Millling on the frame lock under the clip

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Sep 6, 2022
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Hi, I am new to this hobby and was just wondering if someone can explain exactly the purpose of the little hollow I see on some frame lock knives under the pocket clip. Thanks in advance and sorry if this question has already been asked numerous times. I googled it but couldn't find an answer.
 
All that is, is a cutout to remove some material making it easier to disengage the frame lock.

But whether it not it is actually needed could be debated, as ive seen someframe locks that do not have it..
 
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All that is, in theory, is a cutout to remove some material making it easier to disengage the frame lock.

But whether it not it is actually needed is up for debate, as plenty of frame locks do not have it.. probably just more for asthetics
Thank you so much for your prompt response. I understand now.
Have a nice day
 
Hi, I am new to this hobby and was just wondering if someone can explain exactly the purpose of the little hollow I see on some frame lock knives under the pocket clip. Thanks in advance and sorry if this question has already been asked numerous times. I googled it but couldn't find an answer.

This is the most important part of an RIL (Reeve Integral Lock). The entire Ti lockbar acts as a spring. It is milled out where you highlight for calibration of the strength of the spring - if more material is taken away, the spring is weaker. Some RIL knives have it hidden on the blade side (like the two Cheburkovs on the left below), but all have it.

i-TGcMX7b-X3.jpg


Beautiful knife, BTW, one of my favorites.
 
All that is, in theory, is a cutout to remove some material making it easier to disengage the frame lock.

But whether it not it is actually needed is up for debate, as plenty of frame locks do not have it.. probably just more for asthetics
I've never seen a single framelock without lockbar relief milling either on the outside like pictured or internally...care to show an example?
 
I can't imagine the stiffness of a full frame lock without a relief cutout.

Probably be extremely difficult to open and almost impossible to unlock if you did get it open.

It's an important feature.
 
I've never seen a single framelock without lockbar relief milling either on the outside like pictured or internally...care to show an example?
I know there were few customs and midtechs made that way including by at least one knifemaker on the forum but can't for the life of me remember what they were (could farid. farid. Knives have made some)? A similar idea though, Spyderco made the cutout of the Tuff thicker and lock bar shorter for the sake of strength.

--
Adding to ferider ferider 's post, lock bar length also matters when it comes to strength.

Edit: poor choice of comment removed
 
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I've never seen a single framelock without lockbar relief milling either on the outside like pictured or internally...care to show an example?
Should have phrased that better.. your right, is needed, and any quality framelock will have one. Cutting grass at the moment, but if I'm not mistaken, I do have 2 obscure branded Aliexpress steel frame locks that do not have any relief milling.

Although the frame lock itself is slightly thinner than your average ZT or CRK, I've never had trouble disengaging them. Again, will try to dig them up and post picks if I ever get done weed eating lol..
(Edited original post for clarity)
 
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The point is they are pushing the brand and models as hard use while making the weak point as weak as any other knife, not whether the average RIL is likely to fail.
Except I've stabbed and pried with some of those knives and never had an issue. So what are you doing above that type of use that you think would cause them to fail?
 
This is the most important part of an RIL (Reeve Integral Lock). The entire Ti lockbar acts as a spring. It is milled out where you highlight for calibration of the strength of the spring - if more material is taken away, the spring is weaker. Some RIL knives have it hidden on the blade side (like the two Cheburkovs on the left below), but all have it.



Beautiful knife, BTW, one of my favorites.
Thank you for enlightening me. I didn't know they could also be on the other side, and your picture is a good example.
 
Should have phrased that better.. your right, is needed, and any quality framelock will have one. Cutting grass at the moment, but if I'm not mistaken, I do have 2 obscure branded Aliexpress steel frame locks that do not have any relief milling.

Although the frame lock itself is slightly thinner than your average ZT or CRK, I've never had trouble disengaging them. Again, will try to dig them up and post picks if I ever get done weed eating lol..
(Edited original post for clarity)
Nevertheless, weed eating keeps you sharper than the other one LOL. Thanks for clarifying though
 
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