military screw stripping ?

E

eduard

Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
100
hi
i just watched a military review on youtube and there was guy who said that if you take the military apart and put it back together the screws would get useless after a very short time ... he said that this might be because of the fact that the screws do not get any kind of heat treatment ..? is anybody here who had similar problems ? because i kinda worry about that since i was planning to get me a military as my FIRST SPYDERCO ..i also always heard good things about this knife except in this review ..thanks already (sorry for my english)
 
It's a non issue, as long as you take care during assembly and don't over tighten the screws and use good quality Torx bit's you should have a problem with stripped threads or messed up heads.

Bo
 
There's really no need to disassemble. You can clean with hot water + soap + a toothbrush. Plus, it voids the warranty to disassemble it.
 
eduard said:
hi
i just watched a military review on youtube and there was guy who said that if you take the military apart and put it back together the screws would get useless after a very short time ... he said that this might be because of the fact that the screws do not get any kind of heat treatment ..? is anybody here who had similar problems ? because i kinda worry about that since i was planning to get me a military as my FIRST SPYDERCO ..i also always heard good things about this knife except in this review ..thanks already (sorry for my english)
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Total, utter, undiluted nonsense. :thumbdn: :thumbdn: :thumbdn:
 
i would not take it apart,as for spys screws they are soft kinda like aluminum,get the mill..............
 
I have taken plenty of Spyderco knives apart. I use good tools and I am appropriately careful. I have not ever had a problem with a screw in a Spyderco knife.
 
I've never stripped a screw on a Spydie but in general small screws can only take so much torque. Proper use of thread sealant will prevent stripped screws. There's simply no need to over tighten them.
 
Stripped screws are not uncommon on any folding knife. That is one reason among others why some makers decided to change their pivot screws entirely. If you use the wrong tool to disassemble any knife, the chances of the person turning the drivers messing something up is 100%. This would be operator error and not the fault of the knife.

You really should not need to disasemble the Military. Provided you purchase the knife from an actual shop that sells mainly knives, they can pretty much assure you a flawless knife.
 
dsmegst said:
I've never stripped a screw on a Spydie but in general small screws can only take so much torque. Proper use of thread sealant will prevent stripped screws. There's simply no need to over tighten them.
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Correct, all of these screws are relatively fragile. They have very fine threads and small shaft diameters. Use of the right tools and the right technique is mandatory for all of these fasteners, regardless of the brand of knife they're in.
 
No reason to take apart a Military, just deep sink it with hot water and blow it out with air then let it dry.
 
Ankerson said:
No reason to take apart a Military, just deep sink it with hot water and blow it out with air then let it dry.
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In general, I agree, but the framelock versions run better (IMO/YMMV) with CRK grease, and that means a detail strip, clean and relube. I emphasize: YMMV. :)
 
JNewell said:
In general, I agree, but the framelock versions run better (IMO/YMMV) with CRK grease, and that means a detail strip, clean and relube. I emphasize: YMMV. :)
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I agree with this (and your other posts in this thread), BUT I think we can all agree that any screw will make a finite number of trips into and out of a knife before it wears out.

Simply put it is metal on metal contact, and in the absence of lubricant, the wear rate is increased.

That said, the only fasteners I have ever used that are done after only one trip in are specialty bolts that are intentionally stretched as part of the torquing procedure. I have a great deal of experience with other specialty fasteners made for various aluminum, magnesium, and titanium alloys...all can be reused a few times if appropriate care is exercised.

This sort of thread topic always makes me recall the last time I saw someone sharing a "great deal" they found in the form of a complete set of torx drivers for under 10 dollars...I wonder how many of these "deals" result in posts about cheap screws that strip easily....folks, it ain't the screws that are bad!
 
LOL, first time I read your post I mis-read "finite" (agree) for "infinite" and was thinking "what...???" :D

I will say, on drivers, and having used both good and bad quality tools for more than four decades and having more sunk in tools now than some people have in their houses, that the $7 Husky Torx driver set I now have three copies of is every bit as good as the ~40 Wiha set I have in terms of snug fit, and exceeds any other Torx drivers I've got. Shocked me when I first tried them and still amazes me every time I use one. One of the risks there, however, is that the factory making it may change from time to time, so there's no assurance they are as good today as they were when I bought them several years ago. With Wiha, you pretty much know what you're going to get, and that it will be the same as it was in earlier years.
 
