Mk1 and Sirupate Review and Comparison

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Apr 14, 2024
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The comparison will be geared more towards limbing and brush clearing application for these two blades. This test was done in the Western US to help remove some branches in a shelter belt. In these belts are oak, pine, cedar, mulberry trees, elm, and whatever else grew in over the decades.


Blade Specs:
Sirupate: 14" blade, 554g, Performance Grind, Medium handle length
Mk1: 13" blade, 734g, Performance Grind, Medium handle length

I have done nothing to these blades aside from lightly sand the handles and oil them. I used many many thin coats of pure tung oil and they are quite grippy.

Results:
Without burying the conclusion, it is what you might expect: the Mk1 is better for heavier chopping and the Sirupate is better for lighter, more flexible limbs/brush. HOWEVER, the gap between them is not near as large as I had thought going into this. Both were able to handle thicker tree limbs and both were able to handle smaller things like 1" or less cedar branches, and stalky weeds like milkweed and thistle. I'll be honest and say that I have a hard time picking a winner here and I think I would need more time to work with them. If the work was only the 1" branches, I think I would give the win to the Sirupate not because the Mk1 didn't handle them just as well, but because the Mk1 is more tiring (it's heavier). However, the opposite is true on the thicker stuff where I can let the Mk1's weight do a lot of work for me. The shelter belts were a mix of thick and thin so each blade had to handle either end of the spectrum so things more or less balanced out.

Sirupate:
I wrestled with what length and edge grind to get on this blade and on the advice of Bigeard09, I did not go with the 16" and instead selected the 14" and I'm glad I did. The length gave the tip speed I needed (and som reach for higher limbs) but was not so long that it hindered my swings where there were too many branches around where it could get caught p. The length also helped keep my hand away from the less skin friendly branches/brush as I was working. The thin handle made it easy to keep a good grip and it never felt like it was in any danger of flying out of my hand. The flared end does rub on the heel of my palm but I think that's more due to my hands not having the proper khukuri callouses (or much of any to be honest).

This is the type of work being done. Branches overhanging and getting in the way of mowing the yard and ditch. Branches ranged from 1" to about 3" where they were being chopped. Most were taken down in one swift easy swing and the thicker branches took less that I would have thought. SAFETY NOTE: If you swing with your right hand, keep your right leg forward and your left leg back, especially for low targets. If it's in the mid 90's and you're getting fatigued, take a break. I have to get a new pair of boots now and thank God nothing anything worse than that.


As I said, heavy stuff was no issue and took very few swings to take care of. I can say though that it is far more tiring to swing overhead repeatedly than it is mid or low.


Mk1:
The Mk1 was everything I hoped it would be and is the perfect blend of looks great and works great. It's a heavy chopper that isn't too heavy, the edge profile bites good and deep just wanting to "thunk" into the wood. The distal taper makes it very controlable for it's size and the most surprising thing for me is how much I like the handle. I have average size hands if not longer fingers than average and despite the large diameter of this handle, it is surprisingly comfortable to grip and I never once felt out of control. The circular flare also does very well at not digging into the heel of my palm like the more common grip does. Ergonomically, I like it better than the Siru's thinner handle which I think gave more hand fatigue due to the more "cramped" hold on the smaller handle. But again, it's a give and take.

Chopping a thicker mulbery tree branch. The Mk1 does not need any shoulder work when chopping. Just your typical wrist flick and it will do the rest. Not to mention, you'll get better accuracy and chop far less than some of thie wild hacking in some review videos I've seen.

Mk1 biting into some cedar. Not many photos inside the shelter belt I'm afraid as it's been quite a year for mosquitos and I simply wasn't going in there.

Complaints:
I work as an Industrial Designer and a chief complaint I have now as I did back during critique in school was that too many people are too nice to give negative points to grow from. This is a "take it with a grain of salt" section. I do not know their process or limitations.

Everything about these blades has been phenomenal so, I have to get picky. There are some fit/finish issues. The Mk1 rings are rougher than what I typically see in photos which hurts from an aesthetics/collector standpoint. It still works, still feels good in the hand. The sirupate has deep texture marks that have already been brought up and Andrew said he would address it so, no more to get into there. It also has a void in the epoxy where the blade comes out of the bolster, likely as a result drying/curing process since the bolster opening looks biased to one side. Again, absurdly minor and I'm just going to fill it with some beeswax to keep it plugged and no one will ever know. Just a little trick learned in a flintlock build class from a professional builder. Honestly, I'm hesitant to call them complaints since these are handmade and that's part of why I buy them. If I wanted a mass produced machine made tool with no soul or character, I wouldn't be here.

Final Notes:
Each blade did quite a bit of work and both were still paper slicing sharp afterward. Just because it was there, I did a little chopping on some dry wood (cross grain chopping) but they did very little as one might expect. That's saw work, not khukuri work anyway but, the edges still held up. All in all I am very pleased with the work the Kailash team has done. The blades are excelent, the handles are excelent, the sheaths (which never get enough credit) are excelent and each blade fits like a glove. I already had a couple more blades on order before this review so we'll see where that goes in the future!
 
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An unreal review!
The 14" is definitely a handier size than the 16" and can be very versatile.

I think that if the edges lose a little bit of that out of box keenness you might see the sirupate pull ahead of the mk1 a bit more in light, flexible brush. To excel at this kind of task the blade needs to to go as deep into the material before the material can move and get pushed out of the way. Important factors are branch flexibility, branch weight, blade speed, blade weight and cutting resistance.

