Miss Yandu has...

T

TomFetter

Joined
Dec 6, 2004
Messages
1,103
... come through again. I've been greedily watching the DOTD specials for a Sarge for some time now, and haven't been quick enough whenever one made an appearance.

Then I got the promise of some decent antler from a friend, and got to wondering. What if one of the Sarge knives had come through from Nepal, but had a handle which was perhaps broken, or badly cracked, or for some other reason was unsaleable?

A quick e-mail to Yangdu later, and I've a Sarge that Bura made now happily travelling the road to my door. The original handle was apparently too short, but as I'll re-handle it anyway ... Can hardly wait!

Thanks again, Yangdu!
 
Good thinking.:thumbup: You'll love it. Post pics when you're thruough if you can.

Steve
 
I SECOND THAT pics , pics . I hope it turns out well . Could you post a pic without handle as well? I want to see what the tangs look like on these babies .
 
That's great, Tom !

Classy operation, this Himalayan Imports, eh?

I hope you are pleased. Go for about a four inch handle, minimum.



Be well and safe.
 
This will be my first time putting a new handle on a stick-tang knife. As we recently got a digital camera, I'll happily document things for one and all, though I'm not clear on how the picture-posting stuff works. We'll sort that out when it becomes an issue.

Kis, I think you're right about a 4" minimum for the handle - I've been thinking a handle length of 4 to 4 1/2", and then the crown end of the antler for a pommel. But we'll see how the proportions look when I've got everything here. I'm a little unclear how to best work the end of the antler where it meets the guard and blade - and have wondered about putting a pretty piece of wood up there (curly maple?) more or less as a bolster.

t.
 
I only do "crude." One of the knifemakers will have to discuss this with you.

The original, and the copy I use, each have a curve in the handle, arching down to the blade, and aiding in applying pressure while keeping control. I also ground down the thumb rest area on the copy for a little more than an inch along the spine.

I'm excited for you.

(Oh, and a breathing mask when drilling, grinding, or polishing antler. The dust is hazardous to your lungs.)
 
I am so glad we were able to help each other. I shall continue to keep my commitment to you to serve you in all honesty. I would like to see a picture of your replacement handle.
 
American deer and elk antler has a porous core that is pretty ugly. Not to mention a haven for bacteria on a hunting knife. Whatever you do, make sure that area is covered and filled with epoxy.

When you epoxy the handle on, do yourself a big favor and cover everything with masking tape that doesn't get glued up. And be sure to tape the cutting edge thoroughly when doing any handle work. When a knife goes to my workbench, first thing to happen is - tape the edge.

You don't really need power tools to re-handle a knife. A drill press is sure nice to have, but a hand drill works fine. You might need to track down a longer drill bit, depending on the tang length. A vise with soft jaws, and some files and assorted sandpaper will get you started. Check Dean's Useful Tips post for lots of good ideas on this. Good luck and keep us posted.:D
 
TomFetter said:
I'm a little unclear how to best work the end of the antler where it meets the guard and blade - and have wondered about putting a pretty piece of wood up there (curly maple?) more or less as a bolster.

t.
Click to expand...

Tom I used a short piece 1/2" or so, of the heavy copper pipe/tubing on the handles I put on the two kardas made from a couple of different old knives whose handles weren't any good anymore.
I flattened them slightly with a hammer and then filed the ends of the handles to just slide in.
I left them just a little long, maybe 3/64" or so in order to be able to fill the void left with epoxie mixed with the sanding dust off the handles.
Doing this also effectively covered up the round holes I drilled so the tangs would slide in the handles.
When the epoxie starts to dry a bit it can be formed into a slight angle up the blade making for a really nice looking intersection between blade and handle.
It will be slightly different since the Sarge/KPH has a guard but the copper pipe could still make for a nice bolster there.

Since you're redoing the handle I would take the opportunity to make a slightly thicker more substantial guard, by making it a little wider you wouldn't have to file the horn down quite as small to make it look nice.
 
Very good thoughts, folks. It's unclear whether I'll be using deer antler, or perhaps moose ... I understand that moose is pretty solid stuff, down near the crown.

I've also been ogling some knives in other parts of the larger forum with pewter bolsters and buttcaps, and I'm finding myself quite intrigued ... though I'm not sure if the "look" would be right for a Sarge. But another friend of a friend is a pewtersmith ... A pewter bolster would solve both the guard and the how-to-finish-the-antler-end question. What do you think?
 
TomFetter said:
I've also been ogling some knives in other parts of the larger forum with pewter bolsters and buttcaps, and I'm finding myself quite intrigued
But another friend of a friend is a pewtersmith ...
A pewter bolster would solve both the guard and the how-to-finish-the-antler-end question. What do you think?
Click to expand...

I think it would be great in many ways!!!!:thumbup: Go for it!!!!:D :cool:
 
Sounds great, but don't make it too pretty.

Sumbich is made to be beat up.



We want pictures.
 
Yup, Kismet. I want it pretty enough to want to carry, and plain enough to want to use.

