ML Kehpart (or three) First Impressions and Longevity Review.

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Mar 19, 2007
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Kephart:

Handforged full tang 1095 High Carbon Steel.
Overall size about: 8 7/16” blade Size about 4 3/16”
Handle size about 4 1/4”
Spine Tang about: 1/8” thick

Kephart Fish Knife:

Hand forged full tang 1095 High Carbon Steel
blade length about 3"
Handle 3 1/4"
Clean hand rubbed satin finish.
3/32" spine thickness.

Here are the first pics of the knives. I have not had much of a chance to use them as I wanted to lighten the handles just a bit and reseal them before using them.

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Matt was, again, VERY easy to work with and he sent me pics every step of the way. Came in UNDER time by nearly two weeks and right on budget. The fit and finish were AWESOME, in essence perfect, and the knives came truly refined and sharp. My only concern is that must finish them with a cigar in his mouth - HOLY COW - he needs to check his lungs! ;) The smell was strong on those bad boys!

I ordered these without sheaths and the price was frankly great.

I ordered one for my brother as well - and I have Walt Davis wipping me up some matching fire steels. Matt was kind enough to ship me some extra wood (left over from the making of the knives) so that I could make my own and when I get some time - I will do so.

Here you can see the initials of my brother and I that Matt stamped into the blades:

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Here is a comparison shot with my Bernie Garland:

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The only feedback I have right now is that the handle is a little small in length. That is not to say it is too small or uncomfortable - just that most Keppies are a little longer - my Woods and Bush was a little longer - but I don't think this is a bad thing overall. The knife is not unwieldy - or hard to use - in fact it is very nimble - I am used to an extra 1/4 inch or so - and my hand seems to want it.

With that said - the knife is very easy to use. It is more comfortable in choking up and chest lever cuts. I think it is simply something to get used to.

In regards to the Fish knife - this one is nice. It will work perfectly to scale and fillet a fish. I need to get out and test this on some fish to let you know how it goes.

More pics as I go with this pair.


TF
 
So - the knives above went through a lot of changes... and... well - I gave them away.

Now my Father and Brother own the matching pair made above - and I made sheaths for them about two years ago.

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These are now HARD using hunting knives with my brother and my father. I got them a strop and taught them how to sharpen convex knives - and they love them.

Here is my brother using his Kephart a few times:

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My brother is awesome - and deserves a great knife. So - now he has one. He tells me all the time how he never needs another knife. I am very happy he uses it. I always post up on ML's site when my brother gets another deer. I think he takes at as a compliment.

The Kephart Fisher - however - never really grew on me.

It was an awesome knife, sharp, thin, capable, great with fish - but was, like its Kephart Brother - a little short in the handle for me.

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This one I sold.

So - why am I doing a review without a Kephart to my name. Never fear. I am dumb- but I am not stupid. I had two new knives in my hands from Matt before I gave the last one to my father.

I called Matt - asked him to make me another Kephart - with a slightly longer handle - and put my initials on it. Yup - I had him put my initials on this one because I knew I would never part with this knife BEFORE he made it. Nothing has changed my mind yet. ;)

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MY ML Kephart:

Specs:

Overall Length 9.426
Handle Length: 4.809
Blade Length: 4.617
Edge Length: 4.488
Blade Thickness: 0.120
Blade Steel: 1090
Blade Height - from edge to spine: 1.169
Handle Thickness at rear and middle of handle: 0.950
Handle Thickness near Ricasso: 0.665
Handle Scale Material: Tiger Maple
Pin and Lanyard Tube Material: Brass

Background:

I called Matt after I realized that I wanted to give my knife away to my father - and ordered another two (A Modified Kephart - and Modified Patch Knife to take the place of the Kephart Fisher. Matt was fast, fair, and had great communication. I have now owned, or own, seven ML Knives and would not hesitate to order another. I don't like to go to his website - as it tends to cost me money. ;)

Fit and Finish:

Matt makes a very rustic knife. He hand forges the steel and uses all the old school techniques when putting a knife together. This knife is like owning a custom Old Hickory on Sterioids. It just screams old school. Anyway, Matt's fit and finish are very equal to the type of knife he puts out. The top of the blade I had him leave 'as forged' (this is an option) and it all the hammer marks show. He puts a hell of a grind on it though and the knife comes razor sharp out of the box. Matt is the only maker I do not sharpen his knives when I get them. I use them - and then touch them up. His grinds are very even, very symmetrical, and the convex is so gradual from spine to edge as to be almost sublime.

