Modified Mora Classic #1

[jmflem]

I posted this thread a few days ago:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1194534-Best-knife-for-under-20-IMO

And said I'd post pics of the mods I made to my Mora Classic #1. I tried to force a patina with oranges, but it didn't turn out the way I l would of liked it to be, so I sanded it off and attempted to hand polish it myself. Here are the pictures.

 

[machineage]

I like it! the distressed wood handle looks cool as hell. If you want a nice patina on the blade, just put the in a glass vinegar for 90mins. or so, then apply yellow mustard kind of thick, let on for 3 to 4 hours; wash with warm water. Makes a really nice patina. Good luck.

 

[AreBeeBee]

I feel a whole lot better looking at your knife's handle. The one I tried to stain came out looking, well, let's just call it "mottled." I sanded it thoroughly to remove the factory finish, but I suspect either the wood has patches where the grain is tighter (thus less accepting of stain) — or I simply didn't get all the factory finish off the wood.

It was discouraging, so I set the project aside a couple months ago and haven't returned to it. I think I will now.

The leather sheath also needs a good dark stain, but having worked some mink oil into it already without darkening the leather appreciably, I'm guessing that's a hopeless cause. Too much schtuff on top of the original leather finish to do any staining with it now.

Thoughts are drifting toward paint. House paint... Maybe brown ink? Sand the daylights out of the leather to take off the surface finish, then try again...? Anyway, the sheath is separate problem from the knife handle —

Afterthought: I patinated a Schrade (USA) H-15 fixed blade by cleaning the blade with lighter fluid, letting it dry, then immersing just the blade into a large mason jar filled with microwave-heated vinegar straight from the jug. Gave it a nice patina in about 30 seconds, so don't walk away. Just keep watching until the "color" is right, then rinse under tap water.

 

[jmflem]

Thanks for the info on forcing a patina. I'm afraid I can't do it now though, because I gave this knife to a buddy of mine . I may try forcing a patina again in the future on another knife though.

 

[AreBeeBee]

Thanks for the info on forcing a patina. I'm afraid I can't do it now though, because I gave this knife to a buddy of mine . A may try forcing a patina again in the future on another knife though.

From what I read here at BF, there are two schools. One school uses a carbon steel blade for whatever tasks it's needed for, and the patina develops naturally over time and use. The other approach is to force it.

The appeal of the first approach is that it produces a result with loads of character and history that some feel is more authentic and perhaps even more honest. I don't disagree with that, but I tend toward impatience. Also I don't do a lot of food prep, which would bring the carbon blades into frequent contact with things that would develop a natural patina.

So I opted for the forced approach to get the protection. (Patina will help prevent rusting.) I read at BF about several ways to force the patina, but vinegar appeared to be the key ingredient and I figured I'd start with that. In addition, heat usually makes chemical reactions go faster, so I put a jarful of vinegar into the microwave, hit 45 seconds, then gave it some seconds more to bring it up to hot (but not boiling).

I put the cleaned blade into the vinegar and saw the darkening start right away. I kept it in the vinegar until it reached a medium gray overall. Then ran the blade under the tap, and called the job done.

Now there are different grades of carbon steel, and they may react differently. And degrees of heat treating may make a difference, too. I don't know. This was a fast-and-dirty approach but it worked, and I'd start with it again next time I need to patinate a blade. All this is to say that you may get different results, so let's call it the YOYO method (You're On Your Own).