Modding 110 handle question

Joined
Jul 20, 2016
Messages
1,052
Hello all. I've accumulated a few 110's and 112's over the past year or so. I recently purchased a plain 110 with finger grooves, and was thinking about working on a few of the grooves (rounding out two sections).

Any suggestions for doing this with inexpensive hand tools or sand paper? Would wet sanding with 1500-2000 work to get the finish back after shaping with a higher grit? I also have a Craftsman rotary tool.

Related question, has anyone used "Bar Keepers Friend" for polishing the brass? If so, which version works best for Bucks?

Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions.
 
In creating finger grooves, I used a 1/2 round wood rasp file. I have the tapered wider one. When I got them close, I then wrapped sandpaper around the file and worked progressively finer.
Be careful using Bar Keepers as it has an acid in it that can eat at soft metal. I use Flitz with good success. Just a drop on a cloth and rub. DM
 
With regards to your polishing question I use Mothers Mag Polish and or good ole Brasso. Used to use Nevr-Dull too but that was a long time back. Probably still a good option unless they changed the way they make it.
 
I don't see how a rasp would work. Are you maybe confusing terms. A half round bastard or mill bastard would be what you need but if it is already finger grooved and you just want to improve it some sandpaper wrapped around a dowel or sharpie would do. I think 1500 and 200o is overkill if your working wood. If your going to hit the brass, maybe. Even on brass I sometimes stop at 1000.
 
I use a sanding drum in a drill press. They come in different diameters depending on how thick your fingers are.
 
Should have said the entire set of sanding drums came from harbor freight for under $10. They can be used in any electric drill.

I like to add one finger groove closer to the end of the bolster than the first finger groove on the standard finger groove model. This allows a deeper grip, and also acts like a guard. Similar to how a 112 is .

The one forward finger groove with light jimping on the blade spine makes for good control for fine work.

The one groove also locks into the crook of my thumb for a pencil grip, for real detail work like splinter removal.
 
Last edited:
Hello all. I've accumulated a few 110's and 112's over the past year or so. I recently purchased a plain 110 with finger grooves, and was thinking about working on a few of the grooves (rounding out two sections).

Scott321 -- Why are you rounding out two sections?
 
eveled, I see what your doing and nice work. I don't grip a 110 in that manner when removing it. Still, I see how it could help. And the front
finger groove as well. Good work. DM
 
Thanks, my 110's see a lot of use. Nice to have them just right. In the end they are just tools.
 
Scott321 -- Why are you rounding out two sections?

I have enough other versions of the 110 that I figured I would use this finger grooved 110 as a tester for handle mods. The way I hold the knife when using more secure grips would benefit from rounding the edges of the index and middle finger grooves (and maybe the spine side of the top bolster). The edges of the grooves on the ring and pinky finger work well for me.

I've made mods on a few other knives' handles with sandpaper, a file, and a rotary tool, but never on brass and dymondwood (Opinel, Zancudo, Onslaught, PM2). I just like the personalization for my particular hand or grip style, but don't like working on LE's without experience with a less expensive model first. It's more about in-hand feel for my particular uses than looks with my mods, and is relatively inexpensive if I can use the stock grips.

I can't post pictures here, but this is a link to show my 110 mods. https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=52670

Very nice! I keep wanting to get some checkering files for modding some other knives (and maybe try my hand at checkering some inexpensive wood 1911 grips), but haven't gotten around to it yet. Too many projects. :D
 
It's rewarding, but checkering wood is a different set of tools.
 
Work down to 1500 grit or so. If you don't have a bench grinder with a buffing wheel, melt a little bit of green polishing compound on a piece of cloth and get to work.
 
Back
Top