It takes a bit longer for packages to travel from Reno to Canada ... and I'd said to Yangdu that I didn't want it to be sent with ridiculous international courier charges. Otherwise I might pay more for the shipping than for the blade! But rest assured, pictures will start to flow once the knife hits the workbench.

t.
 
I agree with Yvsa, a thicker guard with a more radiused transition for the index finger would be my choice. It should feel good in hand.
Don't worry too much about making this one absolutely perfect. They'll be more in your future. I can tell:D
 
My care package from Yangdu arrived today, with a lovely Sarge knife inside. Let the games begin. And thanks again Yangdu - this is simply great.

The blade is 3 3/4" long, 3/16" thick at the bolster, where it is also 3/4" wide. It swells to its largest width (just under 1") about an inch from the tip. The form and heft of the blade is really lovely; I can see why folks have raved about the design. Even the sheath, which I'd thought to change right away, is nicer in person than I'd expected. I didn't anticipate the separate frog, which allows me to turn the knife around (I'm left handed). While it will lose the chape soon ... and likely be re-dyed to brown or black, the sheath isn't an immediate concern.

I hope to get the antler from my friend this weekend, and perhaps start on the re-handling job. The current one (while antler) is only about 3" long, and too thin to feel comfortable in the hand. I can readily see why Yangdu didn't feel good selling it on the DOTD - which would have been a waste of a really lovely blade.

Kismet, what had you planned for the main edge geometry? As it's a slicer rather than a chopper, I wonder if our usual convex edge would be efficient. I'm thinking maybe a thinner edge. A scandi grind maybe? If it weren't done perfectly, it would it mark up the sides of the knife badly. And the curve near the tip where the knife swells would be a real pain to do well.

Maybe I should just put on a small secondary bevel and be done with it? What have other folks done?

BTW, the false edge came at what I'd think is the exact sharpness for it to function as Kismet designed. Sharper than a butter knife, but not sharp enough to cut. Looks ideal for separating joints.

I'm very impressed with this piece of steel, and am looking forward to re-handling it to suit. I'm particularly pleased that the blade has the heft that it has. I was afraid that a pewter bolster and buttcap might make the thing feel too handle-heavy. Instead, I suspect that they'll allow me to carefully "tune" the balance point to where it feels best. On the first finger? To the front of the guard? What's the balance point of the utility/hunting knife that suits YOU best?


Tom.
 
SOunds like you have a fun little project there, Tom:thumbup:
I just sharpened mine up like i do with my khuks. Stone, steel, strop. It puts a nice thin convex edge on the blade. The clip i sharpened to near razor sharpness. Not as sharp as the primary. This set up works well for me as I use mine as a utility knife around my home and office and not for hunting. The secondary edge is good for cutting carton straps that my product usually has to hold it to its shipping pallet.

Mine feels perfect to me. It balances just behind the guard. The antler handle gives it some heft as well as some really great looks:)

Jake
 
Tom?

The front of the blade was ground to penetrate flesh, cartilege, sinew, and such stuff and to facilitate skinning. The bottom bevel was to slice flesh, since I do my own processing. The false edge was to help penetrate into joints.

But it is your blade, and there is no "right" on it. It is the knife I use most often, for the stuff I do. Make it your own, like Shaddrach of Indiana.

er...uh...on the sheath thingie? Illustrating, once again, why I am not allowed to use tools, I have this sheath I made.

But you see, I kind of got turned around in my head, what with outside leather, inside leather, belt attachment, all that technical stuff that NASA has computers for. So, I made a left-hand dangle sheath with a belt loop for my right-hand use, perhaps because in my next life I will be left-handed.

As it happens, I have no need for it in this life.

Want it? It is thick, ugly, rough, and unassuming. I keep it out to remind myself just how simple-minded I am.

Email me with an address if you want it. I will understand if you don't.


Brian makes excellent points (no pun intended) on taping stuff you don't want glued, or edges you would prefer to keep from cutting your flesh.

Thumbcutter Goodbeard, the werewolf pirate, knows of this.



Be well and safe.
 
Many thanks Kismet - I'd be delighted to take that sheath off the hands of the blade's designer. I've sent an e-mail with my address.

No pics yet lads, but I spent some quality time last night with my waterstones, starting to true up the main bevels. As shipped, the bevels had a wee bit of wobble, creating a minor blip in the otherwise nice straight main cutting edge. So I'm moving towards a scandi grind for the main cutting edge, which will be efficient, easy to re-sharpen, and character building for me (as I do it all by hand!). I've evened out bevels this way before on other knives, using my antique straight-razor hone for the final polishing finish.

My only problem? The new knife brought absolutely saucer-sized eyes from my 12 year old son, and tears from my 7 year old lad. The older guy already has a mid-grade pukko, and the youngest is ready for a first knife now (he's used mine responsibly with supervision for some time). And both could see the Sarge's obvious quality. So I clearly need 2 more decent small knives, soon. Christmas is coming ... fair warning: my small-knife sharking might be stepping up a notch or so. Though I'm actually leaning towards a small Opinel for my youngest, or a good vintage Stockman.

This is a good place. Thanks again, both to HI, and to the Cantina.
 
Tears from the seven year old.
Those tears of childhood. Man. Thanks for sharing that.





munk
 
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