Modified Buck 110's

eveled

eveled

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Joined
Mar 11, 2016
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I had to buy a checkering file for another project, now that it is done I used the file on my 2 EDC 110's. I'm pleased with the results, even though I know jimping is not everybody's cup of tea. It is much shallower than the factory Jimping I have seen. Jimping on the blade I can take or leave, but on the lock button it makes a big difference.


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I wore out my two other 110's, and these are the replacements.
 
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The finger groove one the lock completely wore out. You can close it like a Swiss army knife. The other one in all fairness is probable only half worn out. I wasn't going to bother sending them to Buck, but when I bought the broken 111, I figured I'd send all three back at once. I'm still waiting for their return.
 
eveled, welcome to the Buck Forum. This is the first I've heard of a lock 'wearing out'. What did you use to grind those blades down? Also, what did you use to pry apart the rear of your 2nd four dot? DM
 
Thanks for the welcome. The worn out lock is the reason I joined the forum, instead of lurking. I wanted to warn others to check their locks.

The lock just wore out, one day I realized the button was no longer necessary to close the knife. It could have been like that for months, I have no idea.

No grinder used, just daily use for a long time. Although the one sharpening choil is a little deep.

The finger groove with the recessed rivet was a mystery to me. The knife was still tight, not opened up at all, the rivet just sunk.

The toughest thing those two knives ever cut was an electrical tie wrap. No abuse just lots of use, over a 30+ year period.

I had a hard time sending them in for sentimental reasons. But I knew it made no sense to keep worn out knives around when I could put them back in service.

I found the broken 111 on eBay, placed a really low bid, and told myself if I won it, I would reblade the other two. Three knives for one shipping charge.

I have no regrets, seeing them with brand new blades made my day.
 
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eveled said:
Thanks for the welcome. The worn out lock is the reason I joined the forum, instead of lurking. I wanted to warn others to check their locks.

The lock just wore out, one day I realized the button was no longer necessary to close the knife. It could have been like that for months, I have no idea.

No grinder used, just daily use for a long time. Although the one sharpening choil is a little deep.

The finger groove with the recessed rivet was a mystery to me. The knife was still tight, not opened up at all, the rivet just sunk.

The toughest thing those two knives ever cut was an electrical tie wrap. No abuse just lots of use, over a 30+ year period.

I had a hard time sending them in for sentimental reasons. But I knew it made no sense to keep worn out knives around when I could put them back in service.

I found the broken 111 on eBay, placed a really low bid, and told myself if I won it, I would reblade the other two. Three knives for one shipping charge.

I have no regrets, seeing them with brand new blades made my day.
Click to expand...

The lock on mine is like that. It takes slightly more pressure to close than a slip joint, but not much more. I have thought about sending it in. But I'm afraid I will loose all the hard earned character the knife has developed over the years. How did yours turn out? I have known for a long time that the lock was not to be trusted. Still I was a little surprised, a few months back, to find out how easy it was to close against the lock. And how strong the lock on the new knife I was comparing it to was.

David Martin, I'm thinking the 440C steel of the blade must be harder than the steel the lockbar is made from. So on a knife that is used a lot, over a long time, the tab on the end of the lockbar wears down. On my knife, as best I can measure, about 1/16 inch has worn off the tab on the lockbar.

O.B.
 
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All three came out beautiful I'm very glad I did it. Best $20 I ever spent.

The brass ones must be dimensionally smaller now, they buffed out all the dents and dings, some were pretty deep. If you want to keep the character, tell them not to remove the dings.
 
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After using them for a little while, I have to say that the jimping on the lock button has really impressed me. It helps when I push the button, but it helps even more when I pull the knife out of the sheath. When working I use gloves, and they are slippery when oily. My thumb is on the lock button when pulling the knife from the sheath, the extra traction is very noticable.
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Hard to believe such a small change, can make such a big difference. The jimping on the spine, I am completely neutral on. Doesn't bother me, but I'm not sure it has helped either.
 
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I don't use that grip to remove my knife from the sheath. And who cut the divots in the blades at the plunge line? DM
 
I been wondering when somebody would mention the sharpening choils. One went a little deep.
 
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