One thing I love about Matt is that he has a TRUE convex on his edges. He doesn't make a convex blade and then quickly rip out a micro double bevel to sharpen his knives. He takes his time, obviously with honing and polishing - and has a true convex blade and edge.

The scales came sanded to a very fine grit and the blade and scales matched perfectly. However, Tiger Maple is a lot more 'alive' on the blade and depending on the weather and the humidity level - the scales will shift on you a little. Sometimes they get a little proud of the metal - sometimes they shrink a little. You have to be anal to notice this - and I have never noticed it in use. Matt puts a natural finish on his scales that allow the wood to breathe (in his words) - and the knife is truly a thing of old school beauty.

Because I asked for an extra 1/2 inch on the handle - he put a lanyard tube (His suggestion - no up charge) on the rear. the pins and tube are perfectly in line and simply melt into the wood around them they are so well fit.

With todays water jet blades, C&C finished handles, and automated grinding - this knife can look almost crude in comparison to some knives on the market. However, just because this knife is not going to win any beauty contests in terms of 'spit and polish' but it was never intended to. It was intended to be faithful to Horace Kepharts design and be a hard working, living, tool. It is everything of that and more. It isn't perfect... but it looks "right" - if you get what I am trying to say.

Original Sharpening:

I always include this portion on my review as I almost always sharpen my knives before even putting them on my belt - but I have learned that this is superfluous with ML Knives. With that said - I have sharpened this Kephart dozens of times - and the 1090 is a joy to sharpen. I use a JRE strop bat while at home and a chunk of leather and wet, dry sand paper out in the field. I have also sharpened this knife with a DC4 in the field - and always had great results.

I tend to always sharpen my knives the full width of the grind. I find this does not allow for an acute shoulder to form on my convex edges and keeps the original grind true. I find this knives needs little more than touching up with used 2000 grit wet dry after a weekend of hard use and some stropping to be silly sharp.

Blade Geometry:

The blade thickness is essentially 1/8th inch thick and the grind is nearly 1/2 inch wide. This leaves the knife convex edge very sharp, thin, and makes for an awesome slicer. However, I have not found it to be weak while battoning or in hard use. There is something in Matt's forging and heat treat that leaves a knife that is very hard - but also easy to sharpen - and flexible and forgiving. I have no idea about metalurgy or the art of forging - I just know when I slice meat with it - it is easy to press too hard... when I hammer the spine of it - it goes through kindling. I really don't give a shit if he uses pixy dust or shakes a chickens foot at his blades - as long as they work as well as they do - I will keep buying them.

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Horace Kephart himself admitted this knife design was not a very pretty design. He also knew a good thing when he had it in his hands. The blade looks a little over long. The finger guard looks like someone didn't have the right tools to grind something decent. The handle looks like someone split a broom stick and put it on both sides. Let's just be honest - as knife designs go - she is not the prettiest girl at the dance.

However, the blacksmith that put the first "Kephart" knife together for him, knew what the hell he was doing:

The Spear point on the blade gives acceptable drilling accuracy while giving you a nice place to start while skinning.
The straight long blade gives you a ton of room to make anything from fuzz sticks - or flip around and use as a draw knife as needed.
The long blade makes it easy to full choke up on for fine work if necessary.
The neutral handle (slightly tapered toward the blade) makes it comfortable in almost any position while the larger round guard makes for a safe use and a way to know where your knife is in low light situations.
The slight taper on the scales make putting your thumb on the flat of the blade comfortable as well as choking up a breeze.

I don't know what it is about this design - but damn it - it works. I have been converted. I always thought they were damned ugly - and frankly still do - but I don't care. It works and does what I want it to do - so screw aesthetics. Let form follow function.

