Military lock bar question

[10fingers]

I received my new military a few day ago and while really looking it over today I noticed the lock bar only contacts the blade at the very bottom (at the very bottom behind the choil)

You can see where it contacts here


I do have another military to compare it to but its so worn in I can't really tell.

Can someone check and see if your military is the same? It seems like it should contact it more then just the very lower portion?

ETA: or am I seeing things wrong here and it has more contact then I think?

 

[JNewell]

That's fine and as expected with most linerlock and framelock knives.

 

[10fingers]

That's fine and as expected with most linerlock and framelock knives.

Thanks, I never thought about it or looked but I guess I just assumed the entire or at least most of the lock bar contacted

 

[Vegas Blade]

I have my M4 in my pocket and it contacts all the way across. Not the same though as it has the heavier Ti CRK Intregal Lock Bar. I will check my other Millies to see. Now I'm interested.

 

[10fingers]

Thanks for checking ^

 

[Invective]

I think as long as you have solid lock-up and aren't able to wiggle it or dis-engage the lock with your hands then it should be fine. My Military and Strider SMF lock up the same way yours does but I haven't had any problems at all, and I've put my Millie through the paces outside.

 

[dr_fosg8]

Looks right to me. Mr. Emerson explains it here, http://emersonknives.com/blog/emerson-knife-anatomy/

 

[Evan8523]

That is how liner locks are supposed to be.

 

[amen74]

Since it is new, I would think it just needs a little time to wear in some. If lockup is solid, I wouldn't worry.

 

[marthinus]

In depth explanation on liner and framelock execution here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1145008-Heavy-duty-folder-Titanium-versus-Steel

 

[JNewell]

Thanks, I never thought about it or looked but I guess I just assumed the entire or at least most of the lock bar contacted

If it adds to your confidence in the knife, the locking leaf is stainless steel. The matte finish makes some people assume it's titanium. Being made from stainless steel, and being short and recessed into the G10, it's very strong.

 

[10fingers]

In depth explanation on liner and framelock execution here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1145008-Heavy-duty-folder-Titanium-versus-Steel

Thank you very much :thumbup:

very good and informative read

Marthinus from your post.. I see plenty of Military folders with locks that slide toward release back to the flatter area on the blade contact. This with simple spine pressure from my hands so there is no telling how that would go for the user if it was a sharp blow to the spine. "

I actually have a military that does this exactly.. So peening it is the fix? I have actually been looking for a larger stop pin to correct it because if I stick two or three sheets of copy paper between the stop pin and blade it renews the rock solid lockup and moves the lock bar back to about 50%

Should I try the stop pin fix if I can find one or just go about having it peened?

 

[JDunn709]

Another good resource on locks: (link)

 

[kniferbro]

If it adds to your confidence in the knife, the locking leaf is stainless steel. The matte finish makes some people assume it's titanium. Being made from stainless steel, and being short and recessed into the G10, it's very strong.

Does shortness really increase strength? Like a longer piece of material is easier to bend/break than a shorter piece of equally thick material, or is it just harder to get leverage on the shorter piece?

 

[marthinus]

Thank you very much :thumbup:

very good and informative read

Marthinus from your post.. I see plenty of Military folders with locks that slide toward release back to the flatter area on the blade contact. This with simple spine pressure from my hands so there is no telling how that would go for the user if it was a sharp blow to the spine. "

I actually have a military that does this exactly.. So peening it is the fix? I have actually been looking for a larger stop pin to correct it because if I stick two or three sheets of copy paper between the stop pin and blade it renews the rock solid lockup and moves the lock bar back to about 50%

Should I try the stop pin fix if I can find one or just go about having it peened?

Firstly I would, if possible, send it to Spyderco for Warranty Services with a letter explaining what you experience.

You can try three things. One is to clean the lock face area and see if this helps, or apply some oil so that the lock might slip a bit further on the lock face to re-set. Two is peening and the last is to increase the pressure on the lock. What sometimes happen from what I have heard is the lock just needs to set again and slightly more pressure can cause this, however, you will not be able to disengage the lock that easily any more.

Apart from those a slightly larger stop pin can help.

 

[marthinus]

double tap