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- Mar 19, 2007
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Hand Forged full tang 1095 High Carbon Steel
Overall size about: 9 1/2”
Blade Size about: 4 9/16”
Cutting Edge: about a 4 1/8”
Handle size about 4 3/4” with a slight palm swell
Spine Tang about: 1/8” thick
Blade width about: 1” wide at widest point.
Initial Impressions:
When was the last time you opened a knife, and simply said 'Wow'? I did with the ML knife that I just received from Matt at ML Knives.
I have learned a few things over the last few years, mostly listening to guys who know edges on this board and owning and selling a lot of knives, that the steel and the edge are the most important things to have perfect. The scales can be modified, the looks can be cleaned up some, but if the edge, steel, and geometry are off - you are likely stuck with it.
I pulled the Woods and Bush knife out and immediately set upon inspecting the edge. Matt really got the convex correct on this. It is a slight taper all the way down the blade from spine to edge with an edge that was VERY sharp, clean and even.
I immediately when out in the garage and set to beating the knife up. I used hard wood in chest lever and hammer grip to see if the edge was sharp and would not roll. Great in both categories, and I hadn't even polished the edge yet.
I went back inside and checked out the handle. I loved the feel of it. I had him leave a lot of fatness on the scales while having him taper the front of the handles toward the ricasso.
It is VERY beefy, very comforable, and yet nimble in the hand. It is very comfortable in the hammer grip - but easily comfortable in the chest lever and reverse grip.
I was not as happy with the finish on the handle. I had Matt rework the handle from its original contour - so the rework could have caused some muddying of the look. I do think Matt could have taken a little more time with the hand sanding, so I set to the handle with 600 then 2000 grit sand paper. I cleaned it up, restained it (I liked golden oak a little more) and then sealed it with many thin thin coats of boiled linseed oil. The result seemed a little brighter and brought out the wood grain a little more - but this should be measured in little bits as the handle looked pretty darn good when I got it.
After everything dried overnight I polished the handle by hand and set to comparing it to other knives I know are tried and true. I compared it to an Aurora style knife from BRKT, and a Koster Bushcraft. It cuts smoother and slices just slightly better than the Aurora due to the thinner stock, but it does not cut as well in wood as the Koster. However, I think the ML Knife would have over all more applications in the woods than the Scandi grind. In my experience Scandi's excell at wood cutting - but take getting used to in dressing game and the like.
This is to be expected and over all I was simply wowed by the edge retention (not a single chip, roll, or even dull spot) and I think it would work very well in hundreds of bushcraft applications.
I talked to Matt again, who took my call personally and answered all the questions I had, and I was so impressed with his work and willingness to cater to what I want ("I can do whatever you like!") I ordered two more knives from him. Matching Kepharts for my brother and I.
Here is the kicker. All three knives will cost less than 400 dollars, without sheaths. How can you beat that?
The Woods and Bush knife 149 plus shipping with a sheath, and a little less without. I think this is a VERY good price for what you get.
TF
