Model 14

chairman moe

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2000
Messages
260
Ok, the bug has bit....after having my model 1 (5" blade) for a couple of months, I want another Randall. I think I am imterested in the model 14. Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of such a large knife? Is the handle (finger grip) to big or uncomfortable? What are some good options for this type of knife (handle or hilt)? I really like my model 1, bit I don't think it would be very pratical for heavy chopping (fire starting or shelter building). Any thoughts on the CDT or would you avoid it? Anybody with a model 15?
 
I have only one Randall right now (three more are on the way in a few years), and it is a Mod 14 tha my parents got for me for graduation. It has the forward curved double hilt, single finger grip, and is stainles. I love the knife. a great, well balanced design. Some people think it is too heavy, but they say the same thing aobut the M14 (I am 6'3", 230 so it suits me jsut fine). Unlike most Randall designs, the Mods 14 and 15 are full tang. If you want a lighter knife, go with the 14 or 15 CDT (cut down tang). they are durable knives in their own rihgt, and a few ounces lighter. The sheath provided is exceptional, too. I love my 14 so mucht aht I wear it around the house (when i am at home). I plan to use it as my primary Combat/utility knife once I get commissioned.
 
Chairman moe, I think a model 14 is a great field knife. I have, used, a full tang with finger grip [the standard configuration] and it will handle the tough stuff. My 14 with a CDT feels lighter but really havn't used it near as much [mostly when walking and not cutting].The CDT will probably handle the tough stuff just as well but, when chopping, digging, or hacking through the bush, added "heft" in the knife can be advantageous. The finger grooves may not be the best for all around function, but when fatique sets in, the handle will not slip out of your hands. My CDT has the Border patrol grip and feels better to me. Now on the otherhand, a model 15 with a CDT is just the tickect for a comfortable carry knife. It is just a tad larger than the model 5 or 1, [5 or 6 inch blade] without being "bulky". The size of a model 15 would make a better "outdoor" knife but the 14 will make a better combat "field" knife IMO. Try to find someone with the two grip styles. The handles change the "feel" in the knife even though they are the same model.
To add some more confusion, I like the model 16 much better. There is a "special fighter" a cross between the model 16 dive knife, and a model 14. I have never handled a special fighter, but I think my buddy, Melvin Purvis has one. Try asking him or just wait I think he'll be happy to add some info. All the best.
 
Would be complete without at least one model 14.....

If you've looking for a heavy-duty outdoors knife, but one that was compact and easily transportable, I'd look at having a model 19 built for you with no thumb grooves on the top, a double hilt and then whatever other options you'd like....this makes a really nice, compact knife that would most certainly work as a "combat" piece if the need were to arise...I saw some in Vietnam...

;)
 
My first look at the Randall forum. Have to comment on the 14. I broke one of those.
After a four day walk in the woods, stripping my gear in a tent erected over a concrete slab, took the knife off my belt, still in the sheath, and dropped it. SNAP!! Right in front of the hilt.
Not knocking Randall in any way. They sent me another one. Just very suprised.
This was in 1967. Maybe the steel was different then.
Just goes to show that even the best products can fail.:)
 
I have heard a lot of great things about the Model 16 in standard configuration. It has a 7" blade instead of 7 1/2" and is overall just a bit smaller and lighter weight than the 14 without compromising its strength. The absence of the top guard is what attracts me unless you need it as a combat knife. IMO, I like its looks better as well.
 
Originally posted by navajo
... took the knife off my belt, still in the sheath, and dropped it. SNAP!! Right in front of the hilt. ...
This must hold the record for most brittle blade to leave Tampa. I too have trouble believing. Does that mean ...

I really like my Mod 14. Mine is tool steel and parkerized. It is not a pretty knife, but it's extremely sharp (the false edge is not false) and holds that edge very well. It is heavier than my other fixed blades but I'm not concerned about it failing at a time I most need it.
I really like my model 1, bit I don't think it would be very pratical for heavy chopping (fire starting or shelter building).
I don't make a habit of using any knife for chopping; I have a Hudson Bay axe for chopping. But I will have the Mod 14 with me when I am away from all those other heavier tools and in an emergency situation it could do some chopping.
 
If Navajo says he dropped his knife on concrete and it broke,
I believe him. It could happen.

My nephew has a model 16 special fighter with the full finger
grip handle. My hands are on the light side of medium and the handle fits me fine. The nephew is six feet and over 200 and he likes the fit too. The knife feels lighter than it looks. Too light for a chopper.

The most important consideration is whether or not you just want a model 14.
 
Wasn't knocking Randall in any way. The knife did snap. Jimmy Lyle dropped one of his at a show once and the thing broke into many pieces.
Got a Pacific Cullery Custom Balisong years ago that I had to send back. Tang pin was inserted half way. Picked up a Winchester 101 skeet gun that had so much chrome in the chambers you could not load a shell in either.

This stuff does happen, just not very often.
:)
 
Navajo, usually when a knife blade snaps as you describe it is because of faulty heat treating. One of the mod. 25s that we used in the shop for molding the sheaths that we send to RMK dropped to the floor onto a rubber fatigue mat and snapped just as yours did. We sent it back to the shop and Gary told us that the heat treating was bad and that it does happen sometimes. We had another time where we sent a knife back to a customer in a sheath and with no outward appearing damage to the box it arrived at the customers house snapped at the hilt. We sent it back to ths shop and Gary said again that that one had a bad heat treating and immediately replaced the knife at no charge. Greg
 
Navajo, usually when a knife blade snaps as you describe it is because of faulty heat treating. One of the mod. 25s that we used in the shop for molding the sheaths that we send to RMK dropped to the floor onto a rubber fatigue mat and snapped just as yours did. We sent it back to the shop and Gary told us that the heat treating was bad and that it does happen sometimes. We had another time where we sent a knife back to a customer in a sheath and with no outward appearing damage to the box it arrived at the customers house snapped at the hilt. We sent it back to ths shop and Gary said again that that one had a bad heat treating and immediately replaced the knife at no charge. Greg
 
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