Mirror polishing going downhill wth?

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May 11, 2012
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Is this a known phenomenon, have you guys experienced it too? I am clueless and frustrated:

The more i try to mirror-polish a 'full' macro area, say a perfect square of 1inch x 1inch, of any common blade or handle steel (or titanium) material, the more i am able to make all micro and nano scratch lines disappear on the one hand, leaving superpolished mirror-like micro areas. No matter from which angle you look, from which angle the light shines, all nano lines are gone. So far so good.

On the other hand, between those micro areas, there are tiny micro pits, tiny micro craters which have been forming and growing ("micro-pitting"). And with these micro pits (they can grow up to the size of macro pits!) in place, the mirror-polish effect of the surface degrades more and more. It's perplexing.

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The micro-pitting phenomenon does not (seem to) occur when i mirror-polish tiny areas like a knife blade's bevel. One can get the best bevel mirror polish results with the help of a guided system. I've done that before and am pleased enough with the results. If the last guided strop was a 0.25micron diamond paste, then you can still see these 0.25micron scratch lines depending on lighting and viewing angles. That's definitely not like a real mirror, never mind.

Mirror-polishing a macro area like a knife blade's face seems to be a totally different beast. When you start grinding with a whetstone back and forth, the metal particles accumulating under the face scratch the face back, and some of these new scratches are so deep that they can't get polished away during the later polishing stages (1000, 2000, 3000, 5000, 10000grit). At the 5000 and 10000grit stages you realize that guided polishing a blade face is becoming nonsensical, inefficient, and that you'd prefer to do polishing movements, i.e. circular movements. But that doesn't work out too well either, so you advance to leather and or paper strops, try various compounds. At this point guided polishing is definitely a no-go and you rub with your loaded microfibre cloth in circular motions. You seem to make improvements, most of the micro scratches slowly disappear, leaving you with a sea of nano scratches from the 0.25micron diamond compound AND the abrased metal (in your microfibre cloth). Touching the surface with bare skin ruins that sea. Even trying to clean the surface ridding of the polishing paste becomes a huge challenge, without creating new nano scratches with your fingers, finger nails, toilet paper, tissue. At this point the polished surface looks very good under fortunate (lighting and viewing) angles but nothing like a real mirror which is totally independent from angles. Also at this point you don't realize that the surface has been growing hardly visible nano pits, very few ones. You keep polishing with a fresh microfibre cloth and the same last used compound (0.25micron), thinking that the result should remain stable, the same, if not better: if you kept polishing a real bathroom mirror for hours with a fresh microfibre cloth, the mirror won't degrade. Right? Wrong. The longer you keep polishing your steel (or titanium), the more of the hardly visible nano pits form, seemingly out of nowhere. And they keep growing in size (diameter). Under the el cheapo microscope you can see points, circular speckles, on the mirror surface forming while the hairline scratches (actually nanoline scratches) really disappear thanks to your prolonged polishing. So now you are fully aware of the sea of nano pits and start wondering. Shouldn't circular polishing movements (with any optimal compound) reduce the size and number of these speckles, like it reduced the size, depth and number of the scratch lines? So you keep polishing in circular movements and learn that the nano pits have grown to the size of micro pits. One can see them with bear eyes. And because of that sea of pits, the total mirror polish effect of your surface is getting worse. (...)

I am relieved to see that i am not the only one experiencing this issue: The famous Victorinox Spirit multitool (and the WORKPRO keychain folding utility knife 3-pack set) has a shiny-blinky handle finish, almost a mirror finish. When you look closer, you'll notice lots of speckles and macro pits disturbing the mirror finish. One may argue that these imperfections originate from the "mirror tumble finishing" process (Does such a thing even exist?) but that's imho rather half of the story. I've tried to mirror polish the handle with a Q-tip, rubbing/polishing in longitudinal direction, and while that does indeed reduce the size of the bigger speckles (as expected!, since you're removing metal from the surface to get to the ground of the speckles), it also creates new micro pits, longish ones, in direction of the polishing movement. Clearly a testament that, in general, one should avoid using back'n forth movements for polishing: eventually this would dig pits (carbide tearout??) in this direction.

I also tried the polishing wheels of my dremel, with various compounds. Same result. If you hold the rotary wheels long enough at one point on your near-mirror-polished steel — 15-20sec may be enough — you'll see micropits forming. So instead of improving the mirror polish with the dremel, it goes from near-mirror-polish to no-mirror-polish.

