Minimum block size to stabilize?

weo

weo

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Sep 21, 2014
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Hello all. Searching didn't quite answer this, so if I missed, please redirect.
I've got a bunch of spalted maple I'm planning on sending off to K&G and some will be for bowie handles and some will be cut into scales and I'm wondering if anyone knows through experience if there's a minimum block size to prevent warping during the stabilization process?
Thanks in advance
 
If the wood is dry, it shouldn't warp. I send 1/4" scales to them and have never had a problem.


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I don't have scales stabilized anymore because of warpage. I've never had them come back unusable, but have had to do a lot of sanding to flatten them out. I think the spalted stuff is highly likely to warp because the punky material is going to take the stabilizer at a much different rate than the rest of the wood. I would like to stay at the 3/4" thickness to be safe.
 
Thanks for input. Tom, I did call K&G and they initially didn't want to give a size saying it depends on the species, moisture content, etc. but when I pressed a bit and said I was planning on cutting into scales, they said probably stabilizing first then cutting into scales was a good idea as opposed to cutting then stabilizing.
I also like hearing from those with experience who have no financial interest in the business.
Thanks again
 
I have had some blocks warp and deform. They may have not been dry enough. But they still deformed. I always cut oversize by at least 1/8 inch just to be sure. If they do not warp no huge loss. If they do then they can still be used.
 
Just about anything can move during the curing process.
To play it safe I try to allow an extra 1/4" of thickness with blocks I send in.
I try not to cut scales until the wood has been stabilized.
But.....sometimes I have thinner stuff and I take the gamble.
Ideally I try to make sure they are at least 1/2" thick but I have sent thinner.

My opinion is try to send in block form whenever possible.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, I've already decided to send as blocks, then cut into scales.

Karl B. Andersen said:
Just cut them all into bowie sized blocks.
Cut them into scales when you get them back.
I send 2" x 1"+ x 5" blocks.
Click to expand...

That's what I had been doing, ust was thinking it's easier to cut the wood unstabilized.
 
weo said:
Thanks for the replies everyone, I've already decided to send as blocks, then cut into scales.

That's what I had been doing, ust was thinking it's easier to cut the wood unstabilized.
Click to expand...

I don't notice much difference at all when I cut stabilized wood. Smells different, but cuts easy. What are you cutting it with?
 
Randydb said:
I don't notice much difference at all when I cut stabilized wood. Smells different, but cuts easy. What are you cutting it with?
Click to expand...

When using my power bandsaw, I don't see much difference either. However, my current life situation has me working over 100 miles from my home/forge forcing me to rent a 1br apt during the week, so I was thinking I could use my hand saws (ryoba pull saws with .018 kerf) in the apt to pre-cut my blocks before stabilizing, to allow me more time to play in my forge when at home.
 
I've seen cuemakers send 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 18" and it comes out fine.

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