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Mirror Finish
- Thread starter dondulah
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 7,035
Flitz polishing compound and a rag, maybe.
- Joined
- May 19, 2009
- Messages
- 1,161
This. But if you actually intend to use the kukri, you'll get scratches that polishing compound won't easily take out... you can either leave them on and let the thing look like it gets use, or, if you're OCD like myself, use sandpaper to take the scuffs and scratches off. I personally keep the worn down sandpaper that I use to sharpen my knives for this exact reason - the paper loses it's gritiness from sharpening well-hardened knives, and you tend to need to switch to new sheets fairly often when re-profiling a blade. However, the rest of the kukri is not particularly hard and even worn down sandpaper that you'd regularly throw away will work for polishing off such scuffs and scratches
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2006
- Messages
- 3,724
I'm with you on this one Wolf. When I was younger, I had the OCD about the polish of my blades, but that'd drive me nuts now trying to keep everything spotless... I've learned to embrace signs of use, as well as natural and forced patinas on carbon steel.
I'm with you on this one Wolf. When I was younger, I had the OCD about the polish of my blades, but that'd drive me nuts now trying to keep everything spotless... I've learned to embrace signs of use, as well as natural and forced patinas on carbon steel.
Those a couple of great looking Kukri's. I appreciate everyone's take on the topic of letting them look used over time due to use vs. keeping them looking new with a mirror finish polish. I really am looking for some good advice. So far I have the Flitz compound with some gentle sandpaper to do the trick. Any other advice? Thanks again for the feedback everyone. I really like my new Chitlangi and want to keep the mirror finish for now. Thanks!
yes. Use a small amount on a paper towel and buff until dry. Don't use on the kami engraving marks or you will eventually rub them out. As others stated, it will be very difficult to buff out deep scuffs from user blades. I was splitting wood with my Chiruwa Ang Khola and those scuffs never did come out.
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2006
- Messages
- 3,724
Hmm, you said you have a Dremel... don't they sometimes come with little wee buffing heads? Maybe one of those with a pinch of compound on it?
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2003
- Messages
- 580
I use MAAS polish. It won't take out deep scratches, but it will polish those scratches, so you don't notice them as much. Buy it at the local Walmart. A little goes a long way.
I have used it after sanding to a 2000 grit, for blades that I've decided to sell at the local gun show. Don't use it with a Dremel, as the speeds just send it flying, and it just turns to a yellowish coating if it gets too hot. A cotton rag, or t-shirt, and some elbow grease, works great.
I have used it after sanding to a 2000 grit, for blades that I've decided to sell at the local gun show. Don't use it with a Dremel, as the speeds just send it flying, and it just turns to a yellowish coating if it gets too hot. A cotton rag, or t-shirt, and some elbow grease, works great.
My experiences with a dremel and buffing wheel have produced less than satisfactory results. It tends to leave whirl-marks that then have to be gone over again with polish and a rag. If you want to start out aggressively and use this on larger scratches, fine. You'll still need to do a final polish by hand.
Tape the edge of the blade for safety.
Tape the edge of the blade for safety.