minimize torque in impact splitting

Cliff Stamp

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Most impact splitting is done by putting the blade in the wood with the tip extended past the wood and hitting the tip while pressing down on the handle to split the wood :



This induces a strong internal torque in the knife which reaches a maximum between the two force points of the knife in the wood and the hand pressing down on the grip. Unfortunately for knives there is usually a large weak point also right inbetween those points. For folding knives it is the pivot and the lock mechanism and for fixed blades it is the tang/blade junction.

Now you can avoid this torque if you don't press down on the handle. However this also means that unless the wood is very easy to split, the impact will just cause the knife to rotate in the wood and will not be effective at splitting. However if you positionthe knife so that the tip just reaches the other side and impact in the choil region then a radically different behavior is induced for the internal torque :



In splitting done in this manner there is rarely any need to provide significant force with the hand, and you are in fact pulling up which stabilizes the lock rather than pressing down trying to collapse it. This allows *much* heavier impacts. In fact as an extreme example, I used the Delica Wave with the choil impact method and the Manix with the tip impact method. Under the same impact energies 16 (2) ft.lbs (calibrated off lead weight drops) I could damage the Manix lock but the Delica/Wave was fine.

The damage to the Manix was only light, the lock bar was raised visibly, and the blade will catch/stick after being opened about 25 degrees, though it can still be rotated out with a bit more force. However the Delica/Wave is actually rock solid, it was not effected at all because even though the impacts are the same, the effect on the internal torque is not. For lock backs it is also difficult to tip split because the off hand tends to depress the lock anyway.

Note for large fixed blades there is another benefit. Many large knives are balanced so that they don't respond well to impacts in the tip and thus they are much more comfortable in hand if you impact near the choil vs the tip. Possom has discussed this in detail in various posts.

In short, reverse the position of the blade to minimize the internal torque in the blade at the lock/tang region. This in many blades will also reduce the vibration impact to the off hand.

-Cliff
 
I think I follow how this alternative method provides a benefit with folding knives. What are the benefits with a fixed-blade? Avoiding impacts to a possibly thinner (and sharper) tip area? Do you not still have torque stresses at the blade/handle junction?
 
Thomas Linton said:
What are the benefits with a fixed-blade? Avoiding impacts to a possibly thinner (and sharper) tip area?

Yes, as well as usually reduced vibration to the hand and less torque on the tang/blade junction.

Do you not still have torque stresses at the blade/handle junction?

Yes but vastly reduced. Take a 2x4 a few feet long and stand it on one end. Now take a bat and hit the top and it will of course pinwheel. Howeve hit it in the middle and watch what happens. This is the basic idea for the above. hitting the tip will tend to torque the blade strongly, hitting near the choil will not.

-Cliff
 
Yes, there is this, but it is also the placement of the forces around the body. If for example you strike a 2x4 right in the middle it won't rotate at all, it will just move in a straight line .

Note you can also minimize the torque around the pivot by using a holder block in your off hand to press down on the blade itself and not the handle. This will completely eliminate any strain on the lock or tang/blade junction. It isn't loaded *at all*, you can do it with slip joints

I had some pictures showing this as well but it was raining and you can't see through the drops. I'll redo it later.

-Cliff
 
Interestingly enough while flicking through a book on old crafts I noticed a picture of a old craftsman splitting wood with a cleaving knife(looked like 7-10 inch sheepfoot knife) in a similar fashion.
 
Lee demonstrates this in his book on sharpening where he mentions shop or hack knives. I think the reason why people hit the tip is mainly that they think keeping the impact point far away from the tang/pivot lowers the torque on that point. In fact it doesn't, it tends to maximize it.

-Cliff
 
I tried this technique today with my f1, one possible problem I did notice is you are hitting the batten relatively close to the handle of the knife(with a short knife like the f1 anyway) so you may need to use a smaller (lighter ?) batten .I can see why it useful in folders particularly slipjoints.Do you mind if I post a thread over on bushcraftuk and provide a link to your post. I’ll probably give the tread a title like least stressful way to batten knife.
 
Its public so repeat it where ever. If you want to use a larger baton, or protect the handle then cut a small holder block by cutting a notch across the grain of a small piece of hardwood, and use this to hold the blade in place infront of the handle and then impact the tip. The internal torque will be constrained between the two impacts and doesn't load the tang or pivot at all, you can even do this on a blade with no handle, so it works in extremes if you break a knife, or knives without locks, etc. .

-Cliff
 
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