Modding my CS Pipe Hawk (build thread and advice request)

T

theTman1221

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Aug 14, 2014
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27
Well, I did some research and decided on a few things for my tomahawk, but could still use some tips and maybe inspiration and ideas for modding my pipe hawk.

So far I have stripped the head, filed the edges off the eye, and sanded the head a bit (still have a ways to go with that).
The handle has been sanded some, but will need a little more TLC before I stain and varnish it.

Things I plan to do:
Stain the handle with an old fashioned (read as: no polyurethane mixed in) dark mahogany stain (reddish dark brown but leaning more on the brown side)
Coat the handle in some polyurethane spar varnish made for outdoor use
Finish sanding the head smooth
Finish filing the eye edges and the inner surface of the eye
Boil the head in Heinz pure unfiltered apple cider vinegar (multiple times, scouring with steel wool between coats) until it is really dark gray (almost black)
Make a paracord grip, and overstrike guard that will also double as a way to help secure the head.

What I am debating on:
Whether to wood burn a pattern onto the handle either with a soldering iron or a fine detailing butane torch the size of a marker, or do both
What kind of burn patterns I would want to put on the handle
What color of paracord to use
What kind of rap pattern to use
Whether or not I should sand the hawk head smooth or leave it pitted.


I will get pics of things at a later date. I'm busy tonight.
 
The only things I would advise against is a varnish on the handle, it will crack and chip with hard use. I would recommend an oil finish, BLO feeds the wood and makes for quick and easy finish repairs. If you plan on throwing it a lot you may not want thick paracord, I use hockey tape for a slim grip surface that can slide through the hand easily when released and does not impede a natural rotation.

IMG_0293.jpg
 
can boiled linseed oil be applied over an old fashioned oil based stain? I only seem to see people using it straight on the stock handle without a stain. Also, I throw the tomahawk a lot, but I also use it to take down dead low hanging tree limbs and process smaller pieces of wood (such as dead thick branches) for small campfires in my backyard. Hockey tape looks too tacky for me.

Can anyone else chime in on how a tomahawk with a paracord grip behaves for throwing? What if I made a leather grip? Would that be better?
 
I would also strongly recommend that you skip the varnish (it makes the handle slippery not to mention many other negative effects). Any additional grip you think you need after using the handle without varnish, can be applied with wood burning techniques or simple carving or stippling.

When applying patina to the head look for the hamon line (differential heat treatment between the blade and the head, and also the pole and the head). You can clean this up or choose to leave it, has its a nice illustration that you have a differentially heat-treated head.

Anything you choose to add to the handle that increases the diameter will impede your ability to remove the head from the haft (handle), not good considering the Tomahawks design which allows easy removal of the head from the haft. Being able to quickly and easily remove the head has a significant advantage of a tomahawk for many reasons.

Throw away the Allen set screw for the head, and do a little research on how to properly fit head to haft. After the poly is removed from the handle, the head is going to need to ride up the haft 1/4 - 3/8", so you're going to need to know how to properly fit the head.

If you think you need an overstrike wrap, make it such that it easy to install and remove. Cross thread cinch securement like a lady's corset. Personally I think it's much easier just to have an extra handle or two just in case.

I currently have 4 Hawks in project stages right now. All my Hawks are choppers & throwers, and I use the heads off the handles as hand blades.

If you plan to use yours it as a thrower, I suggest you learn first throw it with a full length handle (22") before you decide to maybe cut it down in length (+/- 20"). My Pipe-Hawks throw nicely at 12 paces (36'). Frontier-Hawks throw little shorter because of lighter weight & resultant faster rotation. Lighter weight Frontier-Hawks respond OK to a little shorter handles (18-20").

Also, buy some extra handles and pre-fit them to the head b-4 you need them.

Have fun, it's addicting.

Few pic examples:

http://instagram.com/p/mPEtdtTNHy/

http://instagram.com/p/mPE_luTNH-/

http://instagram.com/p/mRVQ2DTNHq/

http://instagram.com/p/sBsEKFzNL4/
 
Also, very important detail I almost forgot which should be done right after disposing on the allen-set-screw. Remove the head and ease the inside edge of the head eye (slightly radius the sharp edges inside the eye). Otherwise every handle comes out of my head it's going to make cut damages to the haft (1" - 4" below the seat location). If/when handle pops out during throwing these gashes can be over 1/4" deep ). The eased edges also allow the head to fit quickly and securely into position. I've never really seen any video is for discussion about this but it's high on the importance list in my mind.

Regards,
 
I took the set screw off the first day I had it. I had read ahead of time about how stupid it was. I have filed the edges of the eye some, and plan to do more before I call it good. I also sanded the handle when I first got it and got the head to fit fairly well. I can even throw it more than once without tapping the head on tighter.

I've been throwing it with the 22 inch handle and even my first hour of throwing it I was sticking it nearly every time. I now fairly rarely fail to stick it. I don't plan to chop the handle down.

I had been debating on whether to make a grip at the expense of being able to remove the head. I guess paracord isn't really needed. The over-strike wrap I talked about wasn't so much for keeping the head on as it was going to be for over-strike protection as I put a few little dents in the handle when doing some light chopping on dead branches prepping for a camp fire in my yard (don't worry, I live in the country and have a lawful fire pit). I think I might buy a second handle to do all my staining and wood burning work on. I'll keep the current handle for a backup.

One question I do have. How fine of a grit can I sand the handle with before it starts interfering with stain absorption. I seem to remember something from my woodworking class about too fine of a sanded finish impeding stain absorption.

Also, does anyone have advice on resurfacing the head (meaning grinding away til' the pitting is gone). I need a method that doesn't require power tools or sand blasting. I've tried a 100 grit sanding sponge pad (only like 1/4 inch of foam backing, maybe less). I've also tried a small flat file. The flat file does take the metal down to a smooth surface, but the blade face seems higher around the edges and drops down a bit in the middle leading to me having to grind away at the outer edges until it planes down to meet the central area of the blade face. I have a few different grades of steel wool, but I have my doubts about it being able to resurface steel so I didn't try.
 
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