- Joined
- Nov 18, 2010
- Messages
- 6,118
We mod our knives. If it says BK&T on it, we generally have a propensity to modify the heck out of it. Some are more extreme, but some are fairly standard for how we progress with a particular given mod. Many of us have tried many different things, and along the way have failed or not achieved what we set out to do. Sometimes we have stumbled into new methods that are better, easier, faster, etc... but at the end of the day, that knowledge is spread about and not as readily available as if it was in one place. So I propose we stick that info here and attempt to consolidate our experiences, making it easier for new people to follow in our footsteps or at the very least show others what works, what doesn't, and what is the best way to achieve your modification goals. In the spirit of sharing, I will post my ideas here that I have been using for various things. (My suggestions will lend themselves towards precision in the application of mods, easy reproduction, and the use of few if any power tools as many of us do not have ready access to belt sanders, drill presses, and the like.)
1. Jimping
I have OCD, and certain things have to be a certain way or I feel downright unpleasant. Jimping has been one of the more common mods, however few people seem to be able to achieve an even spread with the notches carved into the knife. While I haven't yet tested it, I have a theory on how to achieve uniform results with readily available, low cost tools that I think *should* work fairly easily and allow for easily reproduced results from one person to the next.
Jimping has many flavors, ranging from a saw blade looking pattern, to a series of half circles, to straight gaps carved in with a dremel. For me personally the straight cuts into the steel give me the type of jimping that I find to be the best in terms of grip, which is why I go for the jimping in the first place. My proposed method is as follows:
Using a miter box (if you don't know what a miter box is, here is a link to one: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Produ...UTF8&qid=1352650665&sr=8-3&keywords=miter+box) and a hacksaw, one should be able to make perfectly even cuts into the back of a knife for purpose of jimping on a straight or slightly curved surface. To do so, I would take a knife (in this example I will pretend we are doing this with a BK14) and screw it to a piece of wood, more than likely a 1"x1" piece approximately 4-5" long. I would screw the knife to the block of wood such that the spine is upward and the edge of the blade is pointed towards the table or ground. I would make certain the knife was attached to the wood in such a manner as to allow the knife block to move freely along one edge of the miter box without interfering with the hacksaw blade or handle. I would screw the knife to the block of wod in such a manner that the spine extended up past the top of the wooden block to the maximum depth that I would like the jimping to extend (approximately 2-3mm). Next, I would then use another block of wood that was of the appropriate width to put the knife in line with where I wanted to begin my cut with the hacksaw. This piece, when in place, would then be clamped in place using a large c-clamp or speed clamp. Then, I would clamp the knife block in place, and make my cuts using the 90° section of the miter box. Once the cut was as deep as I would like (in this scenario the top of the wooden block), I would then use a very specific width item for shims, placing as many as two or three in place between the knife block and the stopper block that is already clamped into the miter box. In this case I would use large size washers, as one or two should make for a perfect distance between cuts in the jimping. Rinse, repeat until you have the amount of jimping you would like, then go back and check to make sure all cuts are to the depth you want and cleanly done. I think this should work, although depending on the knife material a hacksaw may not be the best tool for the job. (They do make different types of hacksaw blades though.) All that needs to be done is in-between each cut add the same amount of shim pieces (washers in my example) to achieve perfect uniform distance between cuts. This could be adapted to a half circle type of jimping if you spaced accordingly to give you enough space to use a chainsaw file. The idea is of course to remove as many variables as possible, and with the method of being able to duplicate your distance easily between the cuts and clamping the item to the miter box you are removing almost all variables in regard to spacing.
2. Stripping
This thread by Oregon Fal'er is the bible for good coating removal as far as I am concerned. I don't do the extended pommel/tang thing though, and I hang the knife up with the stripper on it with the point down using the lanyard hole at the bottom, but otherwise, this is the method I use and it works. Peace of mind is good, especially in a bad situation. I wasn't able to find the tape he used, electrical tape worked just as well though.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...de-while-leaving-the-coating-under-the-scales
3. Patina
I don't have a really big preference for fancy patterns or things of that nature anymore. In my mind, the only reason the patina exists is to protect the now stripped blade from rust. With the new tweener coatings, I gotta get that stuff off of there cause it is grippy as heck. With the old coating, it really depends on the application, but for any stripped knife, my goal is to keep it from deeply rusting and pitting and thus harming the blade. Superficial rust is fine, it comes off with use and/or a quick wipe with a cloth, but the deep stuff, we don't want that. My method is to use PCB Etchant from Radio Shack. My method is pretty simple too. 1 part of PCB etchant to 4 parts very hot water, in a glass that is deep enough to completely cover the blade with the amount of liquid I am using. I will then place the knife blade first into the solution in the glass, then walk away for five minutes. With a BK&T knife, I notice a huge difference when I come back after that first dunk. Then I remove the knife, rinse it very liberally in warm water, then take a tooth brush with dish soap on it and clean the heck out of it. Rinse it very well a second time, dry it off, then dunk it again for another five minutes. I will do this maybe 3-5 times depending on how dark I am shooting for. The patina is a surface coating though, so keep that in mind. It will come off, there is no permanent way to coat the knife that will stand up to everything you use.
