Mixing handle materials?

[Chiro75]

As I stated in another message, I will soon be finishing two kit knives. I am getting quite a bit more ambitious on these two, and was considering a variety of things to do, but I would need some comments from more experienced folks...
1) I was thinking of using Micarta or G-10 as the primary handle material. I have some carbon fiber, too, and was thnking of doing an inlay. Is there a problem with just epoxying the inlay into the handle, or should it also be pinned? Will the difference in expansion/contraction coefficients of the materials cause separation in the cold or humid weather? Any other precautions?
2) another thing I was thinking of doing was making a "false bolster" effect by putting one type of material at the front of the handle and another for the rest. Is this advisable, and what should I be aware of before trying such a stunt? Would I have to miter the junction at an angle to increase the contact area (for a stronger "joint") and epoxy it, or would pinning both materials and epoxying as usual do the trick? Again, I may be mixing colors and types of wood, G-10, carbon fiber, and Micarta, although the wood would probably be the most worrisome as far as contraction and expansion is concerned... any help is much appreciated!

 

[Edward R Schott]

Chiro
I do this alot.
I’ve mixed G-10, G-11, wood, micarta, aluminium, titanium, and even epoxy impegnated
leather.
I have mixed all of the above.
Dovetail the joints with the bolsters being the high side and you should have no problems.
ED

 

[Chiro75]

Hpw much dovetail length, and what do you use to do this on small pieces? Thatnks for the reply!
Steve

 

[Edward R Schott]

I use a 50deg angle on the thin ones and a 45deg on thicker.
I use a 1x30” belt grinder to cut the bevels and files and sand paper to fit them.
practice on some scrap to get the hang of it and go slow.
Not only will it make the handle stronger but looks very nice.

 

[ToTKnives]

Chiro75 what kind of epoxy are you using. I know that their are serveal kinds that can be used, what I have had the best luck with is the 2 part epoxy from K&G in Az. A good idea is to always rough up the ares that will be epoxyed so all of the materials will bond well, Chris. Top Of Texas Knives
www.toptexknives.com

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[Chiro75]

I used Devcon 2 Ton for my last project, although I didn't do anything fancy (just epoxied the slabs to the tang).
Steve

 

[C L Wilkins]

The only advise that I would give to anyone using more than one material for a handle is to work with one material at a time. Let me try to explain what I am saying. I assume that you are using bolsters or a finger guard. The material that will be closest to the bolsters, do them first. Drill the pin holes thru them if you can. Even up the edge opposite the bolster so they will be an equal length. The easiest way is of course to have at least one pin hole drilled thru both pieces and then truing it up on your belt sander. Doing this insures that it will be even on both sides of the blade. Nothing looks worse than the two sides of the handle to be uneven. I am speaking from experience. After doing this, you can place the remaining handle material just like you would butt up a single scale against the bolster. Instead of butting it up against the bolster, you are putting it up against the other material. The first piece does not even have to be glued yet if there is a pin going thru it.

This is just a "gotcha" that "got me" in the past when I first did this. I was more than just a little upset with myself. This is just a suggestion. Maybe someone will be able to learn from one of the mistakes that I committed in the past.

One other thing. The method I stated above is a little more labor intensive than you would think.

CLWilkins

 

[Chiro75]

So, are you saying NOT to bother with mitering the two adjacent materials? I'm not using a metal bolster or anything...basically, I would, for example, put carbon fiber in the front third of the handle, then let's say, Micarta for the rest. I can just butt them up next to one another with a cleanly made, flat joint, or what?

 

[C L Wilkins]

Yes. Either way would work whether they are mitered or straight, it is a matter of preference. The key is to make the first pieces equal in length. This is very important or the joints of the two different materials will not be at the same point on both sides of the blade.

CLWilkins