Heavier branches have more inertia and stiffer branches move less easily. They both absorb more energy from the edge before getting pushed by the blade. This means more power can be transferred- particularly with slower strikes.
Higher blade speeds can make it deeper into the branch before the inertia of the branch is overcome and it starts getting pushed.
More cutting resistance (less sharpness) means that the blade starts pushing the branch earlier, which robs a lot of power transfer.
Heavier blades can impart more maximum energy which is great for big solid logs. But for lighter, flexier branches the back end of this power gets soaked up be the branch moving. The heavier blades can also be more fatiguing in brush clearing, where getting the blade up to speed (and crucially, stopping it on the overswing) can really tire you out.

Sorry to hear your boots had a run in with a blade- these are big, heavy, sharp blades and once they're moving they can be very dangerous to anything that's in the way, particularly on overswings. I'm glad you've come out of it relatively unscathed- there are worse ways to learn this lesson. When I have customers approaching me regarding a blade for wilderness survival situations I often point them towards lighter/shorter/more controllable blades for this reason- they're less fatiguing to use and are safer to use when very tired.

The feedback is appreciated- I'll be sure to pass it on to the team particularly the points about the handle rings.

Overall great to hear you're loving the blades and I'm sure they'll see plenty of work in future :)
 
It definitely made me wonder how a 14" with a full tang would have been a bit less tiring or would have been a wash since it may not handle the heavier stuff as well without the forward weight. Give and take. Otherwise for the lighter branches a fair bit is method. I see people try to "lightsaber" their way through at a near perpendicular angle and then call the blade unsuited for the task.

Cutting my boot was unfortunate but it's a good lesson to take and remember to work at a more steady, careful deliberate pace. I would have to agree with you about the shorter blade. I have a 10" that's very capable for it's size but I think I would have had a harder time doing the treeline. The 14" from Kailash was intended to fill a specific role but won't be replacing my "pack blade" any time soon.

Hopefully the "complaints" aren't taken the wrong way. For all I know the more pronounced rings might make the handle harder to use for me. I would be curious to know how others have taken them.
 
There's quite a bit of variability in handle (and blade) shaping on historical fort william mk1s. Here's a picture of two that are pretty similar to what we produce.
When we first started making these blades the handle rings were made medium sized, then over time they just drifted to being bigger and bigger. The mk1 is a polarising handle. Some people love the rounded pommel flare and handle rings, some people hate the thickness and handle rings. We got some pretty consistent negative feedback regarding handle ring shaping and size last year and upon review we found that they had both become larger and lost a bit of their classic roundness. This created a difficult situation where they were a bit fat to sit between the fingers easily. We reinforced handle ring standards and are now back to where we were originally, maybe a little smaller and maybe a little rounder. I feel these are pretty close to the historical originals also.
The complaints aren't taken with any negative tone whatsoever- it's good feedback and it helps us to improve :)
 
Great write up on both khukuris Bill and also well answered from Andrew at Kailash . I am awaiting the delivery of my 12" Sirupate in a western leather sheath with a baldrick style carry rig . If the fit and finish are similar to my MSI then I will be well pleased . It was interesting to read about the handle rings being rougher on the Mk1 than what you normally see in the photos . I dont have an explanation for this other than to say because these are hand made objects then maybe it could be down to the different individual smiths who produce each khukuri ? I only know that the guy who made my MSI ( WITH THE SUN SIGN) did an absolutely first class job on the blade , handle (excellent and comfortable) and scabbard . Maybe this is something Andrew can investigate for all style khukuris as the shape , fit and ergonomics of the handle is as important as the blade .
 
I'll be looking forward to a review to see how the 12" compares, Bigeard.

And you're absolutely right that these are handmade and I would be suspicious if things were too perfect. These are working blades too so it wouldn't matter if they looked good if they didn't work well. At the end of the day, the folks at Kailash aren't making mall ninja blades.

I always try to put in a "what could be improved" part in a review whenever possible or else I think it comes off as fake (as I see it). If all I have to pick at is a bit of rough finishing on a handmade blade, that's a good thing. Other than that, I leave it to Andrew and everyone at Kailash to determine what meets standard or not. Even though I gave the technical win to the Sirupate in the review, I would say that the Mk1 is actually my favorite so far.


But, I do have a question for Andrew: On the website it has an option for a micarta wrap handle for the Mk1. How does that come out with that handle shape with no end cap?
 
But, I do have a question for Andrew: On the website it has an option for a micarta wrap handle for the Mk1. How does that come out with that handle shape with no end cap?
For the mk1 we can do micarta wrap without buttcap- we wrap excess over the back of the handle and trim it down flush to match the nut. We can't so stacked leather without a full buttcap though so all stacked leather handles get one (mk1, mutiny, salyani, falo).
 
I'll be looking forward to a review to see how the 12" compares, Bigeard.

And you're absolutely right that these are handmade and I would be suspicious if things were too perfect. These are working blades too so it wouldn't matter if they looked good if they didn't work well. At the end of the day, the folks at Kailash aren't making mall ninja blades.

I always try to put in a "what could be improved" part in a review whenever possible or else I think it comes off as fake (as I see it). If all I have to pick at is a bit of rough finishing on a handmade blade, that's a good thing. Other than that, I leave it to Andrew and everyone at Kailash to determine what meets standard or not. Even though I gave the technical win to the Sirupate in the review, I would say that the Mk1 is actually my favorite so far.


But, I do have a question for Andrew: On the website it has an option for a micarta wrap handle for the Mk1. How does that come out with that handle shape with no end cap?
Hi bill , just posted an initial review / writeup for my new Sirupate , photos to follow
 
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