- Joined
- Apr 19, 2005
- Messages
- 5,533
After holding the one blade Buck 301 solitare, I was considering other knives shown on theTraditional forum. Several other companies had two blade knives with a clip and warcliff blade. Since I have not 'spayed', an animal in a number of years and seldom used a spey blade I then considered, we ought to have two blade Buck 301 and 303 stockmen, sans spey blade.
So I shipped off a Dymondwood scaled 301 and 303 to a Buck knife guy and asked the spey blade be removed. After a good period waiting in the work line I received back my modified two blade 301 and 303 .
Here is a bottom shot with a regular 301 on the left, my two blade in the middle and a single blade Solitare on right.
They also trimmed down the Buck Sheepsfoot blade, to look somewhat like a warcliff blade. Modified blade on left, normal on right. The nail nic limits what you are able to take off, in the effort to trim the end to a warcliff-like point.
After receiving the knives I felt the blade kicks could be shortened to give the knife a cleaner, more linear look. So, I carefully ground and polished them myself. I carefully watched the closed blade depth, so as not to bottom out. I tried to go to the level that the nail nic was just a hair above the liner edge.
After photographing these pictures, I now think the main clip blade could be lowered so very slightly to even improve the line somemore. I really like the width of these knives. I hope someone from Buck will consider this alternative, hey maybe I need to send one to Joe Houser in Buck Customer Service to carry around.....
I may get excited enough and take some time and put some burl wood or jigged bone scales on these and carry one of them proudly as "exclusive" models.....
I lowered the clip blades in the blade well using the same careful process. I kept the nics above the liners, I wanted the top of the curve of the 'speycliff' blade and the top of the clip angle almost level.
Here is the 301 and 303, got a good level on the 303 but stopped a little short with the 301. I may can go down level but need to get a strong light and look down in blade well to check situation out.
Here is a end shot of of the same. Tweaking the kicks on the blades lowers the "push" from the angles in the palm of your hand, actually your fingers. This is hand fitting work, a factory would have to charge a bunch for this if they tried it on every high production knife.
300Bucks/ch
So I shipped off a Dymondwood scaled 301 and 303 to a Buck knife guy and asked the spey blade be removed. After a good period waiting in the work line I received back my modified two blade 301 and 303 .
Here is a bottom shot with a regular 301 on the left, my two blade in the middle and a single blade Solitare on right.
They also trimmed down the Buck Sheepsfoot blade, to look somewhat like a warcliff blade. Modified blade on left, normal on right. The nail nic limits what you are able to take off, in the effort to trim the end to a warcliff-like point.
After receiving the knives I felt the blade kicks could be shortened to give the knife a cleaner, more linear look. So, I carefully ground and polished them myself. I carefully watched the closed blade depth, so as not to bottom out. I tried to go to the level that the nail nic was just a hair above the liner edge.
After photographing these pictures, I now think the main clip blade could be lowered so very slightly to even improve the line somemore. I really like the width of these knives. I hope someone from Buck will consider this alternative, hey maybe I need to send one to Joe Houser in Buck Customer Service to carry around.....
I may get excited enough and take some time and put some burl wood or jigged bone scales on these and carry one of them proudly as "exclusive" models.....
I lowered the clip blades in the blade well using the same careful process. I kept the nics above the liners, I wanted the top of the curve of the 'speycliff' blade and the top of the clip angle almost level.
Here is the 301 and 303, got a good level on the 303 but stopped a little short with the 301. I may can go down level but need to get a strong light and look down in blade well to check situation out.
Here is a end shot of of the same. Tweaking the kicks on the blades lowers the "push" from the angles in the palm of your hand, actually your fingers. This is hand fitting work, a factory would have to charge a bunch for this if they tried it on every high production knife.
300Bucks/ch
Last edited:
