Milling Slabs Flat?

Michael J. Spangler

Michael J. Spangler

Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
2,181
alright guys, what kind of a bit do you use? i don't have uch experience with a mill, but i think it would be great to use it to flatten some handle materials dead on.

it would be nice to have something large and make one pass

what about a shell mill?? or a fly cutter? would those work for that aplication?? thanks a lot:thumbup:
 
I use a 3/4" inch four flute HSS milling cutter. I have a 2" face mill I could use but wood has enough give in it that it bows in the vise while milling and causes a belly in the finished scales. I make several passis w/ the smaller bit and get good results. In fact I did 10 pair of walnut scales that way today.
 
Hmm, I've been using a fly cutter, but maybe I should consider trying a smaller end mill. I'd have to get a reduced shank for 3/4" though.
 
first of u need to make your cuts in a certain matter. i was a tool and die maker for years. the best results in true square stock is to use a face mill ( the carbine insert type) and the lenght of a nd mill for the ends. the order of the cuts is important. first square your table and then the vise with a indicator. place the stock in the vise with parallels to rise it above the jaws so not to cut it. now insert the face mill. the top of the stock will be first( th top is will be the wide side). only mill till all is cut to sam finsh. now pull out and mill one of the sides. then the other side to the size you want. the bottom will be the last cut with face cutter to size. leave the stock in the vise and change to the end mill. cut the stock with th lenght of the end mill. both sides. you have a square peice of stock.
 
If you're going to mill wood, take the same amount off both sides, as it will bow if surfaced on one side only, as the wood will either gain or lose moisture content from the newly cut face.
 
"If you're going to mill wood, take the same amount off both sides, as it will bow if surfaced on one side only, as the wood will either gain or lose moisture content from the newly cut face."

Really - man I guess I have screwed up for years then. I have never noticed any bowing from cutting one side only.
 
Lucky you...
If you glue it down right away, you won't see it.
Let it sit for a week after after cutting, and it might.
If the woods moisture content and roo relative humidity are the same, you are good to go.
I've got some hardwoods that were air dried for over 10 years, and were still not dry...
 
sorry that was for milling steel. i don't really know wood. next time i'll read the whole thing before commenting.
 
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