mini butcher's steel

Burchtree

KnifeMaker & Moderator
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Anyone have an idea where I can find a good, small sharpening steel? I love using steels vs. diamonds as they don't scratch as bad and am looking for something to incorporate in to a sheath.
 
I have a 4" long mini-steel
but it's serratted

very like this one:
http://madeinsheffield.com/view_item.asp?productid=1990


Since you're a knifemaker
why not adapt/make/harden your own?

I've often thought of getting a steel punch from hardware
& polishing / rehardening the working length.



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Thanks -- something like that is about what I'm after. Making one would be fun, but it is something I would want to add to some outdoor camp sheaths and I'm not sure I'd want to make a lot of them! :D
 
:)
Rod stock - heat - quench

"Hock Burnisher Rod"
"A very simple high quality burnisher. This 3/8 of an inch by 6 inch burnisher is hardened to RC 64 and polished to a mirror finish. Handle may be easily fitted. "
EE-1101375.gif
53.375.jpg



$13
http://japanwoodworker.com/product....3CHTSDMFC&pf_id=53.375&dept_id=13094#stayhere

with ($18) or without ($11) handles
http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/scraper_burnishers.htm



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<:eek:> THEY call me
'Dean' :)-fYI-fWiW-iIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TiA-YW-GL-HH-HBd-IBSCUtWS-theWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Noobee <> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
I had a buddy of mine show me how he "steeled" his small pocketknives. He used the shaft of a Snap On screwdriver. I guess they really heat treat their stuff pretty hard. It sure seemed to work pretty good.

Also the company I have bought a couple of butcher steels from is out of Germany. They are the F. Dick company. I think their website is www.fdick.de I really like the F. Dick steel I have; it is super quality. I do remember a smaller one being in their catalog. GOOD LUCK
 
ddean said:
:)
Rod stock - heat - quench

"Hock Burnisher Rod"
"A very simple high quality burnisher. This 3/8 of an inch by 6 inch burnisher is hardened to RC 64 and polished to a mirror finish. Handle may be easily fitted. "
EE-1101375.gif
53.375.jpg



$13
http://japanwoodworker.com/product....3CHTSDMFC&pf_id=53.375&dept_id=13094#stayhere

with ($18) or without ($11) handles
http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/scraper_burnishers.htm



~
~~~~~~~~~
<:eek:> THEY call me
'Dean' :)-fYI-fWiW-iIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TiA-YW-GL-HH-HBd-IBSCUtWS-theWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Noobee <> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D



Oh that is nice, thank you for posting the info and link. I'm going to get one of those.
 
Never tried it but I heard a push rod from a car engine can make a good steel. Anybody know the specs on how hard they are?
 
Interesting link -- I didn't know that a smooth rod could work as well. I'll have to make one and check it out. How does it work compared to the striated rods?
 
Burchtree said:
Interesting link -- I didn't know that a smooth rod could work as well. I'll have to make one and check it out. How does it work compared to the striated rods?

No one with good knives should be using striated or rough steels. The whole purpose of a steel is to realign the edge of an already sharp knife. It maintains the sharp edge, requiring less sharpening (which, ultimately shortens the life of a knife). That's essentially why they are called "Butchers Steels". The purpose of a steel is NOT to sharpen the edge by grinding it.

Lot's of theories abound as to why all culinary sets come with striated steels, but it most probably it is what the public expects as the have no idea how to use it or why they use it. They assume, correctly, that it's a sharpening device, albeit it a poor one.

The proper use of a butchers steel is before and after using the knife. The angle isn't important as long as you hold the angle consistent through the whole stroke. No pressure, let the weight of the knife do it as you pull back with your arm.
 
Butcher's steel & burnishing steel are 2 different things.

Butcher's steel is an intermediate sharpener--
my term--
it is a file/burnisher combo.
it cannot easily sharpen a dull blade,
but it can help keep the edge 'aligned'
[knocking down dents]
& do 'light' sharpening.
Used often during a day of cutting,
it wears down the blade pretty quickly.
Someone once mentioned that most kitchen / butcher duty
is using the restaurant's (meat counter's)
cheap cost-saving knives that are often abused;
So wear doesn't matter.
The butcher's steel is a compromise sharpening solution.

The burnishiing steel is more familiar to woodworkers
for scrapers, carving tools, etc.
Specificllly for final fine edge alignment after sharpening,
or -before- resorting to abrasive sharpening.

A forum search on 'burnishing' or 'burnish', or 'steeling'
will pull up a bunch of threads.
[I don't thing we can search for the phrase 'steel the edge']

Here's an older reference:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3262579&postcount=112


And one from this very forum:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367272



~
~~~~~~~~~
<:eek:> THEY call me
'Dean' :)-fYI-fWiW-iIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TiA-YW-GL-HH-HBd-IBSCUtWS-theWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Noobee <> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
Seems that most of us have burnishing rod material at hand
all over our house

I grew up thinking of it as cheap-stuff


Chrome metal has a hardness greater than steel

there are some other metallic options too
but I'm going to try to find some practical samples first

The trick is to find real, unalloyed chrome plating

alloy plating will be softer
nickle plating will be softer
some 'cheap' chrome plating is too thin &
too poorly adheared to the supporting metal

Most towns offer chrome plating for vehicle customizers
So burnisher customizers be alert

Good quality tools that are chromed have a good chance
of having good hard thick plating

I just picked up a small 'chromed' tool extension rod (6" x ~3/8")
that works just fine :D
~$5

I'll be keeping my eyes open for a tough small screwdriver
or similar size (chrome wire 'baskets' are everywhere)
to use for a truly portable burnisher

Any solid auto- or boat- or rope- or home- hardware that is real chromed
is a good possibility for burnishing material

Maybe even your truck bumper !?



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Remember that the steel needs to be smooth-without bumps or gouges.
Chrome plating is about RC 74, if I remember correctly. Many steel parts are plated with "hard chrome"-same hardness, but applied directly to steel to build up a wear resistant surface. Decorative chrome is applied to steel oner a layer of copper and a layer of nickel to whiten the color only. Any polished and hardened drill rod should work. Most quality screwdriver shanks are plated with hard chrome, but they are not generally polished very smooth.
Bill
 
HandAmerican also offers small steels, grooved or smooth, no handles.

I have a 6" for use in a pouch, but it is more of a burnisher than a sharpening steel. It is 1/2 grooved and 1/2 smooth, but you have to hold it up to the light to see the grooves. Not agressive at all.

Quality screwdriver shafts work quite well also.

Rob
 
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