mircobevels

[knifeman1995]

What grind should I use a 1000 or 3000 stone on my edge pro. How do I know if I have made a microbevel? Thanks!

 

[DeadboxHero]

I use the highest grit. A few passes on each side with judicious amounts of pressure. Followed by pulling through soft wood or cardboard to clean up the apex. Check for reflections looking directly at the apex. Then check the sides of the apex for any burrs or foil edges that weren't removed.

If down at the correct angle. The micro bevel should be no bigger then the width of a hair.


Lastly test on paper for any snags or rips for area that need work that are too small to observe by eye.

 

[Honed_Edge]

Loosely speaking, in a scientific way... Micro needs magnification to be seen, macro can be seen with the unaided eye.

Microbevels are basically invisible, otherwise they would be macrobevels.

 

[EdgePal]

When you can se the edge with your naked eye - it is ready. (Old saying in Scandinavia).

The edge shall be 2-3 tens of 1 mm. When he edge, after som shapenings, has grown to 7-8 tens of 1 mm, it is time to grind the main edge so that the hooning edge go back to 2-3 tens of 1 mm again.

This is taditional way of making, and using, microbevells in Scandinavia. Our name for this edge is secondary bevels - och "brynegg" (honingedge).

Scandinavien traditional edges holds normaly around 10 DPS. This means that we use a honing edge on most of our knifes, but never om a knife used for woodwork.

If you by your self a Moraknife, the edge holds 11 DPS - and it also normally have a hooningedge, perhaps you need a loup to se it.

Thomas

 

[DeadboxHero]

Honed_edge, I disagree,

I feel the whole marcro, mirco bevels argument is semantics. It's good to discern things but I feel sometimes things get too anal retentive when vocabulary is held to a strict mind numbing rigmarole.

To each there own.