Modding a Delta Floor Metal Saw Tutorial

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Nov 7, 1999
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Hey Guys…

Here is a tutorial of how I Modded my Delta 4X6 Hori/Vert Floor metal bandsaw, to workbench mounted metal saw.…

delta1.jpg



It’s a Very easy conversion which took a total of about 2 hours to complete..
Including running around

This is a basic saw that runs normally in the horizontal position. It is a floor model type saw, so it’s far to low to work on.. This will solve that problem.

I’ve heard it referred to as a drop saw. This mod should work on any brand of saw, including Delta, Jet, King and a host of others…Inexpensive saw, around $300.00CDN

First thing to do is strip the base of it’s components…
Vise, threaded rod which adjusts the feed of the saw, spring, and most brackets ,,there are a few.(Keep the vise parts)

There is a small L shaped bracket that holds the saw in a temporary upright position.. Leave this on as it will hold the saw while you are working on it…

Unscrew the switch housing and push the switch inside. Remove the switch from it’s wires, via 2 screws.

The hardest part I found of this entire process was removing the grommet where the wiring runs through the base….

Once the base has been stripped,, remove the head unit, via a couple of bolts and a pivot rod. 10 mins and normal hand tools.

The part of the base that will be used is the head unit mount.. Save this part.

Now run out and find a shop that will chop the base off where you want it… Very easy to do with the right tools.. It could be done with another drop saw or industrial bandsaw..
Lots of places have these,, just a matter of looking around…
I guess it could also be torched off,, but that wouldn’t be as clean…

Once the base has been cut, it’s time to mount the head unit back in place….
Now the saw will want to fall over because there isn’t anything holding it the vertical position anymore, other than the small L bracket mentioned earlier..


There should be two parts to the vise.. One part was mounted to the base,, the other mounted to a threaded rod for tightening…

Use the small piece of vise to lock the saw in the upright position.. There are a few holes to drill.. Drilling this is smooth as butter.. Sharp drill bit and cordless drill did most of the work.

delta2.jpg


The arm that had the spring on it is bolted to this part of the base.. Tighten everything down, and you should have a wobble free saw in the upright position. A little grinding using an air grinder or Dremel is need here to fit everything in place…
Other materials can be used,, I just didn’t have anything kicking around,,so these parts were very handy to use.

Decide where you want the switch to be situated then drill it,, and reinstall the switch and switch plate.. Electric tape the switch contacts underneath.

delta6.jpg



Use the larger piece of the vise to close off the part that you cut off.. This is optional however it keeps crap from going in there and protects the switch.

delta3.jpg


You will find that once the saw is in the upright position, that the motor hangs down past the table top slightly…Lifting the saw up on blocks will allow the motor to sit properly..
In the picture below,, I just removed part of the bench. Bench was already to high for comfortable operation, so I couldn’t lift it any higher than it was..

delta5.jpg


The last thing to do is build a new work table for it…
Use the POS table that is provided as a template,, trace it out, cut our your new table out of some decent thickness plate steel,, drill the holes, and countersink. File smooth,, then throw the OEM table in the trash. Heavy sheet metal or thin plate steel can be found easily or can be made from something kicking around

delta4.jpg


Hope this helped you guys out,, any questions,, feel free to ask or write me.

ericn@mnsi.net

ttyle

Eric…
 
What, if any, features does the Delta have over the Harbor Freight saw? I know most companies just have a LITTLE bit better stand, than the flemsy HF saw, and a spiffier paint job. Is that all the Delta has over the HF saw?

One more thing,
Is the cut you made in the new table, to slide the blade in, the work of the Delta saw?
 
Hey Razor...

Yes the cut in the table is to remove the blade...
It's a little wider than it needs to be,, but it works....

As far as the same as the HF saw..
don't know,, haven't seen the HF saw,, but they are all basically the same...

Probably only a couple of different companies that make them,,Grey for Delta,, blue for someone else.. I doubt there is much if any differences in these saws...

ttyle

Eric...
 
Razor...

LOL..
What an A$$ I'am..

Yes I used the Delta with the original table to cut out the new table,, then threw the old one away...

ttyle

Eric...
 
Cool Eric! I ought to think about doing this to mine. I'll start with the flimsy work table which has been driving crazy since I got the thing. Of course, what I've been secretly holding out for is a Roll-in saw. :)
 
Do these saws come with a table or is that something that needs to be added? The HF saw I saw that runs under $200, or right aroundd there I think, didn't have a table on it, but I didn't know if it was in the box and hadn't been attached or if you need to do some modification later. If it is a mod, can you explain what goes into it to make something basic for cutting knife blanks? Also, I assume the blade moves slower on the metal cutting units. Can you cut Micarta, wood, G-10, etc on this setup or will it trash the material? If you can cut these things, do you need a blade with higher/lower tooth count, different configuration, or can you just cut anything with them?
 
Duh, just answered my own question. The HF model is currently $170 and does come with a table. The floor model at our local outlet doesn't have it attached.

Just looking at the pictures, the JET, which I found at www.arsaw.com for $262, looks exactly identical to the HF for $100 less.

Is there a preferable TPI and blade type for cutting tool steels? Can the same be used for titanium (which I know is usually friction cut by most people)?
 
Steve....

Yaa the tables that come with them are usually cheap a$$ pieces of crap..Use it as a template and make a new one...

I use 14TPI 1/2" blades...

Don't go with the cheap-o regular blades,,you'll burn them out..
Opt for good quality Bi-Metal or better blades...

Cut straight lines with them and they'll last longer..they don't like to cut corners well...

And yest they will cut most anything,,keep it running slow..Ti will eat a blade quickly,,as well as micarta and G10

ttyle

Eric..
 
Well guys,
I went to MSC today, and purchased the MSC version of this saw. So far, it seems like the nicest of them all, with the Jet being right beside it.
I will post results this evening or tomorrow.
 
Well Guys Normark and I boughthte same saw form the smae place fo ryself I looed at Harbour Freights.
The main difference for me at least was at the price after exchange and the trip tpo get it and the taxes to bring it back and the idea that if anyhthing went wrong with it it would be difficult to get servives I think it was more a matter of conveince more then anything else. The harbour freigh looked good but it was to much roublwe to get for the little differrence in price.

A
 
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