Sorry for the long blah tl;dr. I am sure that there is an official term for the observed phenomenon and that the topic has been treated in scientific books on The Art of Mirror Polishing. But i am no freak to go the library, look up the best tomes on Mirror Polishing, read them, study the topic like a college student, and go back to my workbench and try to solve the issue.

I just wanted to vent and share my actual observation and experience that this phenomenon is real.
And that mirror-polishing a smooth flat macro area is on a really different, higher level of difficulty/challenge than superpolishing a knife bevel.

Out.
 
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Truthfully, I feel like your technique is mostly to blame. Such as holding the dremel in place for a long period... This will cause damage as will many of your other methods.
 
I think with some metals, overpolishing just reveals the existing flaws in the metals, such as inclusions (impurities of completely random makeup that shouldn't be there) or voids (bubbles, in essence) left by the metal's smelting/manufacturing process. As with blade steel itself, the quality & purity of the alloy and the distribution of grain size (how uniformly small) will make a big difference in how well it responds to extreme attempts at refinement.

In the picture shown, I doubt it's an issue with so-called 'carbide tearout', as the metal used (stainless steel or aluminum?) for the handle on that tool probably doesn't have much carbide content anyway, if any at all. On the other hand, the 'pits' showing may just be inclusions coming out or voids being exposed.
 
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Truthfully, I feel like your technique is mostly to blame.
I'll take it np. But Victorinox factory Switzerland and WORKPRO factory China experience the same difficulties, the challenge of creating a macro area which looks like a spotless real mirror no matter the angles. I won't spend more efforts or energy into this frustrating topic ('mirror-polishing a macro area'), even though an expert like MERARD factory France could help it. For two good reasons: 1. nobody else does mirror-polishing (to 100% perfect results) of blade faces on the forum, 2. as soon as you cut something like cardboard with the knife, the blade face gets scratched up, the mirror polish blemished; h*ll, even wiping down water drops from the face with your bare fingers blemishes the mirror finish!, 3. i can create mirror-like polishes on my blade bevels to my satisfaction (it's actually quite easy and straight-forward, never frustrating a topic), who needs a perfectly mirror-polished blade face anyway?
I have yet to see with my own eyes how MERARD machined mirror-finishes look like in reality. Of course, their finishes don't have micro pits. Yet will i be able to see nano scratch lines under certain angles instead? I am curious to see.
The best mirror finish on metal i've ever seen are the spinning discs of conventional hard disc drives (HDD). But, to be fair, those finishes are not machined but film-applied.

Yes it must be my technique to be blamed (1 type of microfibre cloth only, too much pressure during polishing). So i'll mirror-polish bevels again in future (it's easy peasy) but i'll not try again to mirror-polish faces (frustration and 'failure' programmed).
 
Short answer is that polishing larger areas is hopeless with hard substrates like stones. You won't achieve sufficient pressure (due to large surface area) to remove metal efficiently.

Also, the biggest challenge with polishing softer metals is that grit particles become embedded and produce a wear-resistant layer. That may be what you are imagining are micro-pits.

https://scienceofsharp.com/2019/10/02/grit-scratches-and-sub-surface-damage-part-1/
 
I think with some metals, overpolishing just reveals the existing flaws in the metals
i totally understand your theory and the full scientific truth might well lie in that direction. i experienced this micro-pitting (after/thru manual overpolishing under much speed and pressure) on:
  1. 8Cr13MoV blade face not bevel
  2. Victorinox Spirit handle face
  3. Chinese S35VN blade face not bevel
  4. WORKPRO Chinese stainless steel handle
  5. TPT SLIDE Chinese titanium Grade 5 handle
.. at which point i told myself 'enough is enough!'.
In my understanding of the observation it's rather about tearing away more and more "surface-loose" steel material molecules than about exposing existing inclusions or voids. The interesting/good news is that one could simply go back 1 or 2 steps in the polishing grit progression and resurface the finish with that lower grit, grinding the sea of pits away. You end up with a pit-free sea of one-directional nano scratch lines, back to square one. I had to return to square one several times and retried to improve the mirror-polish going forward with small changes in my approaches (different compound, less pressure, less rubbing speed, circular vs straight motion, etc) but after surpassing the right point in time, the overpolishing .. etc etc
 
That may be what you are imagining are micro-pits.
interesting article per se thanks!, but it covers a different topic imho.