Balance:

The blade balances right behind the first pin and slightly behind where your forefinger would go. This is not a nimble knife as it is a larger knife - but it is quick in the hand - and feels good to use in long term situations.

Handle Design:

There isn't much to say here. It is a dowel - split in half - with a guard cut in. Sorry - but it is... This is the most neutral handled blade I own. It feels the same in nearly every position. It is a hand full - and feels great. Again, I don't care that it looks simplistic. Simple is hard. This handle is perhaps the most comfortable knife I have to use for a long time. If I have to carve something or work for a long time with a knife - I will grab this blade - or my Straight Back Kephart by ML.

With that said. Matt knows how to use Tiger Maple. I have had some great luck with his knives and this handle has some awesome figuring. It isn't the hardest wood on the block - but it is forgiving and comfortable.

Overall Feelings:

I have used this knife for some time and it is a go to blade for me. Matt is a great guy who sells a great product at an unbelievably fair price. I am glad his waiting list has grown and I hope he makes knives for a long time to come. I am sure I am not done ordering from him.

TF
 
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Fantastic review...man you are well on your way to selling me on ML knives. I really want the Straight Back Kephart (+1/2" on the handle of course). Function over beauty for me. Now I have to figure out how to unload my Liten Bror.
I have seen you say your BRKT Gunny is one of your favorite knives, and you also give the ML Kephart a raving review...yet they seem to be almost opposite. Do they even compare?
 
Another great review. Thanks for posting - you sure know how to put it in words :thumbup:
Great leather work too.

Matt's grind is something one has to try out to believe. One of the best convex I used.
I recently picked up on the exchange one of his 'Woods and Bush knife' (thanks LMT66).
A variation on the kephart design - narrower blade, pointier.
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Tek 77 - is that the Woods and Bush knife that you own - or is it a different picture. I ask because I sold LMT66 a Woods and Bush - you may have my old one! ;)

Ready me:

They certainly are different - but I will say this - if you like the Gunny - you will LOVE the straight back Kephart.

I am not sure what you mean by opposite - they both a metal pointy things with a convex edge and a handle. That seems a lot alike. ;)

Despite the drop point vs. spear point and the more netural handle - they are both great knives. Great knives are just great knives.

I am going to do an update review on my ML Straight back in the next day or so - watch for that - and sell that Liten Bror - someone will want it. It is a great knife - but too small for my tastes.

TF
 
TF,
Thanks. Trying my posts together I see.
I have not used the Gunny, but I traded a Bravo 1 for the Liten Bror. I thought the Bravo 1 was too big in all dimensions. I could have lived with it, except the thickness of the steel was a deal-breaker.
The ML knives seem to be more of what I am looking for. Thin blade (1/8" is my max these days), descent belly, thick and comfortable handle.
I guess a gold membership is needed. I have Ben doing a lot of trading of knives trying to save the membership cost.
I have the Liten Bror up on the trade pages trying to see if there is any interest. Even if I find something, I think the MK straight back kephart is on the short list.
Thank you for the help. And I would love to check out your collection, but it is a bit of a drive from Seattle.
 
Tek 77 - is that the Woods and Bush knife that you own - or is it a different picture. I ask because I sold LMT66 a Woods and Bush - you may have my old one! ;)TF
That's the picture of the knife knife I own - just got it a few days ago. Not sure if it was yours or not, but sure wish it had one of your leather sheaths. Nothing wrong with Matt's leather work though.
 
Do you think there is an advantage to a hand forged knife (ML) vs stock removal knives?
Seems that is a major difference ML has compared to other knife makers and companies.
 
Tek - mine was sold with my leather - so it isn't mine. ;)

Readyme: In my very uneducated opinion, (I would post this up in the blade makers forum - but I would wager you would get as many opinions as you got responses) that steel, when ground well, heat treated well, made for its purpose, and used for its purpose - all works VERY VERY well.

