Mobile sharpening. Truck vs custom sharpening unit?

[Bazzle]

I currently use a 1"x42' belt for most of the sharpening I do. If I created my own system it would be based on the size of this belt.(system already patened). It would have a variable speed motor mounted on a hand cart with vacume, lights, and two diamond wheel's for serrated edges.
The other option is an old Fedex truck that has "A Perfect Edge System" installed. The Perfect Edge system rotates away from the edge. I prefer sharpening into the edge vs away. I have noticed when sharpening cheap knives away from the edge a little flap is left.
Anyone have experience with either of these system's? Opinions please.

 

[REK Knives]

I have experience with sharpening using systems like those but not those specifically. I would think option A would be more economical.... Take it from use, Mobile sharpening isn't all it cracked up to be. You will simply make less than if you sharpen at your shop. This is because you have to deduct travel time and customer talking time from your pay... I have a drop box set up that allows me to make the most money and provide a great service.

Probably too much info lol but I figured I would offer anyway :-D

Bottom line, I would start small with an economy car and see how it goes.

 

[Cereal_killer]

I currently use a 1"x42' belt for most of the sharpening I do. If I created my own system it would be based on the size of this belt.(system already patened). It would have a variable speed motor mounted on a hand cart with vacume, lights, and two diamond wheel's for serrated edges.
The other option is an old Fedex truck that has "A Perfect Edge System" installed. The Perfect Edge system rotates away from the edge. I prefer sharpening into the edge vs away. I have noticed when sharpening cheap knives away from the edge a little flap is left.
Anyone have experience with either of these system's? Opinions please.

How safe if it (for your self and the blade) to sharpen on a belt into the edges? The "little flap", could you describe it? Like a burr?

 

[Bazzle]

Agreed. Not only is their travel time but "talk" time is huge. I have been sharpening on site for restaurants, and institutions for a year and a half. Profits look good until I add up my expenses and time. I want to remain a Mobile service, but I need to become more efficient. Most of the places I sharpen I am able to do so in the kitchen. There are a few though that I must do it outside. In that case I have a folding table and a small generator to run my machine.
I also have a few stores that I use as a drop off point. They have a price list on the counter and has been quite successful.

 

[Bazzle]

How safe if it (for your self and the blade) to sharpen on a belt into the edges? The "little flap", could you describe it? Like a burr?

I expect I have sharpened nearly 5K knives rotating the belt into the edge without a problem. I have a KMG grinder and when using that I tend to grind away from the edge. Not sure exactly why but, I never use that machine to sharpen. Just stock removal.

The "little flap" is like a burr. The only way I have found to remove it is to grind into the blade or drag it loosely into the grain in wood.

 

[Jason B.]

Sharpening into the edge with a belt system is a bit on the risky side and should only be done at low speed.

2x72 systems are also much more efficient for sharpening and with the wider grinding surface it disperse's the grinding pressure and heat build up better.

That little "flap" you see with softer steels can also bee seen with harder steels and is called a burr. Using lighter pressure helps to reduce the size of its formation but your finish polishing steps should be what removes it.

Typically a 2x72 or grinder of some sort, a polishing/buffing wheel to deburr, and some waterstones is all you need.

How are you finishing a edge after machine grinding?

 

[Cereal_killer]

The "little flap" is like a burr. The only way I have found to remove it is to grind into the blade or drag it loosely into the grain in wood.

Um yea, that's not a bad thing, that's how you sharpen knives...

 

[Sadden]

How about you take a step back for a second here.

How much experience do you have? To me it doesnt sound like much.
How do you plan on dealing with clad knives? Large bevel Japanese Knives? Asymetrical Knives?

I think you should get a 2 or 3 piece stone set and do some practicing and expand your knowledge base before attempting an expensive and risky busniess venture in a field where you so clearly lack experience and a technical grasp on what your doing.

Not trying to rain your parade but im pretty sure we have all seen results from guys like this....

 

[Bazzle]

Sharpening into the edge with a belt system is a bit on the risky side and should only be done at low speed.

