Miling machine for small workshop DIY use

Kermit

Kermit

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Im a first time buyer of Milling machines and have little knowledge of what I really should be looking out for, what to avoid, what should be considered a cost effective solution for light use DIY and if I should consider specific brand names other another.

At the present I have only looked at the Clark range of milling machines. What would I realistically be capable of doing with the machine linked below, will I be limited to working with aluminium and plastics or could the device mill something else harder.

Also what sort of life should I expect out of tool bits, is it worth spending more on them or should I look towards throw away bits?

Micro Milling Machine

Many thanks in advance.
 
Cheers C.M looks professional but they are West coast so way out of my reach, shipping would have me by the coin purse.
 
Look up 'Micro Mart' on Google. They sell some of the finest machine and manual tools on the market and have both a superb small mill/drill press and also a metal/wood lathe.
 
Kermit said:
Im a first time buyer of Milling machines and have little knowledge of what I really should be looking out for, what to avoid, what should be considered a cost effective solution for light use DIY and if I should consider specific brand names other another.

At the present I have only looked at the Clark range of milling machines. What would I realistically be capable of doing with the machine linked below, will I be limited to working with aluminium and plastics or could the device mill something else harder.

Also what sort of life should I expect out of tool bits, is it worth spending more on them or should I look towards throw away bits?

Micro Milling Machine

Many thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Hi,

Like trying to answer the question about what knife to get, we need to know what it is you want to do with a mill.

The one you linked to is pretty much only good for plastics, wood, and some aluminum. It won't tolerate steels. It's too light and runs too fast for steel.

As far as cutting tools, They are meant to be resharpened. Though it takes special equipment to do so, (stones, belts, and paper wheels need not apply). Sharpening services are available. Cutting tools is an area where good brands make a big difference. M2 & M4 are considered junk for cutting tools.

dalee
 
I would like to be able to mill out as a first project a set of water basin taps from brass or stainless steel. That's as far as my needs regarding size and scope of materials will go to.

Thanks for all your feedback.
 
Hi,

If that's the types of projects you're interested in, you will need a bigger more powerful machine.

Brass machines pretty well, but can be a bit "grabby", sometimes trying to pull the tool into the work. Stainless steel? There is a reason machinist's refer to SS as Super Sh**. Most benchtop machines will be over matched working on SS.

Looking at the benchtops offered there, the CMD300 would be a better choice for your envisioned projects. And bigger would be better yet if you want to mill stainless. I've had 2hp mills, (Bridgeport types), that weigh a couple thousand pounds wimp out on stainless. More power is always better.

You can try to find a used mill. They are out there and an older full sized model would perhaps cost not much more than a new benchtop.

dalee
 
A "hobby mill" is just for playing around on, if you want to machine steel, titanum etc. you need a bigger better machine. I know that high school work shops replace the equipment every once and a while as well as universities. They are a good place to check out for equipment sales, a friend of mine got a gas forge and a good metal lathe really cheep from one of the Unies. back home. As for bits they are a "consumable" part so just buy the best you can afford and try to be nice to them. :):thumbup:
 
The above info is good info.

Small is too small

The Home Shop Machinist is a UK based magazine, so I expect their advertisers would be local to you.
http://www.homeshopmachinist.net/links

Even then they deal with really small projects, so they have small machines too.




If you search ,or ask in shop talk, this has been asked and answered lots of times.

I say at a minimum go big enough to use R8 tooling.
 
Last edited:
Charlie Mike said:
Can you post a pic of an example? Just for size reference.
Click to expand...

When you do your research on Mills, check the spindle specs.

M2, means Morse taper2
usualy on the cheap and small

R8 is bigger and the standard in all you are likely to do, therefore, you can keep all those holders and such for when you step up to a larger size.


Those Shereline $ are pretty high for such small little machines...


Downsides of round column
Try to find a head, or table (knee) that will go up and down on dovetailed gibs.
Suppose you want to drill and ream a hole.
You start with a short centre drill, then finish with a much much longer chucking reamer.

If you unbolt the head on a round column to move it up or down, you lose the position it was it as the head rotates on the round column..


The HP ratings of all motors can be suspect...
12 amps at 110 is 1 HP ish...
if a 3 amp motor is listed at 1 or 1 1/2 HP, something is wrong...



You don't have to go very big to get R8
Look at these 2, one has R8, one has MT
http://www.mini-lathe.com/mini_mill/Versions/versions.htm

But no matter how big you do go, you will wish you went one bigger...
 
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