Mini Commander for lock evaluation

STR

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I get this kind of thing often. In fact this morning I recieved two liner locks and another knife. Both liner locks are needing an opinion on the lock and my recommendation.

This one is a fairly new looking Mini Commander by Emerson knives. I happen to know the owner of this knife and he is not a real hard core user but simply carries his knives keeping them in very good condition never abusing them. Nothing but normal use has ever been done to this knife but he felt the lock was getting questionable.

I've taken some scans of it. I've always liked the ergonomics of this little folder. I think my take on these thin locks is fairly well known so I'll pass on further comment there.

I will say that one of the problems with knives made this way with thinner liners mated to a system where each washer on the pivot barrel is .035" in thickness or greater can create its own unique situation.

When I recieved this knife as is typical of many Emersons I get the pivot was just sloppy lose. I could easily turn the head of the screw with my finger nail and lateral blade play was quite evident. This is not a good idea with set ups done this way because now you have widened that already wider than normal gap between the blade and the washer on each side so that its dangerously close to being and open space ample enough for the lock to get into it.

When the lock leaves the contact interface on a folder well worn like this one what that can lead to is a defeat of the lock where you wedge it into the space where the washer sits. It can permanently damage your contact if not cause chipping of the lock face and I've seen this as well as bent up mangled locks due to this.

My first recommendation is to send this knife back to Emerson and have them either replace it or repair it under warranty. I believe its time since as you can see the lock has traveled to the very edge of the contact on the opposing side liner. The good news is that so long as you keep your blade from developing lateral AKA side to side play by letting your pivot get lose the lock is still doing its job. The bad is that eventually its going to just leave the blade altogether and to be honest it nearly does this now even with light openings. When I waved it open I nearly made it leave the blade at that point so its very close to doing it already.

I can fix it. But I can also guarantee you Ernie will void your warranty in a heartbeat if I do it even though its the exact same thing he'll do when they get it at EKI.

STR
 
OK - it didn't leave the factory this way - but I have created a frame lock that does what the liner lock in your photo shows ,i.e. the lock moved all the way behind the blade.
Basically I took the blade out of a Kershaw 1635 and installed it in a 1636 frame and vice-versa. Very satisfied with the frankenstein 1636 blade in the 1635 handle - this is probably going to become my EveryDayUser for the next few years.
Problem is that the 1635 blade installed in the 1636 frame/handle - works just fine -except that the frame moves all the way behind the blade when I grip it to actually cut something. It un-locks just fine - I don't think this is going to lead to any safety issues ??? since there's a great big chunk of Titanium behind the blade at that point. I know you can't actually see this - but is there any reason to worry about this kind of lock up? There is no side to side or up/down play in the blade lock up.
The only reason I'm concerned is that I would like to give this to a neighbor who has done me a cou[ple of favors and don't want to gift him with a defective knife?
 
Its a frame lock you say? I've seen some CQC12s and other .125 or thinner frame locks that the locks travelled all the way across the tang on that have lasted and lasted for years after they could no longer self correct. I don't feel there is any worry the blade is going to close on your friend and I doubt the knife will give him issue there.

What typically happens is the lock wears little by little to eventually lead to vertical blade play. That could be years down the road on a thicker lock like that. I once got a CQC12 mailed to me for a clip. I informed the owner then that its lock was still working but that it may need sent in to Emerson for an adjustment in the future because it could not travel any farther and had basically worn as much as it could before smacking the opposing G10 side every time you opened it. I forget now how long it was but like two years or so later plus or minus I got that knife back because he bent the clip and it needed replaced. The lock up was still the exact same way, it still felt solid and he used it as a duty knife daily the entire time.

If it tightens up in the pivot and there is not vertical play or bad sticking to close it I'd say its fine. If its a stainles steel frame lock it going to wear even longer than an equal thickness or greater thickness titanium one so its for sure ok then I'd say.

I withhold being held accountable if not because without seeing it I don't want to stick my neck all the way down on the chopping block but generally speaking its probably fine.

STR
 
Ok well the owner of this one has answered me via a phone conversation and wants me to fix it.

I'm going to bump up the stop pin to the next bigger size and see if it doesn't fix this up back to a factory fresh look for lock contact.

My measurements tell me that the stop pin in the folder now is a 3/16" diameter which equates to .1875 to be precise. I'm going to take the pin up to a number 12 size which is .1890 and see what happens. If that doesn't do the trick I may then elect to bump it up once more to a #11 size which is .1910. Either way we'll have some adjustment to do to the blade where it passes over the new stop diameter and where it seats down on top of the pin when its closed. It will be just a small adjustment to make it seat down so the point does not stick up and so that the detent does its job.

Stay tuned I'll show some pictures of the new lock up and see where we are.

STR
 
I would like to see how it will trun out. I had one benchmade like that and I took easy way out. I bang the ti liner (the part touching the blade when it open) with hammer without touching the ball. It got longer and fixed my problem but the ti liner look ugly with some dings.
 
Got my drill bits in the mail to make my new stop out of for this one so it will be moving along here shortly with a number 12 replacement stop to see how that does for tightening up the lock up on it.

STR
 
Friz your lock is much better now. Had to bump it up to a 7/32 to get it to stop overtraveling. It wore more than I thought so just the slight bump with the number 11 drill didn't work. Its fine now though and probably hitting about like it did when new. I did also adjust the lock itself to make it contact as full as it did originally. Overall its ready to mail now and will be going out shortly with your sharpened Dodo. I also had to of course make minor adjustment to the rest area of the blade where the stop and the blade meet when its closed so that the point would seat down and the detent would work as it should. Its nothing noticed really and sits just as it did before I touched it.

STR
 
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