I've never had a problem with the screws using the proper torx. I will say, however, that my ti m4 military was received by me (i'm the original owner) with cammed out screw heads on the scales, so much so that should it ever need disassembling I'm probably going to have to send it to spyderco. Not a huge issue as it was, otherwise, perfect and I've no need to take it apart yet.
 
The screws are good enough to hold the folders together but not really if you intend to dismantle it frequently.

I stripped a Millie screw cause the original owner put thread locker chemical thingy on it. That being said I now see there is no reason to take mine apart. Boiling water then blow air. Finish with a good soak in the hot Malaysian sunny weather then I'm good to go.

However I would love it if Spyderco used larger screws instead of the little ones. Always liked large screws on my folders.

Any of you guys know how to take off the lanyard tube of a Millie? Never quite got the hang of it.
 
JNewell said:
LOL, first time I read your post I mis-read "finite" (agree) for "infinite" and was thinking "what...???" :D

I will say, on drivers, and having used both good and bad quality tools for more than four decades and having more sunk in tools now than some people have in their houses, that the $7 Husky Torx driver set I now have three copies of is every bit as good as the ~40 Wiha set I have in terms of snug fit, and exceeds any other Torx drivers I've got. Shocked me when I first tried them and still amazes me every time I use one. One of the risks there, however, is that the factory making it may change from time to time, so there's no assurance they are as good today as they were when I bought them several years ago. With Wiha, you pretty much know what you're going to get, and that it will be the same as it was in earlier years.
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I have a Wiha set and a Craftsman set.

The Wiha set is leaps and bounds better (Stronger) though.

I twisted the #6 in the Craftsman set (Read bent) on some very tight screws while the #6 Wiha turned them with no problem.
 
Ankerson said:
I have a Wiha set and a Craftsman set.

The Wiha set is leaps and bounds better (Stronger) though.

I twisted the #6 in the Craftsman set (Read bent) on some very tight screws while the #6 Wiha turned them with no problem.
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The Craftsman Torx drivers I have are junk. The Wiha is great. And the Husky is as good as the Wiha...go figger.


Cotherion said:
The screws are good enough to hold the folders together but not really if you intend to dismantle it frequently.

I stripped a Millie screw cause the original owner put thread locker chemical thingy on it. That being said I now see there is no reason to take mine apart. Boiling water then blow air. Finish with a good soak in the hot Malaysian sunny weather then I'm good to go.

However I would love it if Spyderco used larger screws instead of the little ones. Always liked large screws on my folders.

Any of you guys know how to take off the lanyard tube of a Millie? Never quite got the hang of it.
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I assume you mean you "stripped" the Torx head, not the threads on the screw shaft?
 
Yup, heads kaput. Not the thread. Other side came off easy. New torx screwdriver even. I learnt it is not necessary to open it up to clean it. That was from my early days :)

Wouldn't mind bigger sized screws on them though :)
 
Cotherion said:
. I learnt it is not necessary to open it up to clean it. That was from my early days :)
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obviously some people will disagree but i think complete opening is required every once in a while if you use your knives. i've yet to have stripped srew on any folder regardless the brand. this will eventualy happen but not yet. disassembling my stretch CF allowed me to see that i had a severe pitting issue under the washers, imho on folders with non stainless steels or tool steels, complete disassembly is unavoidable, there is always some moisture that goes beneath the scales and the blade and can start rusting, once rust is there, if you don't take care of it it can only spread ...
 
eduard said:
hi
i just watched a military review on youtube and there was guy who said that if you take the military apart and put it back together the screws would get useless after a very short time ... he said that this might be because of the fact that the screws do not get any kind of heat treatment ..? is anybody here who had similar problems ? because i kinda worry about that since i was planning to get me a military as my FIRST SPYDERCO ..i also always heard good things about this knife except in this review ..thanks already (sorry for my english)
Click to expand...

Probably because like many people he does not use the correct tools for the screws Spyderco uses. As a typical example someone sees the small T-6 size screws and assumes they are hex head but finds that with some force the hex wrench turns freely. They conclude the screw is stripped and cheap when in fact they used a hex wrench instead of a torx wrench. Another thing I've run into is someone that uses a torx but the wrong size. The pivot is a good example because many assume its a T10 size when in fact its a T15 at least on my Military.

STR
 
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