2x72 systems are also much more efficient for sharpening and with the wider grinding surface it disperse's the grinding pressure and heat build up better.

That little "flap" you see with softer steels can also bee seen with harder steels and is called a burr. Using lighter pressure helps to reduce the size of its formation but your finish polishing steps should be what removes it.

Typically a 2x72 or grinder of some sort, a polishing/buffing wheel to deburr, and some waterstones is all you need.

How are you finishing a edge after machine grinding?

The "flap" is more than a burr. It is like loose dry skin that remains attached to the edge. I expect that honing it beyond what I typically do may eliminate this problem. However, the "Perfect Edge System" starts with a belt and then to 3 different scotchbrite wheels, all rotating away.
I have a 2x72 grinder that stays at home while I use a Viel 1x42 grinder when I am doing mobile sharpening. I finish kitchen knives with a worn 9 micron belt. I would keep the 1x42 size in my design for a self contained sharpening unit or else it wouldn't be so mobile.

 

[Bazzle]

How about you take a step back for a second here.

How much experience do you have? To me it doesnt sound like much.
How do you plan on dealing with clad knives? Large bevel Japanese Knives? Asymetrical Knives?

I think you should get a 2 or 3 piece stone set and do some practicing and expand your knowledge base before attempting an expensive and risky busniess venture in a field where you so clearly lack experience and a technical grasp on what your doing.

Not trying to rain your parade but im pretty sure we have all seen results from guys like this....

Dear Sadden,

I"m sorry you feel I lack experience, technical grasp and a poor knowledge base. All comments and opinions are welcome and thank you for yours. My first real sharpening began 15 years ago using Japanese water stones to sharpen axe, chisel's, slick, broad axe, and draw knives I used while building hand hewn log homes.
Swinging a broad axe for a full day for several years with a good instructor will teach you very quick what is sharp is. I also have 10 years experience in food service. I feel that in sharpening wood working tools vs kitchen tools is that the fibers in meat & veggies., vs wood grain are different and that an axe is sharp at 10k or 15k grit while a kitchen knife is at its best at 2k grit.
I sharpen several single bevel and hamaguri edges a week. Almost all of them are repeat customers. Single bevel knives I am able to use a machine. When I use stones to sharpen a knife I charge an hourly rate.
I understand I still have a lot to learn about sharpening as a business and that is why I am asking questions. As far as what I have done so far, myself and my customers have been very pleased.

 

[HeavyHanded]

The "flap" is more than a burr. It is like loose dry skin that remains attached to the edge. I expect that honing it beyond what I typically do may eliminate this problem. However, the "Perfect Edge System" starts with a belt and then to 3 different scotchbrite wheels, all rotating away.
I have a 2x72 grinder that stays at home while I use a Viel 1x42 grinder when I am doing mobile sharpening. I finish kitchen knives with a worn 9 micron belt. I would keep the 1x42 size in my design for a self contained sharpening unit or else it wouldn't be so mobile.

That sounds like what I would call a wire edge, or to keep it a bit more descriptive, I call it "unsupported steel". Basically anything that falls outside the region defined by the cutting planes. In your case maybe instead of having a hinge, or attachment point like a burr, the metal is simply thinning out and hanging on outside the edge geometry - won't fold without lateral stress of some sort?

If so, I came across this from time to time when I was using powered belts moving away from the edge. Am not sure if more frequent swap outs of the belt, or a slower/faster speed would help. I stopped using my belt sander for sharpening and so never learned a whole lot more about it. I had luck removing it with a cork belt loaded with white rouge, but sometimes had to go back and regrind the edge after removing the unsupported metal at a very high angle.

I feel that in sharpening wood working tools vs kitchen tools is that the fibers in meat & veggies., vs wood grain are different and that an axe is sharp at 10k or 15k grit while a kitchen knife is at its best at 2k grit.

Pretty much mirrors a lot of my own thoughts, though I find some kitchen choppers/ larger chef's knives do benefit from a higher polish, most utility edges are better off with a bit lower polish, especially if the person using it isn't the one maintaining it.

Martin