Recommendation? Mill for folder parts

H

Harley Boatman

Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
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I would like to get into making folders and I've realized I'm going to need a mill for that. I'd rather not spend an arm and a leg so my question is this: Would it be a horrible mistake to buy the ~$800 Harbor Freight mill?

I haven't done a whole lot of research yet so I'm not sure what a used mill would go for or the cost of tooling. I just saw $800 vs ~$3000 and thought I'd be better off with the less expensive option.
 
You probably don't *need* a mill. What operation are you most concerned about try to conduct without a mill?
 
It can always be done without a mill, but boy does a mill make it better..... and for so many other things.
 
Go to littlemachineshop dot com and look at their minimills. Much upgraded and more precise
 
yaw said:
You probably don't *need* a mill. What operation are you most concerned about try to conduct without a mill?
Click to expand...
I figured I could mill things down to get things to the right thickness and I'd be able to mill out a thumb hole in the blade (I'm thinking something like a spyderco)

I guess my main thought is that I could be more precise with a mill than just a drill press and grinder
 
Precision ground steel works pretty well for nice parallel-sided flat stock. You can also get slightly differing thickness of some steel types from Alpha Knife Supply to accommodate washers. USA Knife Maker sells a lapping kit you can use to dial in standoff thickness. A mill would certainly be nice, but you can still make some great knives without one. I guess I am just trying to say: Don't let not having a mill prevent you from getting into making folding knives.
 
Mills are a buy once and cry once type of thing. Not including those who go from a benchtop to a floor standing mill. Spend the money. Do not buy a round column mill. Budget money equal to the cost of the mill (if used) for tools. don't skimp. Buy carbide! High speed steel doesn't work on Ti.
 
As someone who uses a mill to make their knives... Look for other solutions for thinning blade stock, at least. I agree with Sean Yaw Sean Yaw on this. Buying precision ground steel and designing around that thickness measurement saves a lot of headaches, unless you either have a surface grinder or plan on sending the stock to a shop first.
 
I've made a couple of folders, I think New Jersey Steel precision grinds if you ask for it. I cut all the pieces with a band saw and the smaller pieces with a coping saw.
 
Wow! Those are impressive looking mills. The bench mills seem top notch. They also have good prices on the needed accessories. Yes, it isn't as cheap priced as a HF mill, but it is a real mill.
For a knifemaker, this one impressed me:
Add about $1000 of additional options (power feed, collets, drill chuck, vise, end mills, etc.) and it will do most all tasks.
 
a huge thing to keep in mind in the knife makers mill needs is not max cutter it can use cause it will suck to use it. its the max RPM. carbid 1/8 3/16 and 1/4 inch end mills liek speed and will cut cleaner and with less chatter then a 1/2 or 3/4 inch HSS cutter. that 727 looks nice and if i had to replace my bridgeport and mini mill to have just one might be that way to go but make note when i got my mini mill it was under 600$ and i got my used bridgeport ffor 1600$. i got the belt drive from LMS on my mini to bump the speed up and myb BP top speed is 5600RPM so handy for smaller cutters. i think lowe speed is liek 80 or 120. im hardely ever in any low speed gear cause of the most used cutters. one of the other things i use the miini mill for is flycutting scales and blocks as dead flat parts make fit ups so nice
 
The PM727v is back ordered with no firm eta as far as I know. I ordered 6 mo ago and will call tomorrow to check.
 
I use the ER25 collets. I find them easier and quicker to use than R8 type. I do not find need for a drill chuck the ER collets will adapt to all drill sizes.
 
I have the Little Machine Shop 3990. It does all that I need it do do with making folders. Mine is upgraded with the DRO (highly recommend) and the X-axis power feed. Plan to spend a bit on tooling to get the job done right.
 
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