Given that nobody else does overpolishing of larger areas, i wouldn't be surprised if i am the only one to be witnessing the micro-pitting (starts with nano-pitting) phenomenon. Maybe the Q-tip example is the best example for our purposes; we could agree that the cotton bud of a Q-tip would NOT be the most suitable medium for mirror-polishing a metal surface with any compound?

So take a mirror-polished steel surface (e.g. the original Victorinox Spirit handle) and scrub the Q-tip back and forth with full speed and under much pressure and preferably with a compound (Chinese diamond paste or else). You'll see that the Q-tip starts to blacken duh and that the steel surface starts to shine up, getting brighter (improved mirror-finish!) while the mirror image itself also starts to include speckles (worsened mirror-finish, distorted mirror image!). Defects in the mirror polish, argh! :(

Thinking about this experiment, Jason B. Jason B. is right, the logical explanation is that the steel surface is being damaged. The cotton bud is too rough. And the high pressure is contraproductive at the final mirror-polishing stages. Material is getting torn out of the smooth surface!

S*cks. I don't like reducing pressure. When i reduce pressure, the polishing step takes forever. i am not cut for that pun intended :confused:
 
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Everything has to be really flat like your abrasives and the surface your polishing, then you can achieve a perfect mirror polish. That's my theory. Be ready to be even more frustrated to get everything perfectly flat though.

I polish the spines of some of my knives and those don't get scratched up that much during use. If you like the look, give it a try.
 
A lot of the mirror surface treatments out there are done via plating operations.
After that, powered polishing will produce a much better finish. And then as mentioned once you get into the higher finishes you need to match abrasive to the hardness of the surface.
Between sticking grit into the surface and revealing voids or regions of varying hardness will make up the rest of your troubles.

In truth I have seen very few "mirror" quality finishes on ANY steel surface that held up to a closer inspection.
 
That's my theory.
hehe everyone has his own theory. that's fine :D
Polishing spines? Oki, i'll try that. Sure i'd like that look!

this topic reminded me of the following video which i had watched a while back:
First of all, it took him over 8h for the process and a whole series of the most expensive whetstones. And when he changes the viewing angles, one can clearly see a bunch of micro scratch lines still being present in the near-mirror finish. Since he's using stones only (and not paste compounds like 0.25micron), the finish must be full of irregular nano scratch lines as well. Anyway, that's still a blade bevel not a blade face. With my pastes and stuff i could achieve a better bevel mirror polish than his result (sorry to brag haha:p). With all those micro and nano scratch lines on his bevel and using stones only, that guy is far from experiencing any micro-pitting. I experienced micro-pitting only after leaving the whetstones stage, i.e. when overpolishing with compounds. The overpolishing would really make the

While his video doesn't show micro-pitting, it is still valuable to show how thankless and fruitless our amateur mirror-polishing attempts can end up, despite serious efforts. His result is imho still pretty good (highschool grade B+, being generous), hats off. He's probably wondering and frustrated himself that with all these crazy series of most expensive stones, tons of sweat and time, he could achieve only B+ grade upon closer inspection. Yeah well, stones can take you only so far when it comes down to superpolishing.

kreisler. arrogant. ;)
 
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In searching the web to read about how mirror-polishing is done in industry, I found at least a couple of docs (.pdf format) relating to the topic. Uddeholm, in particular, seems to publish a lot of info on the topic. In the 2nd linked doc below, there's an appendix in the linked doc relating to a "Defect Chart and Hints for High-Gloss Polishing of Steel Surfaces" (a brochure by Uddeholm), which describes different defects like pitting, and why it happens, as well as suggesting strategies for correcting it.

All of it looks like very interesting reading, though I've just scanned it over at the moment.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct..._1609_e6.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1go63YWo2GC2Rx93j8Sbie

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...6/174376.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0jqNvEMEL3FOeMre7l-LTY
 
In truth I have seen very few "mirror" quality finishes on ANY steel surface that held up to a closer inspection.
Good to know, thank you!

I would assume that powered polishing with the perfectly matching cloth medium (MERARD would know) can give satisfactory results, maybe up to grade A-. And apparently there are doctor theses (thanks Obsessed with Edges Obsessed with Edges for the relevant PDF links!) on this very topic.
Excess pressure when polishing can cause pitting.
So i wasn't too wrong to open this thread and question what has been going downhill during my overpolishing attempts.
 
