Mnandi inlay question

[humblerodent]

I'm looking at getting a new Mnandi and am trying to decide on the inlay. In deciding between the different woods I started wondering about the toughness of the inlays. I believe the softer woods (box elder, etc) are stabilized, while the hard, dense woods are not (lignum, etc). Assuming I am going to carry and use this knife, and want it to last a lifetime, should I put any consideration into this (stabilized soft wood vs. naturally tough wood), or just get what appeals to me visually?

 

[Haze]

I thought all the wood CRK use was stabalised ? For something like an inlay it doesn't matter really. If you are talking about the hande on a hidden tang fixed blade then there would be things to think about.

 

[humblerodent]

Haze, you may well be right. I guess that was part of my question if anyone knows if they are all stabilized. I read in another thread that the harder woods are not stabilized, but that is hardly a reliable source. That's my instinct too that it doesn't really matter for an inlay. It's just so hard to decide.

Actually, I just thought of a different question that may help. Those of you who have multiple Mnandis, which one do you carry/use the most and why?

 

[Haze]

I don't know for sure, but I would always stabalise any wood I used personally, regardless of what it was. It helps covers ones rear and that is the done thing in any production I would have thought.

I generally look for darker woods like ebony, black wood, or rose wood. The ebony Mnandi that I used to carry held up very well, it now has Ti inlays though.

 

[sk8n]

It is my understanding that Lignum and Cocobolo are two that are not stabilized. Lignum does not require it due to hardness and Cocobolo does not stabilize well due to the natural oils in it. I have never seen direct information from CRK on this though.

 

[Jos]

Just pick what's visually pleasing for you and don't look back!

Kind regards,

Jos