metal flaking away near the edge, keep in mind these were mono steel so no forge welds, my best guess is there were micro voids in the steel a flaw from the manufacturing of the steel that made it to me, probably a 1 in a million chance. So I set the first knife down and starting grinding the rest and each knife has the same voids, they were all from the same bar so it confirmed my suspicion that it was a flaw in the material versus a process issue, I probably could have kept grinding thinner and removed the voids but I knew they were there and what was to say that there wasn’t more in the very center that I wouldn’t be able to see. I had to call the dealer to say not only was I going to miss the deadline but that after that many failed attempts we would need to change the order to a different style of knife I knew I could confidently make. The client ended up liking the new style of knives but he had intended on purchasing 150 knives as a large wholesale order and I knew the moment I made that call to the dealer saying we can’t put our names on this and unfortunately we will have to change the design that we would lose that large order. But I made it very clear that quality and reputation was worth more to me than the money and that dealer has continued to purchase knives from me and we have built an even better product line and even better relationships since that incident. If I had passed off those knife and any of them failed due to a defect I doubt I would still be making knives for that dealer. Long story short it’s better to disappoint on a deadline than the product itself, use this as a lesson and make a better knife.
Thanks for this actually. It’s a tough thought to scrap it if it gets to that but you’re right that reputation is everything. Going to try and forge weld it but if not I may just restart
 
I'm not understanding this step. Are you referring to grain refinement/thermal cycling instead? If so, why only twice? Most makers will do 3 grain refining cycles.
I meant thermal cycling lol my bad. Been watching too much silver smelting lately. I did do only two that night but since it was San mai I thought it wouldn’t be that bad to skip a third time. Do you think that may have caused that crack along the spine?
 
From everything you have told us, I think the biggest error was "just splashed some water on to get it holdable".

Next one:
Use clay on the spine and upper bevels area that will be covered with the san-mai.

Austenitize for 10 minutes at 1425°F in a HT oven. (A forge is not the proper tool for this task in hypereutectoid core san-mai)
Quench in fast oil. Let it cool in the air until below 200°F
Wear gloves and wipe the oil off the blade. Let it cool in the air until below 100°F.
Immediately* temper at 375-400°F for two hours, twice.


Done in this manner, the upper bevels and spine should be pearlitic and soft. The edge should be quite hard. Since the upper area does not have a conversion to martensite, there is no stress to tear the blade down the center or crack it.

*Immediately means as soon as possible. Best if done withing 10 minutes, but certainly within an hour or two. Overnight is risky in hypereutectoid steels and especially in san-mai.

Between the quench and the second temper DO NOTHING to the blade. It should be in still air, not laying on a cold anvil. A wooden benchtop or a board is OK to lay it on but suspending in the air is best. Above all, resist the temptation to go "clean it up on the grinder" before temper.
 
This happened 5 years ago with my first sheet of 1/16" vg10 stainless clad sanmai. Did the hardening, went out for lunch with a friend while the hardening oven cooled down to temper temps... big error.

When we returned all the blades were open like flowers... Sometimes you learn the hard way.
Now I have two ovens, and plan for a 3rd one, one for hardening, one for tempering.

Pablo

e3WrhCv.jpg
 
I'm not understanding this step. Are you referring to grain refinement/thermal cycling instead? If so, why only twice? Most makers will do 3 grain refining cycles.
I meant thermal cycling lol my bad. Been watching too much silver smelting lately. I did do only two that night but since it was San mai I thought it wouldn’t be that bad to skip a third time. Do you think that may have caused that crack along the spine?
From everything you have told us, I think the biggest error was "just splashed some water on to get it holdable".

Next one:
Use clay on the spine and upper bevels area that will be covered with the san-mai.

Austenitize for 10 minutes at 1425°F in a HT oven. (A forge is not the proper tool for this task in hypereutectoid core san-mai)
Quench in fast oil. Let it cool in the air until below 200°F
Wear gloves and wipe the oil off the blade. Let it cool in the air until below 100°F.
Immediately* temper at 375-400°F for two hours, twice.


Done in this manner, the upper bevels and spine should be pearlitic and soft. The edge should be quite hard. Since the upper area does not have a conversion to martensite, there is no stress to tear the blade down the center or crack it.

*Immediately means as soon as possible. Best if done withing 10 minutes, but certainly within an hour or two. Overnight is risky in hypereutectoid steels and especially in san-mai.

Between the quench and the second temper DO NOTHING to the blade. It should be in still air, not laying on a cold anvil. A wooden benchtop or a board is OK to lay it on but suspending in the air is best. Above all, resist the temptation to go "clean it up on the grinder" before temper.
so how come you say not to clean it on the grinder before tempering I’m wondering? Actually never done that and just tempered without cleaning but what is the actual reason? I’m fascinated!
 
so how come you say not to clean it on the grinder before tempering I’m wondering?
I can think of a couple reasons, but all related to the excessive stresses on the steel's atomic structure brought on by hardening. PEU PEU gave an example of the main one, spontaneous destruction of the blade without doing anything. There's also a risk of dropping an un-tempered blade on the floor, any flexing of the blade during the grinding could cause it to break.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PEU
Yes, the blade may break apart in your fingers, or destroy itself in the temper.
Grinding adds stresses to the steel. These will find any high stress place and the results can be catastrophic.

We all do it, but cleaning the bade up just to take a peek at the hamon of get rid of the scale before tempering is tempting fate. In hypereutectoid steels, it is very risky.
 
Back
Top