So, all that said, what methods have worked best for you? What products do you use, and do they work better or worse than any others?
1. Jimping
I have OCD, and certain things have to be a certain way or I feel downright unpleasant. Jimping has been one of the more common mods, however few people seem to be able to achieve an even spread with the notches carved into the knife. While I haven't yet tested it, I have a theory on how to achieve uniform results with readily available, low cost tools that I think *should* work fairly easily and allow for easily reproduced results from one person to the next.
Jimping has many flavors, ranging from a saw blade looking pattern, to a series of half circles, to straight gaps carved in with a dremel. For me personally the straight cuts into the steel give me the type of jimping that I find to be the best in terms of grip, which is why I go for the jimping in the first place. My proposed method is as follows:
Using a miter box (if you don't know what a miter box is, here is a link to one: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Produ...UTF8&qid=1352650665&sr=8-3&keywords=miter+box) and a hacksaw, one should be able to make perfectly even cuts into the back of a knife for purpose of jimping on a straight or slightly curved surface. To do so, I would take a knife (in this example I will pretend we are doing this with a BK14) and screw it to a piece of wood, more than likely a 1"x1" piece approximately 4-5" long. I would screw the knife to the block of wood such that the spine is upward and the edge of the blade is pointed towards the table or ground. I would make certain the knife was attached to the wood in such a manner as to allow the knife block to move freely along one edge of the miter box without interfering with the hacksaw blade or handle. I would screw the knife to the block of wod in such a manner that the spine extended up past the top of the wooden block to the maximum depth that I would like the jimping to extend (approximately 2-3mm). Next, I would then use another block of wood that was of the appropriate width to put the knife in line with where I wanted to begin my cut with the hacksaw. This piece, when in place, would then be clamped in place using a large c-clamp or speed clamp. Then, I would clamp the knife block in place, and make my cuts using the 90° section of the miter box. Once the cut was as deep as I would like (in this scenario the top of the wooden block), I would then use a very specific width item for shims, placing as many as two or three in place between the knife block and the stopper block that is already clamped into the miter box. In this case I would use large size washers, as one or two should make for a perfect distance between cuts in the jimping. Rinse, repeat until you have the amount of jimping you would like, then go back and check to make sure all cuts are to the depth you want and cleanly done. I think this should work, although depending on the knife material a hacksaw may not be the best tool for the job. (They do make different types of hacksaw blades though.) All that needs to be done is in-between each cut add the same amount of shim pieces (washers in my example) to achieve perfect uniform distance between cuts. This could be adapted to a half circle type of jimping if you spaced accordingly to give you enough space to use a chainsaw file. The idea is of course to remove as many variables as possible, and with the method of being able to duplicate your distance easily between the cuts and clamping the item to the miter box you are removing almost all variables in regard to spacing.
2. Stripping
This thread by Oregon Fal'er is the bible for good coating removal as far as I am concerned. I don't do the extended pommel/tang thing though, and I hang the knife up with the stripper on it with the point down using the lanyard hole at the bottom, but otherwise, this is the method I use and it works. Peace of mind is good, especially in a bad situation. I wasn't able to find the tape he used, electrical tape worked just as well though.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...de-while-leaving-the-coating-under-the-scales
3. Patina
I don't have a really big preference for fancy patterns or things of that nature anymore. In my mind, the only reason the patina exists is to protect the now stripped blade from rust. With the new tweener coatings, I gotta get that stuff off of there cause it is grippy as heck. With the old coating, it really depends on the application, but for any stripped knife, my goal is to keep it from deeply rusting and pitting and thus harming the blade. Superficial rust is fine, it comes off with use and/or a quick wipe with a cloth, but the deep stuff, we don't want that. My method is to use PCB Etchant from Radio Shack. My method is pretty simple too. 1 part of PCB etchant to 4 parts very hot water, in a glass that is deep enough to completely cover the blade with the amount of liquid I am using. I will then place the knife blade first into the solution in the glass, then walk away for five minutes. With a BK&T knife, I notice a huge difference when I come back after that first dunk. Then I remove the knife, rinse it very liberally in warm water, then take a tooth brush with dish soap on it and clean the heck out of it. Rinse it very well a second time, dry it off, then dunk it again for another five minutes. I will do this maybe 3-5 times depending on how dark I am shooting for. The patina is a surface coating though, so keep that in mind. It will come off, there is no permanent way to coat the knife that will stand up to everything you use.
So, all that said, what methods have worked best for you? What products do you use, and do they work better or worse than any others?
