I bought a scratched up Camillus Terzuola CQB1 from a friend. I got all the scratches out starting with 600 them moving up to 2000. now I have a mirror finish, but how do I remove the scratches left by the 2000 grit by hand?I have 3M rubbing compound, it doesn't work. I tried all the stores in town for jewlers rouge, I live in Reno N.V. and every store I tried, it was all dried up and solid as a rock from sitting on the shelf in the desert.I don't want to use a dremel cuz it leaves streaks and lines, plus I want to do it all by hand. I heard baking soda might work?Just does anyone know how to remove 2000 marks by hand?and also should I be sanding wet/ and for the final polish do I go long ways or side to side or circular or what?
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mirror finish question
- Thread starter MBC77
- Start date
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Jun 6, 2000
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Jeweler's rouge is supposed to be in blocks. It is used with buffing wheels.
You can get higher grit paper-up to 4000 grit.
Simichrome will brighten the blade significantly. Put a small amount on a cotton rag and buff briskly. You probably won't be able to truly remove the lines left by 2000 grit, but they will not be noticeable.
Bill
You can get higher grit paper-up to 4000 grit.
Simichrome will brighten the blade significantly. Put a small amount on a cotton rag and buff briskly. You probably won't be able to truly remove the lines left by 2000 grit, but they will not be noticeable.
Bill
anyway. What grit do you stop at for a satin finish. I mean everyone else says it looks good at 2000, but I think it looks like sh*& cuz I can see the lines I put in it. I know a satin finish isn't as bright and mirror like as I have now after finish9ing 2000 but it doesn't have lines. I looked at another CQB1 in the store and it isn't nearly as bright as mine but it doesn't have lines. So basicly I'm asking, how do I get these crummy lines out.reguardless of where I stop. Like the new CQB1 isn't close to a mirror finish but it has no lines either. Understand?
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Jun 6, 2000
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Don't use the Dremel! It will be impossible to get a consistent finish with the small wheel!
Try the Simichrome. It will probably suit you. Some satin knives are sandblasted.
Bill
Try the Simichrome. It will probably suit you. Some satin knives are sandblasted.
Bill
Get yourself some of this stuff http://www.moldshoptools.com/catalog/list.php?category_id=104 3 and 1 micron should work though you can always find some 1/2 or 1/4 micron if you want to go crazy, and some polishing sticks to rub the diamond paste around with. (3 micron would be about 5000 grit waterstone, 1 micron about 12,000 to 15,000 grit, 1/4 micron about 60,000 grit)
You can make polishing sticks too... Hobby Lobby has balsa (soft and handy if you're polishing an uneven surface) and bass wood dowels and strips and also popsickle sticks. They also have sheets of felt... You can use the naked wood or you can glue felt or bits of chamios (can get a small one in the auto supply dept. at Kmart or wally world to cut up) to the sticks to make a softer surface that will reach down into any little pits or dips in the blade surface (if you grind the sides of your knives on a flat stone, or sandpaper on a granite surface plate, you will find that many of them are not really flat but are wavy, curved, or may have all sorts of bumps and dips due to uneven time/pressure on power buffing wheels and the like). It would be easiest to go up and down the length of the blade. Polishing in circles tends to be more difficult to get an even finish, but whatever works!
You can make polishing sticks too... Hobby Lobby has balsa (soft and handy if you're polishing an uneven surface) and bass wood dowels and strips and also popsickle sticks. They also have sheets of felt... You can use the naked wood or you can glue felt or bits of chamios (can get a small one in the auto supply dept. at Kmart or wally world to cut up) to the sticks to make a softer surface that will reach down into any little pits or dips in the blade surface (if you grind the sides of your knives on a flat stone, or sandpaper on a granite surface plate, you will find that many of them are not really flat but are wavy, curved, or may have all sorts of bumps and dips due to uneven time/pressure on power buffing wheels and the like). It would be easiest to go up and down the length of the blade. Polishing in circles tends to be more difficult to get an even finish, but whatever works!
From there a satin finish is straightforward.
Choose the sandpaper grit that gives the required finish. Many people like between 800 and 1200--but pick what you like. Try it on some scrap steel.
Draw the sandpaper smoothly along the blade (or across the blade if you want a vertical satin) from beginning to end in one motion and without stopping or changing direction. Run right off the edge. Repeat until finish is at the level you desire. A shinier satin finish can be obtained by a quick manual polish with simichrome to just smooth it out a bit.
I've got a couple of knives I've done this to and they look and work great.
Greg
Choose the sandpaper grit that gives the required finish. Many people like between 800 and 1200--but pick what you like. Try it on some scrap steel.
Draw the sandpaper smoothly along the blade (or across the blade if you want a vertical satin) from beginning to end in one motion and without stopping or changing direction. Run right off the edge. Repeat until finish is at the level you desire. A shinier satin finish can be obtained by a quick manual polish with simichrome to just smooth it out a bit.
I've got a couple of knives I've done this to and they look and work great.
Greg
Old CW4
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Yuzuha: Many thanks for the MoldShop URL. I sure logged that one as a favorite for more exploration. Another place all knife guys should explore is at www.micromark.com. There have every Dremel goodie ever made and a whole lot more.