I have stock removal 1090 and hand forged 1090 - and because I am a user not a metallurgist I find they all do what I want them to do and act virtually the same. Remember, though, I am just a driver, not a maker or a mechanic. I don't have an interest in learning much of what our very knowledgeable blade makers on this forum know - but there are some that I trust.

One told me - and I am paraphrasing - that there are advantages and disadvantages to every steel and every type of knife making - it all depends on what YOU want to do with the knife.

If you are looking for a basic bushcrafting knife - a quality stock removed or quality hand forged knife will act identically for you - given the qualifications mentioned above. The trick, I have found, is a maker who knows what they are doing with what they make. ML, BRKT, Fiddleback, Wildertools, Stomper, Koster, Ray Laconico, Adventure Sworn, ESEE, Walt Davis and many others on this board - all know what they are doing, in my experience. The advantage of these makers, as well, is that if anything did go wrong (an anomaly in heat treat for instance) they will make it right.

In short - you are asking the wrong person for facts - so all I can give you is my anecdotal experience. There are many more qualified people on this board who can answer this question in a much more educated manner.

TF

p.s. Remember though that we are talking expensive knives and custom makers (or semi custom). Most of my friends cannot tell the difference between a custom hunter and a Ka-Bar hunter when I let them use one. I may get a comment like 'that's cool' - or 'that's pretty' - but as long as it cuts their bag of hot dogs open - they could care less. For the most part, I could use a Mora, or a Ka-bar Hunter my whole life and have little in the way of a diminished life. It all depends on what YOU want from a knife.

What I have done is tried out a bunch, dared to fail, and sold the ones I didn't like (at times for a very minimal loss). I have kept the ones that either I cannot part with - or are part of my carrying rotation. I am fortunate to have a little bit of extra money (from selling sheaths) to be able to afford nice steel from great makers - but would have little issue with selling all of my knives (I own about 12) and keeping one if my Family needed the money.

Think about what you want from a knife - and go from there. But here is my two pennies. If you liked the Bravo one - but it was a little thick - get a lightly used Gunny. Learn how to sharpen it properly and decide what you want out of an edge. In the mean time, get on ML's waiting list for a straight back Kephart - you then can have you cake, eat it too, and sell the one that you don't use as much for very little loss. I view this loss, if I incur it, as rent for the privilege of trying out a knife.

Take my words with a grain of salt - that is about what they are worth.
 
Its my old bush knife i got it from ML i put it up for sale to help fund my Alaska trip:thumbup:
 
I am kinda taken with Matt's work also. This is about half of his blades that I have acquired;

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Oh yeah, the cigar aroma always kinda cracked me up. No problem, just a workin man!!!!

Doc
 
This thread just gave me a little taste of what I have in store once my wait is up. I can't wait!! I look in the sale section daily to see if someone is letting one of his knives go. More pics please! :D
 
Your review got me to order a Kephart knife from Matt. I actually like the aesthetics of the Kephart in general and have been wanting to get one for a while. I am really looking forward to getting it, but it will be quite a ways off.

Thanks for the thorough review Talfuchre.
 
How are you guys caring for your Kepharts blade? I find that whenever mine is dry it like to form a serious patina. With a very light coat of oil, I left it in the sheath and now it has a permanent brown coloring in some spots. Is this knife going to eat itself before I ever get the chance to destroy it?
 
This is the only pic I have at the moment. (Sorry it's an old cell pic) I've since added a small custom mini nessmuk (stag handle). I'm a big fan of Matt's work!


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Cool man, I like the knife and the thought-tinkering you put into writing about it. I hate Kephart aesthetics but am on the list to pick up a BRK Kephart in 3V because it's a proven model I have yet to try and who the hell cares what it looks like.
 
How are you guys caring for your Kepharts blade? I find that whenever mine is dry it like to form a serious patina. With a very light coat of oil, I left it in the sheath and now it has a permanent brown coloring in some spots. Is this knife going to eat itself before I ever get the chance to destroy it?

It is the 'leaving in the sheath' that is your issue. Light coat of oil and store OUTSIDE the sheath. You sheath could have chemicals on it or in it that could be causing accelerated erosion.

TF
 
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