Mitutoyo Heigt Guage??

DgrantD

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Does any body here use one of these things? I am reading th book "How to Make knives", and he uses it to scribe lines on the cutting edge. Any thing I should know if Im gonna buy one of these, I searched the archives and nothing came up that was of use,

Thanks alot,

Grant
 
Hi,
Yeah, if you're gonna use one just for this, go for a used, make sure it's got a "drop" scribe (pro'ly not the correct term, but it's the zag shaped attachment) & make sure you use it on a flat surface (granite, plate glass or flat steel plate) otherwise you'll get wavy lines.


Oh, & keep it clean;)
 
get a file, grind an edge onto the hard end...........it works just as good and its free.
 
I still say eye it. If it looks good, then it is good. I don't know about you all, but I can tell a difference of 0.010" by eye. That does not means I can tell you that the blade thickness on one end is 0.190 and the other end is 0.180, but i could tell you that one end is thicker. Works the same on the edge straightness.

I may think differently about height gages if I ever do a folder, where everything has to be mor accurate.

Just my $.02
 
So far I just eye it too, but I can see where that'd cause problems. I dunno, only sold one knife so far anyways, so I'm probably not one to talk. :)
 
I use a set of Helios (calipers) set to the right size,
if I'm not eyeballing it,, which I like to do most the time..
I have them anyway.
I'll just set it to half the size of the steel
let's say your steel is 0.130,
divide it by two = .065 center of the sharpened edge, (where it will be when finshed.)
and add to it one half of what you want the edge body to be,
lets say the edge body is to be .025 then add to that meat to
grind after heat treating
= .0125+ plus the meat to finish grind.
I want to confuse you more by saying you can get the same lines by subtracting everything after the first 1/2 measurement.

lay the I/D ( inside) of one of the tips to the surface like
you're going the measure down to the edge
( where the edge will be ) scribe and then scribe
from the other side.
using some bluing die or (sometimes called) die-chem to
see the lines better. did that make any cents :confused:
this is why I don't write books
 
I use a mitutoyo height gauge and it works great for me. You might want to check ebay. I bought an 18" in mint like new condition for around $75 on ebay. I didn't realize how big the thing was until I got it but it still works fine for what I use it for. Also, get a granite surface plate, you can usually pick these up from harbor freight for around $20-$25.
 
Originally posted by Graymaker
I use a set of Helios (calipers) set to the right size,
if I'm not eyeballing it,, which I like to do most the time..
I have them anyway.
I'll just set it to half the size of the steel
let's say your steel is 0.130,
divide it by two = .065 center of the sharpened edge, (where it will be when finshed.)
and add to it one half of what you want the edge body to be,
lets say the edge body is to be .025 then add to that meat to
grind after heat treating
= .0125+ plus the meat to finish grind.
I want to confuse you more by saying you can get the same lines by subtracting everything after the first 1/2 measurement.

lay the I/D ( inside) of one of the tips to the surface like
you're going the measure down to the edge
( where the edge will be ) scribe and then scribe
from the other side.
using some bluing die or (sometimes called) die-chem to
see the lines better. did that make any cents :confused:
this is why I don't write books

Hahaha, what the hell?????????:confused:

I suck so bad at math, but I might be able to figre that out later on today.
 
I'll be stepping up to this eventually too because I'm a tool nut and allow any minor excuse to equal "need" for a new tool. Meanwhile I'm just using the centerline guage I made like the catalog version above. It works great.

I'd rather mark my centerline than eyeball it, though I must agree that's probably good enough for our work...see "tool nut" above. :) And I mark the centerlines about 3/64 apart; dunno what that is in thousanths, I just eyeball that part. :D

Dave
 
I'm a tool nut too, but the scribe I've been using for 30 years is just like the one Mike showed above, but made it myself and it looks worse. It also works great for scribing grind lines on the edges of my folder handles.
 
Dave,3/64 in thousands?.
invert--- 3 divided by 64= .0468
invert fraction and divide to convert to thousands.
Roland
 
Originally posted by tom mayo
get a file, grind an edge onto the hard end...........it works just as good and its free.

I've got a Mayo file in my shop. It works well...and is a sharp scribe on the corner. Tom gave this tip about 4 years ago on this forum and gave it a try.

C Wilkins
 
I also use a piece of brass with a hole drilled in it and a carbide scribe tip pounded into the hole..........I drilled the hole and then ground on the brass until I got it just where I wanted the scribe to be........on one side it works perfect for 3/16" stock -scribe the knife turned on each side and get two lines about .020" apart.............and I turn it another way and it is the same for 1/4" stock knives..........I use the file method for 1/8" and thereabouts...........I have two height gauges..........one Starret and one Mitotoyo..........way too time consuming/havent dragged either one out for over 15 years. You just need two parallel lines.

BTW-I also scribe a line on the side of all the blades that I am putting a double grind on, just for the top grind (unless it is a fancy bowie or fighter that I really want to come out perfect) and I always grind the top grind first.........all the way through to finish including hand sanding it.........that way you get a much nicer curve where the two grinds meet and you dont have to go back and adjust anything. :p :D :p
 
If you use a calibrated dial gauge a lot I would recommend checking the gauge quite often. All govt' gauges have to be inspected quite frequently and on a regular inspection basis because they do screw up more often than you would think. And these gauges sit on granite tables and are clean.
 
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