MOD CQD Mk2 Problem

R

Revierler

Joined
Nov 30, 2003
Messages
170
I bought a used but nice CQD MK2 manual.
I have the following problem(s): upon opening the action seems somehow scratchy. I feel metal scratching on metal. it is rather uneven. Can it be that there´s something like a thin plastic washer missing? Also the secondary security latch wiggles a bit and is engaged nearly without any effort.
Third: I have to loosen the pivot pin screw to an extent where I fear losing it. The blade doesn´t wiggle, though. Even if I tighten it only with a hex bit held with two fingers the blade refuses to move at all. I oiled lightly with Tuf-Glide, which seems to ease things a bit, but still it won´t perform as I expect a knife to perform which costs about USD 400 in my home country.

Can anyone tell me about the intestines of this knife? Can something be missing?
MOD offers to check it, but I fear the former user has already disassembled it, so the warranty may be void. Besides I don´t want to send it about 15.000 miles around the world, let alone the customs procedures.

Any experiences? please email me.:confused:
 
I recall reading that the MOD CQD MK1 and the smaller version both don't have washers. It's machined to tight tolerances so that washers aren't needed, and as you use the knife, the knife is supposed to break in and smooth out.
 
If there is a suspicious noise in pivot -- try just washing it thrououtly and then oil it. Sometimes this could be just dust.
 
I own the same knife and have the same problem. It sure doesn't open like my Benchmades. I don't carry it that much because of the gritty feeling when opening, but it is still a cool knife.
 
I've had one of those.

It's gritty and very difficult to open when new.

There are a few things going on:

1- The plunge lock puts pressure on the blade "tang" (like an AXIS lock). With the black coating on both plunge and tang, it gets very gritty.

2- There are no washers. The washers, like a Microtech, are machined out of the handle slabs.

3- The ball bearing that keeps the blade closed is in place with a tiny spring, as is the plunge lock.

4- If you try to disassemble the knife, it is almost impossible to reassemble. I learned this the hard way. This is a combination of the TINY hex nuts that strip if you look at them funny, and the ultra-tight Locktite they use. Springs and ball bearings go flying everywhere.

I don't recommend it.

This is what I did:

Washed it out VERY thoroughly with dishwasher soap and hot water.

Without lube, work the action maybe 300+ times (i.e. hold the handle in your right hand and the blade spine in the left, and then just open/close it repeatedly. Helps if you're watching TV. NOTE: If you're a klutz, consider taping the blade.)

Then, add some Militec-1 with the heat trick, and work it again.

Wash out thoroughly and re-oil.

The pivot is very tight, and the Aluminium coating is rather rough.

You can also try reducing the pivot tension, but as I said, the bushing makes that not the best solution.

-j
 
Thank you for sharing your experiences :)
Militec-1 is impossible to come by here, but I will try.
I just thought that a knife of this price would have to work smoother than the Xing-Wen for USD 15.--. I reall thought it was defective.
:barf:

Still I like it.

Thank you.
 
Mine is also a bit tight on opening and closing. I think I just need to give mine a good wash though. I take it when ever I travel long distances, if ever needed the carbide window breaker is there in a second along with some SHARP 154cm. Absolutely love the knife. I EDC'ed it for quite awhile about a year or so back(reason it needs a good wash, sitting in the collection collecting dust now) My secondary lock it loose aswell. The light click it makes into the locked postion is not very reasuring but I am fully confident in the plunge lock. Hope this helps! Welcome to the forum. Take Care!!!
 
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I have come to the insight, that all these issues are wanted details of the design ;)
I must say that the echo on may post is really helpful and after searching the forum for some time i found info on just about anything i needed to know.
:)
 
Eeeehh... as is stated before militec is almost impossible to get by here.
I got a specimen bottle from militec directly from USA for free. I eant to thank them in this spot for this. Great service, great lubricant, great conditioner. My glocks love it, too!!! :D

The solution for my problem was a polish of the pivot pin, the plunger and the tang with my dremel and a felt wheel loaded with red paste. Then I simply tightened the pivot pin until i felt ok with it and THEN i turned the whole pin until the blade opened smoothly. It seems to me as if the pivot pin is slightly out of center.:mad:

Just... what is the militec heat trick? :confused:

Thank you!!!
 
Try a fan, so the knife is warm. Some say, milli is better on warm material. Nothing more.
 
Some people say that militec works better when the surface is heated up -- i.e. a gun barrel after it's been fired a few times.

To this end, the Militec-1 trick involves using a hair dryer to warm up your friction surfaces before applying militec, then working the action, drying the excess off, and reheating the surface a few more times.

Some people say it's better than militec on a cold surface.

-j
 
i encountered the same problem with my MOD trident after i sent it for recoating with DLC
it appears the DLC forms a rather thick layer on the metal which has to be worked off at the pivot area with lots of elbow grease
my trident has a silky smooth action now, after 3 months
 
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