Kumdo:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">If it is possible that one would actually completely blow out the edge to the primary grind, Ted will re-grind it for free.</font>
Depending on how the hollow grind is done, the damage could be that extensive that you would actually need to redo the primary grind and significantly alter the gross blade geometry. In regards to lateral impacts, depending on the nature of the hollow grind, these could actually blow nearly the whole thing out depending on the depth of the curvature. Hollow grinds are weak in this regard as the edge is not supported by the primary grind at all and in fact it is the other way around, which you don't want.
I should clarify however, that damage to the primary grind is a fairly extreme case. Outside of lateral impacts it is very difficult to do that much damage to an edge. The only times I have seen it happen on moderate impacts were with brittle steels (Carbon V). With a tougher steel this would take some doing indeed, something along the lines of cutting tempered glass, or case hardened bolts, even thick seasoned bone can't do this, nor will rock generally, it has the necessary hardness, but the contact area is usually too large.
The only real concerns I can see durability wise are (a) from a martial aspect, if you wanted the blade to be able to take hard lateral impacts (another blade, chain, metal bar etc.), and/or (b) if you wanted to be able to do heavy prying with the edge. Having a 1/4" spine doesn't do anything to help the edge if it is hollow ground to about 1/16" or so. Again, curvature is significant. Deep hollow grinds are very weak compared to shallow ones which are very close to flat grinds (which are just hollow grinds with an infinite radius of curvature).
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">If you are chopping wood, your best tool would be an ax</font>
Depends on the type and size of wood. Soft woods like Alders are readily cut with a decent heavy bowie much easier than using a hatchet and an axe is really overkill, same thing in general for most limbing and brush clearing in general as opposing to felling. Axes/hatchets are designed for really thick wood and deep penetration without binding. You want to be felling really large wood before a hatchet outperforms a decent large blade, along the lines of building a cabin or similar.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">if we are talking about bowies or large knives, it's assumed that they are intended for slicing as well.</font>
Yes, but I would not pick a sabre hollow grind for that.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Wouldn't you say that the hollow grind is a good compromise for multiple tasks?</font>
A hollow grind is highly optomized for low penetration cutting. A flat grind is the inbetween grind falling between hollow and convex, generally in most areas of performance and durability.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Also, the thick stock combined with a large grind should be pretty resistant to binding in smallish targets.</font>
If the penetration is low yes, but this really doesn't solve the problem but just transfers it to another area. Now it will be outperformed in regards to penetration.
Bugger in regards to different grinds, as his price are certainly reasonable. I think I'll see if anything turns up in the for sale forum and see if anything turns up. Maybe he is doing something geometry wise to give vastly different performance than I would expect.
-Cliff
[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 06-06-2001).]
