MM Grinder – Israeli Version

Joined
Jan 12, 2010
Messages
99
This post is first of all a "thank you" post. Thanks a lot to all of you who patiently answered all my questions
and where ready to help and share information. Another big special thank you goes to Mr. Michael Morris from
www.michaelmorrisknives.com, a decent, rare gentleman, who was kind enough and gave me his
permission, shared his time and helped me a lot with building of what I see as a version of his famous wooden
grinder. Thanks M, it would not be the same without your kind help.
Of course - I will appreciate any criticism or idea. BTW, the engine is a 3 HP unit .
Best regards – Michael Steinmann.

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Looks like a no-nonsense grinder,I'm sure you'll do some great work with it,and MM really does some great work I have 2 0r 3 of his knives and his grinds are super clean and crisp--looking forward to seeing some of your work,so get to it---Regards Butch
 
That is super slick. I've seen plywood wheels before but could not find any Info online on making them. Any idea the dollar cost and man hours invested in this unit?
 
How are you going to adjust or increase belt tension?


I believe that the weight of the motor is insufficient.
the first time you touch steel to the belt, the belt will dive to the side.
 
How are you going to adjust or increase belt tension?


I believe that the weight of the motor is insufficient.
the first time you touch steel to the belt, the belt will dive to the side.

I suspect you are right. A tight belt is key on getting a belt to track perfectly
 
I agree, adding a belt tension is needed.
Drill a 3/4" hole in the motor plate just in front of the motor. Put a 12" length of threaded rod through the hole and attach with two nuts and bolts. Put a handle or knob on the other end (Wooden handle or drill out a billiard ball).
Just behind the motor, drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the motor plate. Put a short ,heavy spring in this hole and connect the other end to a toggle bolt. Connect the toggle bolt to a stud or eye bolt mounted behind the motor on the base plate. The spring/toggle will allow the tension to be adjusted as needed, and the handle can be pulled forward to change belts.
 
I agree, adding a belt tension is needed.
Drill a 3/4" hole in the motor plate just in front of the motor. Put a 12" length of threaded rod through the hole and attach with two nuts and bolts. Put a handle or knob on the other end (Wooden handle or drill out a billiard ball).
Just behind the motor, drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the motor plate. Put a short ,heavy spring in this hole and connect the other end to a toggle bolt. Connect the toggle bolt to a stud or eye bolt mounted behind the motor on the base plate. The spring/toggle will allow the tension to be adjusted as needed, and the handle can be pulled forward to change belts.
Are you a engineer by chance? You come up with quick designs way too quickly for me to think otherwise lol
 
Hi Michael,

That is really great looking! I like all the innovative design elements, especially the tracking adjustments on the motor hinge. I'm guessing you have put it to use and find its performance acceptable. Are you having problems that need to be solve as some of the other posters have suggested? If the weight of the motor really isn't enough to keep the belt taunt and free of drift, couldn't just hanging some additional weight on it be a simple solution?

It you can shoot a video, such as youtube, of it in action it would be fun for us to see.

All the best, Phil
 
Hello friends. Thank you all. The engine is a 3 HP monster and has no power lack. It weights about 45 lbs (!) and that weight is enough as you will agree… In fact, you can see that I was forced to take the engine/hinge up, closer to center of gravity so that the stretch on the belt will be reduced. I can now push the belt up & down as far as a bit less then ½ an inch, which is ok. So far – no problem. I will be glad to answer or take close ups if any one is interested. Nice day to all – Michael.
 
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