Mobil 1 vs ?

yoda4561

yoda4561

Joined
May 28, 1999
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Looking at overall cost vs-quantity, mobil-1 synthetic is quite cheap compared to most "high end" lubes. I know it's popular nowadays with alot of folks, but how good is it really compared to the likes of FP-10, Break-free, or militec as far as lubrication goes. Anyone have any experience comparing them? I'm thinking of picking up a quart of the lightest weight I can find and seeing how it works.
 
well 5W/30 mobil 1 is what my vette was factory filled with and i still use it, changed from regular oil to mobil 1 in my '03 impala and picked up almost 10% in gas mileage.

as far as lubing knives i suppose it would be ok, i really dont worry about cost for knife lube as a $6 bottle of tuffglide probably will last me 12 to 18 months at least. i have a spray can of mobil one FWIW, i guess its the same thing just in a spray can.
 
The idea of using a automotive oil for knife lubrication is interesting. A lubricant for high temps, a forced supply system, etc. Not a knife.

But honestly, for the 6-12 bucks you can get something a bit more clingy, like Militec (easily a year plus supply - not a TuffGlide fan myself).

Just as SIFU1A doesn't skimp for his cars, don't skimp on your knives. The price ain't goin' to kill you.
 
I have used the 5W-50 fully synthetic motor oil (used mainly for Motorcycles) for a long time on knifes now (and for my bearings in my competition inline skates and on bikechains as well, though for that I like to mix in some grease). I like it. It has good lubricity, it contains corrosion prohibitors and it is a lot heavier than most of the MP oils. Has nothing to do with being cheap (actually for a motor oil it is anything BUT cheap). I think it simply works. And I have never really been a fan of the oils that leave essentially a dry film. It tends to run more over the insides of the knife because it is heavier, if that bothers you...

Each to their own I guess.
 
For motor oil it's expensive, but compared to the cost of a 4 oz bottle of most better lubes it's dirt cheap. I'll prolly continue using FP-10 for my knives unless mobil-1 works better as a lube, but for general lubrication of stuff like car door hinges, tools, etc, it'll prolly be more economical. Think I should for the heavier weights or the lightest I can find? Thick makes things feel smoother, but it doesn't penetrate as well.
 
yoda i would use the 5W/30 if i could find it thickness isnt gonna help on a knife imho, i like the thinnest stuff i can find myself, imho militec is too thick to work well on some knives (ie my emerson specwar CQC8 doesnt seem to like militec, it makes it "stiff" feeling) which is why i gen'ly use tuffglide which has worked well for me on everything from striders to OTF autos.
 
I agree, motor oil is thick to begin with, use the thinnest you can find. 5W-50 is the same weight (thickness) at room temperature as 5W-30. The second number referes to the viscosity at elevated temperatures. You could even use single weight 5W but I doubt that it is available.

yoda, Yes motoroil is dirt cheap in comparison to, say Militec, but you have to consider the economics here. Mobil sells gallons if not barrels of Mobil 1 per year, Militec ounces. Nothing against the higher priced product at all, but the conclusion that just because they are cheaper to the consumer on oil is cheaper stuff than another is a fallacy. They are simply different formulations for different applications. Try some and see what works best for you. I have tied some fancy stuff for my race bearings till I settle on 5W-50 (for bearings you actually need some high temperature protection as well) but many other racers use different oils. All a matter of personal preference.
 
I used to use Mobil 1 gear oil in my trans and differential; it's good stuff. I have friends who have used the motor oil for years. I've been using Amsoil 0w-30 for several years to great effect in my daily driver; if you're wanting super-low viscosity, that might be the ticket. I have to agree with orthogonal, though. Motor oils, esp. advanced synthetics, are engineered at the molecular level to do a very different job. Detergents and anti-foaming agents are pretty useless in a lock. And besides, the liquid part will probably end up in your pants pocket, and guess what you end up with? A dry film (MoS2, probably). Better to stick with stuff designed for your applicaton, IMHO. Amsoil makes two metal protectants, one regular and one heavy duty. The HD stuff is recommended for things like motorcycle chains, etc. I've never seen Mobil 1 aerosol, but I'd be willing to try it.


I still think Break-Free does the job very well. If you're trying to make your dollar go further, just get it in the non-aerosol bottles; one drop, no waste.
 
Going to try and pare this story down some, but I use S-L-I Liquid Gunsmith on my guns and knives. 100% synthetic, penetrates the metal, dries, more than excellent stuff. I don't have a link on this computer, but do a search for Seal Lock International. It was developed for NASA.

Called the company one Sat a few years ago to inquire about adding it to motor oil. By luck, there was a chem engineer that answered the phone and told me, no, it wasn't designed to withstand the pressures and heat of a internal combustion engine. He then went on to tell me that Mobil 1 was a direct development of this technology and he had worked developing both oils and to get the Mobil 1 for my truck. I have for the last 5 years, still going strong at 110,000 miles.

I also still use the S-L-I Liquid Gunsmith on my guns and knives. It even takes care of black powder corrosion and that is saying something if you have ever shot black.

Rob
 
yep mobil 1 is great oil for engines, in '94 chevrolet was gonna put an oil cooler on corvettes and decided with the mobil 1 it wasnt neccesary, which is why all vettes after '94 IIRC are filled from chevy with mobil 1 and thats what they reccomend also. it can take really high temps and still lube well, much highre than std oil, whats this mean for knives?? well, nothing i suppose lol. i dont think any of us will be getting our folders that hot.
 
I'm most interested in the anti-wear addtives they seem to add to good synthetics. There's been alot of ho-hum about how they prevent proper engine break-in on most cars so I want to see if the lubrication level is similar to our "made for knives/guns/etc" stuff.
 
Actually, I'm thinking the anti-wear additives would be less concentrated in a car oil.

Tribology and all that stuff, but in the end your lookin' at desired characteristics of the mix. Knives are relatively static compared to engines/motors. Calls for a different concentration/mix of chemicals.
 
More than likely, but in the absence of easy to find head to head comparisons, I'll guess I'll just have to do it myself :p
 
if mobil 1 hampered engine break in I doubt they would put it in new vettes.

lotsa makers put synthetic oil in from the factory now, and lots of boat motors too, i would say that them hampering break in is an old wives tail.

if it was gonna hamper it in 1 engine it would hamper it in all imho.
 
The "break-in" problem was an issue back in the day of higher tolerances (up to the 90's).

Had to seat the rings, journal bearings, etc.

Due to lower emissions requirements, tolerances have had to tighten up .

Still, a bit of wear is needed, as evidenced by increased HP with a few thousand miles (even on new cars).
 
still its always "she said/he said", i have never heard one manufacturer say "do not use synthetic oil on new engines because it hampers breakin", nothing is a good enough lube that wear is gonna be "0", i know for a fact that syn oil will leak more if ya already have a leak, but it doesnt have any cons other than that & price imho.
 
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