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There's a lot of speculation in this thread.
First-you have to have sufficient surface area on your polishing wheel to cover a large area. Dremels and similar tools are not sufficient for polishing anything much bigger than a ring. A larger buffer is needed. Proper technique and polishing compounds are also very necessary.
Plating is done AFTER polishing, not before.
Polishing will slur imperfections left in the metal from previous polishing/sanding attempts. Excess pressure when polishing can cause pitting.
Using a lubricant on the polishing wheel can greatly eliminate this pitting. WD 40 is a very good lube for this.

Polishing with stones and abrasives is a different matter.
 
There's a lot of speculation in this thread.
First-you have to have sufficient surface area on your polishing wheel to cover a large area. Dremels and similar tools are not sufficient for polishing anything much bigger than a ring. A larger buffer is needed. Proper technique and polishing compounds are also very necessary.
Plating is done AFTER polishing, not before.
Polishing will slur imperfections left in the metal from previous polishing/sanding attempts. Excess pressure when polishing can cause pitting.
Using a lubricant on the polishing wheel can greatly eliminate this pitting. WD 40 is a very good lube for this.

Polishing with stones and abrasives is a different matter.
Bill, what buffing compound do you recommend for a final step in mirror polishing when buffing? I've used pink scratchless on a clean/new buffing wheel and can still see the scratches left from it, even when changing the buffing direction (so I know it's from the compound).
 
You can go over it by hand with Simichrome polish.
There will always be some scratches showing on polished metal. How fine those scratches are is what determines the level of polish.
 
I believe this is known as "orange peel" in mold and die polishing.
Thanks, this has to be it yes!
(...)
I am giving the mirror-polishing of a knife blade's face another try. It's Chinese D2 steel (=8Cr13MoV :rolleyes:), full flat grind, comes with stone-washed mirror finish, super smooth, as seen on Techno2. One could just polish the stone-washed finish away (manually or with the PTS method) but i decided to go the extra mile and flatten the face with 302UF (w/ oil) by uni-directional grinding, i.e. no circular grinding movements. Lotta work, as it turns out that the Chinese full flat grind is not very flat! I am still at face A, and it'll take another 2 days to complete both faces with the 302UF.

I can see already, the Spyderco UltraFine stone leaves a finish which has mirror-like properties at certain viewing+lighting angle combinations, but at most angle combos the finish looks rather like a fine satin finish ("satin mirror finish"), with unidirectional parallel microscratches (originating from the stone AND from the 8Cr13MoV steel particles in the oil). Very good: the satin finish looks very uniform with a controlled "singular" scratch depth, there are no deeper microscratches by outliers or other defects in the finish produced by the 302UF.

Also good to know: even with much pressure and high speed grinding (developing some heat at the stone-blade-interface!) the 302UF does NOT generate micropitting (orange-peel)! The 302UF satin finish is 100.0% free of micropitting. It means that i could use this stage (finish) to come back to ("reset stage"), if i make a mistake and generate micropitting in a subsequent polishing stage. (In practice, the 302UF stage is not suitable as reset stage because it takes too much efforts to re-grind a plane with it, if the plane isn't 100.0% flat! Iirc a more practical micropitting reset stage would be polishing the plane at high pressure and high speed with WHITE polishing compound, which leaves a coarser satin mirror finish than 302UF w/ oil but also doesn't generate micropitting)

Question: Anyway, if i were to proceed with CN diamond paste on face A, which micron would be the correct one to follow the 302UF stage, in your opinion:
40 / 28 / 20 / 14 / 10 / 7 / 5 / 3.5 / 2.5 / 1.5 / 1.0 / 0.5 / 0.25 "CN;) micron"
?
(seller's info: 3.5=3000grit, 2.5=4000grit, 1.5=6000grit, 1.0=8000grit, 0.5=10000grit)

Btw, for the CN diamond paste stage i am planning to use the Ruixin device with the PTS method which will work really effectively. Attention: The paste might contain contaminants/spec outliers, leading to deeper microscratches which subsequent stages cannot polish away anymore; in this regard it is risky to work with CN diamond paste! Let's see how it goes. If no micropitting occurs, i'd follow the same recipe on face B.
 
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There are two sources of most problems in polishing. One is the cold-worked layer that forms when you "burnish" the surface and the second is embedded abrasive particles.

I believe that "orange peel" can form when that cold-worked surface layer is partially removed by subsequent polishing, exposing the "good" metal in some areas. These two metal surfaces aren't likely to polish at the same rate, so the surface becomes wavy. In my experience, a soft polish won't level the surface.

If you want to know how "proper" polishing is done, the best resource I know is the Struers website.
https://www.struers.com/en/Knowledge/Grinding-and-polishing#about
 
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