Modding the Manix 2 XL - will it work?

[David Mary]

I have called Spyderco today to ask to talk to someone in warranty about this, not because I think the mod might not void the warranty (it definitely will - but I am sure I voided the warranty already!), but because I wonder if this mod will ruin the knife. Unfortunately I did not get a hold of anyone, so I left a voicemail, but thought it would make sense to ask my question here as well:

I am interested in regrinding my Manix 2 XL blade to remove the choil altogether and bring the plunge grind all the way back to the first "jimp" of the choil. The CBBL in the Manix 2 XL seems to rely on two points of contact in the closed position, namely the cutout in the tang against the ball bearing, and the nub between the choil and the edge against the backspacer. I realize that doing regrind this will remove the point of contact between the choil nub and the backspacer, and presumably increase the force applied to the ball bearing when the knife is closed. But I don't know if that will cause problems, such as deformation of the ball bearing, or gross lock failure.

Has anyone done this mod, or does anyone know enough about the tolerances in the 2 XL's CBBL, to say to be able to say whether this mod will leave the integrity of the lock intact enough to continue operating reliably, and without allowing the cutting edge to contact the lanyard tube, pillars or backspacer?

Thanks!

P.S. I bought it used, and have already modded the blade shape, removed rings from the lock spring, reground the bevels thinner and modified the handle profile, so this knife is definitely no longer under warranty.



Concept I want to do:

 

[David Mary]

After reading this, I've decided to just go for it. If I end up needing to replace the ball bearing once in a while, now I know I can.
https://forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=56079

 

[sgt1372]

You are a knife maker, right?

You already know what you have planned will void the warranty but I assume that you have the skill, knowledge and ability to make it work.

Good luck and let us know how it goes. If sucessful, it may generate some business 4u

 

[David Mary]

Thanks for the reply. Sure, if nothing else it's fun to play show and tell with sharp things!

Lock spring clipped down by a couple rings to reduce tension, blade reground to full length cutting edge and reprofiled similarly to the Spyderco Military, and handle reprofiled to be more neutral. Was black coated blade, but I polished most of the coating off the tang to reduce friction between it and the washers; I also polished the inside of the liners by the pivot. I sharpened the edge to 15° per side with a 20° micro, and with my regrind it is ~.0012" behind the edge. The knife is comfortable, smooth and sharp and I love it.

 

[Bigfattyt]

Nice

 

[Bastler]

Well done. I'm always in favor of minimizing the ricasso in favor of increasing the cutting edge.

 

[MarkN86]

I had my "Why's" but dang that looks great.

 

[David Mary]

Thank you kindly! I haven't gotten around to cleaning up the G10 scales where the choil used to be yet, but I'm sure I'll get to it eventually. I'll post a pic when I do.

 

[jacksterp]

WOW - that looks as if it came from the factory!

 

[David Mary]

jacksterp

Much too kind! Not sure that I would have said that myself, but I was able to justify some time to work on it some more today. I also felt the bevel grind could come further back without detriment to the lock function, so that is just what I did, along with a bit more finishing on the scales.

 

[jacksterp]

You are going to make Sal jealous, if he isn't already.

 

[David Mary]

Haha, he can have whatever knife he wants! I wish that Spyderco made more knives within the motif of the Resilience, particularly: 1) Big, 2) with tough steel, 3) full length cutting edge, and 4) a handle that lets you safely get your hand right next to the start of the cutting edge. The only other one I can think of is the Caribbean, which I also own and love. But I own 5 Resiliences for a reason.