Military on Belt sander?

They do at the factory.

Do you plan to?
 
knifenut1013 said:
They do at the factory.

Do you plan to?
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I was hoping you would chime in!!!:thumbup:
Yes I do. As a matter of fact I plan on doing all my spydercos, ESEE, machetes, and Everything else except for Moras and other scandis.
Convex just seems to be a very good edge for my needs, and with time and patience can be made scary sharp, like the way you did your endura.
What is your opinion on this matter?

I plan on sticking to 600, 800, 1000, and leather on my HF sander.
 
First, convex like my endura that was hand sharpened is vastly different from what will be done on a belt sander. You can do things by hand that are simply not possible on a grinder.

Second, make sure you always use the proper amount of convex shape for the blade grind. For example: you would use more pressure on thicker blades and light to no pressure on thin blades like the millie.

The belt sander will flex at the slightest touch so for a thin blade like the millie sharpen like a normal V grind and it will automatically break the shoulders and provide enough "micro convex" to improve cutting performance.

The problem most have with convex is understanding its not for every edge but at the same time it is. Shape of the bevel is very important and might take some time to get a feel for that is if you don't have it already. Practice A LOT on cheap knives first, one mistake on power equipment can ruin a blade.

Your belt selection seems good but you might find the leather belt to be not that great as it likes to "flop around" and sometimes dull edges. A coarser 320 belt would come in handy for repair and reprofile too.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Your belt selection seems good but you might find the leather belt to be not that great as it likes to "flop around" and sometimes dull edges. A coarser 320 belt would come in handy for repair and reprofile too.
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Thank you for your advice!
I was actually gonna PM you with these questions, but didn't know if you'd have the time to answer.
I actually do have 320 and even 220, but after damaging my Leek, I'm a little worried about using rough grits on my knives.
Also, you are so right about the leather belt. I hate the fact that it flops around so much, but I don't really know of an alternative aside from hand stropping, but every time I hand strop I dull my knives.
Do you think maybe a felt belt would be better?

BTW here's my ruined leek:o
450629843_photobucket_21083_.jpg
 
230grain would probably be the one to talk to, don't know if its cork or felt belts that work better.
 
I have quite a bit of grinding experience, but have never used the HF. Sounds like you have a simple problem of the belt not being tight enough. Is there no provision for tension adjustment?

The "Big Boys" all use belt grinders for a reason. If there was something better they would use it instead.

I'm very sorry about your Leek, Trugracie. Looks like you needed a little more practice before attempting that. We all make mistakes. Try not to feel too bad, and chalk it up to experience gained.

I would like to help you learn to use that machine properly. I really think that with just a little help you will be turning out convex grinds of whatever shape you choose, and the sharpest edges possible.

First, do you have other knives that you can practice on? Old kitchen and pocket knives are perfect for learning how quickly you need to move the blade across the belt. It's no "gimmie" to use a belt grinder, but anyone can do it with a little coaching. I've helped quite a few learn to do it with perfect results.
 
I think you might want to next try convexing an ax or machete. I found that working the thicker ax edge and the longer machete edge helped with all of my grinding. I have HF 1" x 30" and the Grizzly version. I do have the leather belt, but I have found I need to try to polish the bevel transitions instead of trying to match the bevel in order to make it happy.
 
I haven't found a better system than a belt sander. I just keep a jug of icewater nearby and dip the blade before and after each pass.

Here's my wife's manix2 S90v that I sharpen on the belt sander. I touch it up with the 20 micron belt and the leather belt w/green compound.

mmanix-cf1.jpg


I wanted a lower angle on this Humphrey W2 blade, so I reground it with the 120 grit zirconia, then the 320, then 20 micron, then leather belt w/compound:

lon1.jpg


On bigger blades I use a 20-degree bubblejig on top of a lee valley machinist clamp. The magnet on the bubblejig allows me to spin it so I can sharpen both sides without removing the clamp:

bubblejig-sharpen1.jpg

bubblejig-sharpen2.jpg
 
trugracie said:
Thank you for your advice!
I was actually gonna PM you with these questions, but didn't know if you'd have the time to answer.
I actually do have 320 and even 220, but after damaging my Leek, I'm a little worried about using rough grits on my knives.
Also, you are so right about the leather belt. I hate the fact that it flops around so much, but I don't really know of an alternative aside from hand stropping, but every time I hand strop I dull my knives.
Do you think maybe a felt belt would be better?

BTW here's my ruined leek:o
450629843_photobucket_21083_.jpg
Click to expand...

FYI, If you contact Kershaw customer service, they'll replace that blade for you free of charge.
 
grizzled gizzard said:
I would like to help you learn to use that machine properly. I really think that with just a little help you will be turning out convex grinds of whatever shape you choose, and the sharpest edges possible.
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Thank you for the offer to help. And yes, I will be needing your advice very soon. I just need to go to my local goodwill and pick up some of those cheap $2-$5 knives.

ChapmanPreferred said:
I think you might want to next try convexing an ax or machete. I found that working the thicker ax edge and the longer machete edge helped with all of my grinding. .
Click to expand...
I actually do my machetes now with my belt sander. However I find folders to be a different ball game.

gak said:
I haven't found a better system than a belt sander. I just keep a jug of icewater nearby and dip the blade before and after each pass.
Click to expand...
I usually keep a cup with water, and dip my knife when it feels a little warm. The ice is a great idea do. Thank you!

Heiheit said:
FYI, If you contact Kershaw customer service, they'll replace that blade for you free of charge.
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Reeeealyyy!
I need to go ahead and do that then. What should I tell them though? That I messed up the blade on my belt sander?
 
If you're having issues with leather belt flop on the HF sanders, try using the platen. The tension adjuster on the HF is horrible. I use the platen and set it about 1/16" away from the belt. This little space allows it to give some and keep the convex shape. FWIW, I haven't found convex or flat beveled blades to cut differently enough to notice. I just use the HF sander without a platen behind the belt because it's easier to avoid heating the blade that way.
 
As far as I know Kershaw is the only manufacturer in the industry who warranties blatant customer mistakes. Sometimes I with they would draw a line, but it hasn't happened yet. Sounds like you owe them another purchase :)
 
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